I have a 1926 Roadster Pickup. What tire pressure should I maintain. Also, what kind of oil do I put in it.
If the tires are 4.50 x 21, use 35 psi. If 30 x 3-1/2, use 55 - 60 psi.
What kind of oil will get you as many responses as there are brands and weights of oil. If you used 10w-40 you'll be just fine. Others will say thinner, thicker, synthetic, not synthetic, etc. More important is always have enough in the motor. Check it at every gas-up.
Do you have any idea what "Kind Of Oil" that was used in the Model T? Depending on what was being used....may be a consideration on the selection and weight of oil selected.
I like 10/30 synthetic but would not recommend it in an engine with many miles using non-detergent oil.
Others may not agree!
Oh boy, here we go!
Tony, I see you're new to the forum. As we always say, welcome to the affliction. I gather from the question that you're new to Model T's too. You're in for a good time. This may help: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html.
I hope some of the other stuff on my site is helpful too.
Jerry gave good advice. Use 4 quarts and your choice of motor oil. You just about can not make if a bad choice of weight or brand of motor oil.
It's very important to check the oil often and also to change it often since the T engine doesn't have any filter. Ford recommended every 750 miles.
Just make sure the oil does not contain graphite. The Magneto hates graphite and so do I.
Some people swear by synthetic, to me it's just a waste of money, doesn't last any longer and has to be changed just as often as regular oil. 10-30 or 10-40 (detergent even in an old motor) and change the oil once or twice a year, add as needed.
Mark....A number of new car manufacturers recommend using synthetic oil. Do you think they are stupid on requiring synthetic oil? You must think the oiling system in Model T engines is superior compared to modern engines. I consider the oiling system in model T's to be primitive compared to today's standards.
The main reason for my using synthetic oil in all my vehicles is improved lubrication compared to conventional oils. I change the oil the same as when using conventional oil.
Buying synthetic oil in 1 gal. containers from Walmart is not too expensive for me.
Our 13 touring is still running great after 15 years with no bearing adjustments using synthetic 10-30.
So I chose to spend more than some others on oil...it's my choice on how I spend my money buying oil. In comparison to what we spend on fuel.....the cost of synthetic for an oil change is a drop in the bucket!
However, the cost of re-building a model T engine is not cheap in my pocketbook.
Steve Jeff.....I know you were waiting for my response.....Smile!
Les A model T engine IS NOT a high tolerance filtered oil high RPM engine so your first 2 statements do not have anything to do with stock Model T's.
Unless you are running full synthetic they are a blend of mineral oil and synthetic anyway.
If using your Walmart synthetic oil works for you, by all means keep using it.
Mark, I have only used full synthetic oil. I also use synthetic gear oil in the Ruckstell....does not attack the bronze thrust washer. Buy it in 1 Gal. container from McMaster-Carr.
At one time you could buy reclaimed oil......something you may be happy with and save a few cents.
Are we having fun yet? Others are....Smile!
I have noticed that those who use 10-30, 5-30 or 10-40 have far less bearing trouble than those who insist on using heavy oil that is like roofing tar.
It is a SPLASH system!
By the way,
Synthetic blend means that 10% of the oil in the container is synthetic. Is that pathetic or what?
Either buy some low priced 10-30 or if you don't mind paying the extra price 100% synthetic.
The lighter the oil you use the cooler the engine oil temp. will be.
Synthetic should keep the oil temp slightly cooler than regular oil.
I use Rotella 15-40 for diesel engines. It still has zinc in it. Zinc is important to the babbitt bearings. Today's oil of any brand is far better quality than what was used when the car was new.
Is there any chance that the use of the Rotella has contributed to "the noise in the hogshead" problem?
Babbitt erosion? covering on the coils? I know that you are investigating the pan issue, but am wondering about the part the oil played - if any?
Zinc - I suspect that you actually mean the chemical additive ZDDP - is actually unimportant for Babbitt bearings. It was first adopted as an additive to automotive oils by the SAE in the mid 1950's. The reason it was deemed necessary then was due to high performance V8 engines with ultra stiff valve spring pressures in the high performance engines introduced in that era.
Those engines of the 1950's had trouble with cam shaft and lifter failures during testing for the 1955 model year. Engineers found that the high performance V8 engines did not have this problem if the extreme pressure additive ZDDP was added to the oil.
This of course is not a problem in a Model T. The youngest Model T in 1954 was 23 years old, and had operated just fine for all those years without ZDDP. ZDDP will neither help nor harm a Model T engine. I would not waste any time looking for it on an oil label for my Model T's.
I am new to Ts but I will share this oil experience.
I first put 10w30 in my T and everything was fine, but it was a little cranky to hand start and had a pretty bad case of the creeps when cold and liked to try to run me over after starting even though I would store it with the lever forward and car in high.
I switched to Rotella 5w40 synthetic and the creep problem got a lot better. Next oil change I think I am going to try a 0w 30 or 40 oil. Mobil makes both.
I dont think there is much need for synthetic in a T, but I do like the low cold viscosity choices that synthetics provide and they really do not cost much more that conventional oil at Wal-Mart.
Oil type does matter. I read somewhere when I first got my 15 Roadster that wet clutch motorcycle oil was great. Sounds good beings the T Is basically a wet clutch type. Big no no I tried it and my transmission wouldn't even pull up my drive way any more which is not too awful far from being flat. Had to change the oil 4 times to get it working ok again.
Joe has it right,Where you live and where you start your T [inside or outside] makes a difference!! Bud in Wheeler,Mi.