I just finished the installation of 5 Model A wheels on my 27 Model T Coupe. Thought You'd like to see the outcome. Thanks to all of you that helped me with information on building he adapters and my friend Dennis helping with the machining. Bob
Hello Bob: Looks great - however what does the License plate say front? Is that a plate for the front of the car????
Yes Bill, In 1926 Tennessee offered 2 plates for each registration. One for the front and the back. I only have the front one but it made no difference in my state when I registered it to my car. IT's a great conversational point. Someone always catches it. I was going to paint over the word Front but decided to leave it be. Bob
Nice. Did you plug weld the hubs and redrill for a 5 bolt pattern? Would like to see a picture from the back side if possible. Thanks.
Just drilled mine
Send me pm can't post pics here
Tell those who point it out that the car only can be driven legally in reverse.
Colin, No I did not plug the unused holes. The hubs could still be used for 6 bolt pattern at 5 1/2 c/c. When painted black, hard to see. Bob
Good looking job, nice installation.
I used 5x4.5 to 5x5.5 adapters on the front this allowed more meat around the new holes
They look good.
How are these adapters different to the ones offered by the suppliers?
Can Model A wheels take wider tyres? What the main advantage in using them?
Mine differ as I have drill the hub to mount them the ones from the supply erstwhile use the 6 spoke flanges holes
The one like these are aluminum one piece the others are three pieces of steel screwed together
Constantine, These adapters only cost $108 US.
They take 28-29 model A wheels which are 21" and run the 4.5 wide model T tires. The main advantage is the cost of model A wheels compared to model T wire wheels. I bought 7 model A wheels for $100. Model T wire wheels run about $75 each if in good condition. There was no modifications to the aluminum adapters which I purchased. I drilled the front hubs and rear drums and hubs to match the 5x5 pattern of the adapter. I hope this answers your question. Bob
Bob, I think as I mentioned in a previous thread, I too used those adapters on my doodlebug to mount some '35 Chevy truck wheels I had. The only thing I can suggest, unless you have the capabilities of being super accurate in the drilling and hold tight tolerances, was that I used two 1/4" roll pins as locators for the adapters to made sure it stayed center. The holes go through the hub and aluminum adapter and they are approximately 180 degrees apart, by slightly offset so they only go on one way if they ever need to be taken apart.
If I had made adaptors to use on T wood wheel hubs, I would have tried to make the center hole in the adaptors small enough to be a tight fit to the hub, like the outer plates that holds the Hickory spokes. The inner flange isn't dimensioned to take all the forces from the wheel.
The 26/27 wire wheel hubs has a slightly thicker inner flange and the T wires goes very tight to the hub to get some additional support, but still they crack sometimes (ok, mostly on overloaded and unmaintenanced haywagons, but still..)
My 4 adapters spin within .006 and I'm sure the wheels are nowhere close to that tolerance when brand new.
Roger, After reading your comments I'd like to ad the following as I understand it. The forces you mention are directed at the hub at about 349 deg when the wheel is spinning at 63 mph and there is an axel load of around 1750 lbs. Since my coupe's total weight is about 1500 lbs, the single axel load is really not a factor. My tire track is within 1/2 inch of stock wood wheels
I'm going on 2 more long tours this year and will tear everything down this winter to inspect adapters and see if they have moved out of tolerance of .006. I can always ad the pins at a later date if need be. I really do appreciate your input and suggestions.
I had 6 hubs all had different Dia and radiouse were the spokes sit
I seal mine with RTV and back filled with resign
Like bob my run out is less then .007 better the the wheels I had mounted
When we made adapters for a friend of mine we bored the centers of the adapter plates to a very close fit on the hubs and chamfered the back sides so they'd sit tight against the hubs.
The hubs are carrying the load rather than the studs.
Well these adapters are off the self item but I back filled mine with resin like a rock now