Whatever you do. DON'T use an impact wrench to tighten the axel nut. That's what somebody did on the car that I have. So far I have broken the pulling tool that threads onto the hubcap threads, mushroomed the end of the axel a bit, I've tried heating and beating . The wheel will not come off, I tried leaving the nut loose and driving the car on rough roads, still no luck. I think my next step is to cut off the heads of the bolts and try to take the wheel apart and get the wooden spokes out of the way so I can get more heat on it. I've been a mechanic 50 years I've work everything from lawnmowers to bulldozers, I've never seen anything so stubborn as this. I'm thinking 50 to 60ft.lbs. of torque on the axel nut is plenty, with the long taper on the axel shaft.
I can relate! Right rear would not budge. I gave up for a while but then asked Bob Bergstadt what to do. He sent me a knocker nut ( could have the name wrong ).
Anyway I turned the knocker on tight and smashed it with a 5 pound hammer. A few hellofa hard whacks and the wheel came off.
Not sure if it will help for you, yours sounds severely stuck, but I hope this helps
Note, you didn't say whether you left the nut loose with the puller on, tightened the puller as far as you could and then drove around with the puller on. Sometimes the combination of the puller and the driving will pop it loose.
Always had the best luck using a knocker, as Justin describes. The trick is to keep it tight, as Justin did.
If you use a knocker, it helps if you jack up the opposite side. I read it here when others suggested it, and it seemed strange, but it worked for me.
And I agree, it should not take a boat load of torque on a taper shaft to achieve a proper fit. I have used 60 ft/lbs with success, cant see any reason to go past 75 ft/lbs. Maybe a poor fitting hub might be the reason some like it real tight--dunno though.
I am guessing the wheel worked loose in its previous service and was retightened. Most likely the taper in the hub was warn over size and was tightened past the taper portion on the axle and is jammed on the round portion of the axle. You may have to sacrifice the wheel.
Should be 90 to 100 FP on the nut. While the lighter torque may have worked for you, if the taper in the hub and on the axles are less then perfect you are looking to have a messed up key way if and when the hub moves on the taper.
"I tried leaving the nut loose and driving the car on rough roads, still no luck."
Using that method, the hubs don't always come loose right away, one of my brothers did that on a '39 Ford, drove it around for a month before the hub came loose.
Just takes time, be patient.
Try again with a bigger hammer. As Justin and Jerry say above, I had to use a 12 pound hammer and really hit the hubcap puller very hard to get it to pop off. Even then it took a couple of whacks. Suggestion to protect the axle end is to put the nut back on inside, flush with the threads. Definitely jack up the other wheel first. I think it is to avoid damaging the innards of the differential.
I am sure this is dumb question but what is a Knocker Nut and where are they sold.
Alby, it's a nut to screw onto the rear axle when the regular nut is off, then you lift the opposite side wheel and give the knock off nut a good hard whack with a heavy hammer..
Hopefully you won't crack anything, just getting the wheel off
(I prefer the regular puller: https://www.modeltford.com/item/2800WP.aspx )