Hassler shocks question

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Hassler shocks question
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Codeglia on Sunday, August 16, 2015 - 05:23 am:

I was looking at the single-spring (pre-pancake style) Hassler shocks that came on my '23 Runabout, and it seems like they could be removed, should I want to do so... but I was wondering if any additional hardware would need to be purchased first, to put the front and rear suspension back to stock?

For installation, I read somewhere that you have to swap/reverse the positions of the two front spring perches, as part of the installation. Logic says that you would have to swap the two back again, as part of the removal, right? Also, are the spring shackles that are on there now (along with the Hasslers) re-usable, in the conversion back to stock?Hassler Shocks - Front


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Codeglia on Sunday, August 16, 2015 - 05:38 am:

For some reason the new title that I had put into this new posting, regarding "Hassler Shocks" (NOT "Leaking Water Pump Bolts", as it's now showing) failed to change in my new post... sorry for the confusion!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Georgetown TX on Sunday, August 16, 2015 - 10:28 am:

You can do that, and you have everything you need. The spring perches are swapped left to right and turned backward when Hasslers are installed. You will have to reverse that.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Codeglia on Sunday, August 16, 2015 - 11:18 am:

I must say that Hassler was pretty smart, in that they seemed to make the conversion to their shocks as simple as could be (and, re-purposing the existing suspension hardware)!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Will Copeland - Melbourne Florida on Sunday, August 16, 2015 - 03:37 pm:

Im not sure the reason that you want to remove them. They really do help with the ride. As long as they are in good shape I would leave them there. You would need a hassler spring compressor to remove them.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Sunday, August 16, 2015 - 04:16 pm:

My opinion: Hasslers are ugly and just another item that can wear out (if they aren't already worn out).

You don't need a genuine Hassler spring compressor to remove them. You can very easily make one yourself like I did using all thread, two nuts, a washer and a piece of flat steel with a hole drilled in it. Others have written about and posted photos of similar solutions on the Forum.

(Note to Royce - when installing beehive Hasslers, the perches are transposed right to left, left to right - they are not turned backwards. On later pancake Hasslers, the perches are just turned backwards but not transposed.)

Regarding the front perches. You can remove the front perches and then swap them back into their original position.

Or

If you have difficulty completely removing the front perches, you can remove the front axle, loosen the front perches, turn them 180 degrees, turn the axle 180 degrees, swap the left and right spindles, etc.

PS: the car in your profile photo is 1922 or earlier model year. Also, when the top is in the down position, put the pins of the front bow into the lower eyelets of the second bow.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Codeglia on Sunday, August 16, 2015 - 07:07 pm:

My car is titled as a 1923, but I do believe whoever put it all together in years past installed some donor parts from a 1922... such as the rounded-top windshield, and the dual-lever (non-locking) Turtledeck.

Erik, I'm not sure what you mean when you say to "put the pins of the front bow into the lower eyelets of the second bow"... could you please elaborate? Thanks!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Sunday, August 16, 2015 - 08:16 pm:

The second bow has two eyelets.

When the top is up, the pins of the first or front bow are put in the upper eyelets of the second bow.

When the top is in the down position, the pins of the first bow are put in the lower eyelets of the second bow.

First photo is my '17 roadster with top in the down position - not the greatest photo but I have circled the two eyelets of the second bow. (Earlier oval top sockets but similar to the square sockets on your car.)

Second photo of roadster top sockets showing the two eyelets.

1

2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Codeglia on Monday, August 17, 2015 - 02:26 am:

Erik, thanks for the additional details on top stowage. I will have to double-check my top, as I'm not sure mine actually has those straps, like yours does.

I am curious... what would be the reasoning behind having these straps and "pinning" them to the top's various eyelets?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Monday, August 17, 2015 - 09:25 am:

The later, 1918 through 1922 square socket tops like yours do not have leather straps with the cotter like pins. (Also, the pivots on the square bow tops face inward, not outward like on the earlier tops.)

Instead, they have clips/pins that wrap around the top socket. They can be slid up and down depending if the top is up or down.

The pins keep the top bows from slipping out of the eyelets. If you don't use them, especially when the top is in the up position, the top sockets can fall down onto the body and ruin your beautiful paint job.

Reproductions of the clips are available:

https://www.modeltford.com/item/3314CSB.aspx

1


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Codeglia on Monday, August 17, 2015 - 10:59 am:

OK, I will look into this... THANKS.


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