I plan on lowering the rear 5" using these brackets
For the front, I am considering using a 3" dropped axle, reversing the spring eyes (1"), and '26-'27 spindles (5/8") for a total of 4 5/8".
That worries me, as I don't want the front to be higher than the rear. I want 5" front and back. Am quibbling over 3/8"? Will it make a difference...noticeable like a crooked picture on the wall, that is only off by 1/16"?
you might notice the difference if you hang the T on the wall with the picture
I'm no expert on gow-jobs, but it seems to me that it would be a simple matter to raise the rear end a bit with an extra spring leaf if you didn't like the stance.
Most Model T's sit higher in the rear to begin with using stock rear spring so even if you reduced the number of leafs in the rear spring (?) it may still sit higher then you think.
I think you won't have a issue
However have you considered how close the oil drain will be to the ground? Having ripped the drain plug out loading a quite lowered T speedster, it is something to consider
First, I don't think you'd notice the difference. For one thing, how often will it sit on a perfectly level surface such that any difference would be seen?
Second, if you decide it's too low in back, put a shim between the spring and the frame. Or, as Tom suggests, an extra spring leaf.
Please don't remove leaves to make a drop. It messes up the suspension, causing bottoming out and "axle hop".
Not to derail the conversation, but is there any way to modify these brackets to work with the 26/27 frame/crossmember? I understand they will not work out of the box, but I wasn't sure if that was a limitation of the fit to the crossmember, frame, spring or all three?
I'm guessing the wide flange on a 26/27 rear cross member won't fit in the hook end of the bracket. If that's the case, you could probably notch out those flanges to allow the bracket to fit.
Like the others I do not think you will notice the difference, But the 5 inch drop worries me. 3 inch is considered the normal "useable drop" 4 inches is "pushing it" and 5 inches "may be too much". That drain plug gets close real fast, and it does not take much of a dip, or bump for it to be dragging. Just my 2 cents worth, Its your car, so build it like you want it, but I felt compelled to give my warning thoughts.... Submitted with respect, Donnie Brown ....
I built a frame with a 5" drop, and a bent rear spring. There was no issue with clearance, but with the dropped front axle and reverse eye spring the rear sat too low. I built a new frame with a 4" drop and the frame sits level. The 5" drop almost caused the torque tube to be horizontal.
One of my speedsters has Laurel brackets, drop axle, and late spindles. Adds up to about a six inch drop. The torque tube is horizontal, so I put sealed bearings on the pinion to keep the oil in the rear end. Drain plug is about three inches off the ground, so I have to be careful. I went too low on my hill climb racer and it is a real chore to load it on a trailer. I now use tall rear wheels until ready to race then I put the short fat ones on.
There was a guy posting on here 15 years ago that made rear wheels out of layers of plywood.
They were special small wheels so he could get through the very low garage door.
Wow guys, VERY good information. I won't normally be loading my car on a trailer, and will normally be on pavement, so I'm aware, but not too concerned about the 5" lowering. I was considering lower, but then I did worry about the pan.
I hadn't even considered the idea of adding a spring, or especially a shim, I think that's the ticket!