For those who own the later Model Ts, was there welting between the rear fenders and the body? The front fenders and splash shields? Bead or no bead? If so, what type and how thick? Langs sells one type and Restoration Supply has many different types.
Thanks for the help!
No welting on the body.
There is the usual hide'em welting to hide the nails for the top.
Only welting between body parts on T's was between the turtle deck and the body on '26/'27 runabouts. Maybe there was a squeak problem during prototype testing they had to fix - the first runabouts made in the autumn of '25 had no screws attaching the turtle to the back of the body, the only fasteners were to the subframe below, so the turtle must have flexed considerably at the top relative to the body.
Soon four new screws were added, but the welting was kept - maybe a lost saving oppurtunity for Ford?
Thanks, gentlemen! There wasn't any when I took the fenders, etc. off; but, my car was somewhat restored in the past, so I am never sure what hadn't been altered in the past.
I have seen at least 2 original '27 T's with welting. One of them is an original '27 Roadster owned by a member of our club. It was in a minor accident and last driven in 1934 judging by the license plate on it. It has the original fender welting and pin striping on it.
The other one is a '27 Tudor owned by a friend from Florida and North Carolina. It's a quite rusty car with little paint on it, but it does have the fender welting on it.
At Hershey last year someone had a NOS '26 - '27 Turtle Deck for sale and it had the original welting with it. I just looked for the picture but can't find it.
Jim, if you'd like I can email pictures of these to you. I don't do pictures on the Forum yet.
Yes, I would love to see some pics. I would like to make the car as historically correct as possible. Thanks.
I use old fashoned cloth friction tape. That will correct the squeaking.
There's some good information on this subject here: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/411944/435622.html?1417256267
The anti-sqeak appears to have been riveted to the turtle deck on my 1927 Roadster produced in September 1926. Here are some pictures of the remaining rivets.
I don't have any samples of the original anti-squeak. It was probably removed when the car was last painted in 1965.
I bought this welt to go under the turtle deck on my car when it gets back from being painted. It has a grain texture.
Jim - I sent you a PM.
The link to pictrues posted by Eric Sole is the one I was looking for but couldn't find. Thanks, Eric!
Thank you so much!
I asked the late Bruce McCalley (before he passed) that question and his answer and opinion was a firm NO.
I haven't heard about fender welting on '27 T's before? Please share photos
Serial # would also be nice, maybe an add on quite late in production, thus rare - or maybe only used at one or a few branch plants?
I have also seen the NOS turtle deck photos with the original welting riveted in place. But I have never heard of any fender welting, as original. Not to say it may not have been so, but never seen it (or its remains) or heard of it .
Hi Jim, I put welting on between the fenders and splash aprons out of personal preference.
What side bead did you use, Wayne? It looks really good, by the way.
Jim, I did not use my peepers while measuring, but it appeared to be 3/16" bead by 1.5" leg. Hope that helps...
Thanks for the measurements, Wayne. I test fitted the repaired rear fenders to the body and placed some interior welting in the seam and really liked the look. How did you mount it? Did you glue it in?
Was there any welding used between the running boards and the fenders?
No welting on the running boards or fenders on the Improved Fords.
Only the turtle deck on the runabout got thin bead welting, the welt ran along the back and sides of the turtle deck.
Here is original on this runabout.
Note the welting around the curve part of the turtle deck where the yellow nozzle of the gas tank stands.
Ford factory part # 48218X "Anti-squeak (deck to body)" (Mar 16, 1927 Price List of Body Parts)
Jim, no glue...just place it and cut key holes in the legs to allow the fender to splash apron fasteners to hold it in place. W