I am a bought to have my 1911 motor rebuilt which way should I go ? Scat or stay with an original crankshaft . Any ideals ,what about the camshaft stock grind .250 new reproduction or original ? Perry
I put one in my '13, because I wanted a standard crank, not one that has been ground to .030". It is smooth, and I like it. You have to grind the horseshoe down a bit and the bolt too, so the counterweight doesn't hit it. The other thing is, the area where the rope seal goes will be perfect, as well as the pulley area.
The original Dodge Brothers crankshafts are notorious for failing and wiping out early engine blocks. I "dodged" a bullet when mine broke because it was idling at the time. I would never rebuild an engine using a DB crank again.
If you have an original late Rouge plant manufactured Ford E-E crank they are pretty reliable. The SCAT crank is of course even better.
Having a builder do a '23 now, considered the SCAT until yesterday's phone call.
Builder found a nice E-E crank and it turned .020 - .020 so will be happy with that Ford crankshaft.
And he found some modern valves with modern keepers (which I prefer as those antiquated cups and pins in the hole of the valve shaft never appealed to me much )
Plus the length on these new valves is enough to use solid lifter, with valves cut to clearance on valve machine. Don't think in my lifetime will ever have to adjust valves on this '23 block....which got all new hardened seats placed.
Measure the lobe height on your original camshaft and compare to the heel of the cam measured 90 degrees from the lobe height. Originally the lift was 0.250".
It might be interesting to keep the 1911 camshaft if it isn't too worn since it has slightly different specifications compared to 1912 and later.
Good reground cams can be found at Chaffins in Corona, Ca and Antique Auto Ranch in Spokane, Wa.
Chaffins and Stipe has new cams that cost more and may give a little more power on the margin?
Here's one of several cam discussions at the forum also covering the topic about advancing the cam: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/242215.html?1320565384
I put a SCAT standard T stroke into mine when I rebuilt it last summer. It runs just like a T should run but is smoother with less vibrations.
Are any of you running a Scat with iron pistons? I thought mine would have less vibration than it does. I used the standard pistons, because I had NOS rings for them, and Henry made more than 15 million of them that way. I am considering replacing them with aluminum for smoothness.
The use of lighter reciprocating components has long been known to increase horsepower while improving reliability, improving longevity, and reducing vibration. It's simple and effective.
Do you have the wood blocks and side bolts in your rear engine mounts. Leaving them out, which seems to be a "thing" for some folks, can create big vibration.
Also, check the balance of your fan by throwing the belt off and running without few a few minutes. An off balance fan can cause bad vibration and is seldom suspected.
It might not be your engine causing the vibration. I found mine to be in the fan.
It's not a "bad" vibration, in the T realm. It just doesn't seem any smoother that my T with a stock crank. Yes, the wood blocks are there.
After much searching, and actually finding a couple of good EE cranks that would've built nicely, I decided to "bite the bullet" and ordered a Scat for the engine to go into the speedster I hope to eventually finish.
It's not yet arrived, but I'm looking forward to it.
Thanks for the input I will go with the Scat . Perry Burnet Tx
Since I don't build my own engines, I like the new cranks as added insurance that I'm only going to have to pay for an engine rebuild once.
I have a Dubats crank on the shelf waiting to go into my Touring engine. I'll have to buy a Scat for the speedster project since the Dubats cranks are no longer available.