Is there a substitute that has been used with success for the felt gasket on the hogs head to minimize oil seepage?

Someone on here posted that RV Anderson had a gasket of sorts.Try him and please post results here.

Gary, The original felt is about 1/8" thick (print dimension is 7/64-9/64" for ~1923).

A good bead of 3M gasket sealer, or RTV, will work good to seal the joint. It's difficult to get down into the area between the mag ring and the block, so applying to the hogs head is the easiest. Both need to be clean.

I've also used the felt and worked the sealant into it, then put it into place carefully. Both methods work good to stop the oil.

The corners are the spot to watch closely; to ensure the sealant has good coverage in this area, and the felt doesn't bunch up. This is where they typically leak.

Always test the fit of the felt with the pan gaskets in place to make sure the cover sits down properly without sitting too high (which will result in a bent pan or broken cover ear).

Gary, rather than substitute the felt gasket, I do as David suggests. Lay the felt down and apply a liberal coat of black RTV sealant and work this into the felt. Turn it over and repeat on the other side. Then you will have an oil impregnable gasket which will stay in place when you are fitting it. There is no need to trim the felt. Put each end in place and work the rest down onto the land at the back of the block. An extra smear of RTV in the corners will not go astray.

Hope this helps.

Allan from down under.

I quit using the felt gasket years and years ago. I only use a bead of RTV silicone sealant there now. I don't use the product that comes in the toothpaste like tube, I use the stuff that comes in a pressure dispenser like cheese whiz. It has a nice long nozzle you can reach in and lay about a 5/16" bead behind the field coil no problem. All surfaces should be clean for best results, but I have used this process in less than ideal conditions very successfully also.

I quit using the felt gasket. I use a bead of "The Right Stuff" instead. No leaks ever.

I have used a combination of a cork gasket and "the right stuff" with great success.

But I suspect Royce's method is just as good and much easier and I will try that next time.

I also use lamp wick in the corners well saturated with gasket sealer and have had no leaks with that and the felts.

A seven page article "The Transmission Cover Felt" by Trent Boggess and Steve Coniff appeared in the May/June 2005 issue of "Vintage Ford."

The article includes the history of the felts as well as restoration tips.

The transmission cover felts, like all Model T Ford parts, were engineered/designed to certain specifications and drawings and memos exist for the felts.

It turns out that the hogshead felt supplied by the vendors is not made to the original specifications in that it is too thick. According to the article, this can be remedied by carefully splitting the felt.

ALSO - depending on the year of the Model T, there were two types of shorter felts that were also used, an additional felt at the top of the crest between the hogshead and block and a felt under the transmission cover at each of the crankcase arms.

Interestingly enough, the Ford supplement in my 1917 edition of Dyke's Automobile and Gasoline Engine Enclopedia shows an "Edelman's" brand Model T Ford gasket set that includes the two shorter felts and lists their dimensions which are identical to those in the Ford factory drawings, including the specified 3/64" thickness.

Gotta put in a plug the Permatex products.

The Right Stuff is really Awesome! I have switched to using Ultra Black which I think is the same product with a Longer Working Life.

Don't be fooled about the "black RTV" They're NOT all the Same. Make sure to get the Ultra or right stuff for a leak free T. It's also important to clean the surfaces of any oily residue.

I installed mine with out the felt and no leaks.

I use a small distributor vacuum hose with Ultra Black RTV on it.

Royce and all, One of my T engines was done with Right Stuff and now I'm having a very hard time getting the valve covers off. I understand that I'm not the only one having a hard time getting parts sealed with Right Stuff apart. Any suggestions for this?

Thanks, Keith

I thought "the right stuff" was easier to break loose than the cheap stuff? That's my concern with using rtv. I've heard horror stories about potentially breaking an aluminum hogs head that was glued with rtv to the pan. Perhaps in that situation rtv was used everywhere and not just where the felt goes. Any thoughts on this??

I just use a monkey-load of silicone rubber. The clear kind from a caulking gun. I like the thought of having the hogshead glued to the block, especially 1925 and earlier blocks. It makes the block/hogshead closer to being one piece. Any kind of felt or hose or such is not going to supply you with that extra rigidity. I like clear because it is hard to see, especially when the excess has been trimmed away. Clear seals well and lasts just fine.

I always take the felt, dip it into a can of spar varnish, soak it up good. Hang it up over night letting the excess drip off. The next day its dry and stiff. Just form it over the back of the block. As the hogs head is tightened down the pressure will squeeze the varnish out of the felt. Seals very well and comes off easily.

Keith, Actually they come apart fairly easy. Slip either a thin gasket scraper or putty knife between the two parts to start it. Generally what will happen is, if you have used a gasket the gasket will split leaving some on the surface of each part. Then a sharp gasket scraper will remove the Right Stuff. If you haven't used a gasket with the Right Stuff, you will have to go around the part with a razor blade to split it as much as you can get at, then it will pull apart. For how well the Right Stuff works it's worth the extra trouble when you have to take it apart.

Wiping the mating surfaces down with acetone prior to assembly with the right stuff will ensure you get the best seal possible.

I had a heck of a time removing a hogshead that was sealed with something in lieu of the felt. Although I used a razor blade to cut the seal at the sides, I had to use a long crowbar to lift the cover off the block. Damn near broke the hogshead. Do what you want, but for me I'll use the felt with sealant, that way the felt can separate with only slight pressure.

Richard, sounds like a good plan especially if its an aluminum hogs head. It would also be easier on the pan when removing the hogs head.

I loath leaks as much as anyone else, but I fear damaging my aluminum trans cover when I have to remove it after using some of these "Leak No More, Hold Tight" tenacious adhesives.

Why do people always want to change things? There is nothing wrong with the felt! There was a big deal about the felt thickness a few years back, and I guess they finally got that taken care of.

I use poker table felt with rtv gasket maker blue

Dan - Thanks for the information. The 2 valve covers on my '14 seem to be almost welded on. Even with the manifolds removed, the edges of the valve covers are at an inconvenient angle to get at. I'll keep at it carefully, but I don't want to bend or damage my valve covers either. I will not use Right Stuff when I put the valve covers back on.

Thanks again,

Keith

Keith, those valve covers can be problematic as far as oil leaks go. I would reconsider using right stuff, but also use gaskets with it, then removal should be much easier. Good luck.

One trick which should make removal easier with Right Stuff or any other silicone gasket maker is to clean only one gasket surface and lightly grease the other gasket surface. Apply the silicone sealer to the clean surface and assemble the parts. The grease on one surface makes removal easier and the silicone gasket maker conforms to the surface and seals very well. I've never had a leak with this method. If you don't disturb the cured silicone on removal, you should be able to put the parts together again and have a seal.

Charlie T is right. Works great. I use a light film of oil wiped on with my finger. I put it on the side that is the hardest to clean. PK

Charlie T is right. Works great. I use a light film of oil wiped on with my finger. I put it on the side that is the hardest to clean. PK

Thanks, Charlie T. and Dan, That's what I'll do.

Note to Pat...I'll only do it once though.

Keith

Sure Keith, bring that up! PK