I have read billions of posts about water pumps and their value or lack thereof. I have a 26 T with a water pump but it leaks. I want to do away with the pump. Where can I find the part that will replace the pump and make the car original again. I see that Snyder doesn't seem to have it. Any help would be appreciated
If yours is like many, you'll need a water outlet, tube, two hoses, and four hose clamps. I'd call Chaffins or Langs. One of them will fix you up.
You can get the inlet fitting from Langs or from many of the used parts vendors, check your radiator to see if it is the two row one if so it will require a new radiator for it to work properly, you can tell which radiator by looking at the fan pulley if it is about six inches long you have the small radiator and it just is not big enough to do a good job. If in doubt of what you have take a picture and post it here and you will get a lot of good advice.
The water inlet and metal tube and hoses and clamps for your car are common items and relatively inexpensive. Call Langs or Bobs and ask for them. The tubes, hoses and clamps are made new. They carry used parts and will be able to supply you with the inlet you need for next to nothing.
Henry and Royce
THANK YOU both very much. I spent hours researching this on the internet. You two guys fixed me up in 8 minutes. I am grateful.
Oh yeah, and a gasket. . I'm assuming there are two usable bolts already present.
Snyder's does have the parts you need. Look between engine and radiator pages. Also consider replacing the fan belt.
Yes, without the pump you'll need a shorter belt.
And you may need the bolts. Some water pumps required longer than original bolts.
And there is an outside chance that a thermostat was installed in the water outlet ( front end of the cylinder head). You will want to remove it.
Hank, Snyder's does have it. A search revealed http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/search?attr15=17&attrYear=&pn=search&t=&q=wate r+inlet Plus you need the bolts, metal pipe and hose and clamps.
Forgot to mention, you may find that without the water pump, you don't get sufficient cooling. That would indicate the need for a better (new) radiator. I sure would like to know how to edit you own posts. Can't seem to find the magic mix for that.
Never go with a water pump. Trashing my troublesome water pump was the first thing I did even though mine never leaked. Henry Ford's thermosyphon system is the best for your car. Even with a tired and leaky rad, the original system always cooled my engine. If you are worried, invest in a new Brassworks or Bergs radiator. I put a new Brassworks in mine and it just passed the ultimate test, The Woodward Dream Cruise traffic jam.
I have a 1926 coupe. Even though it is not correct for the 26 T, I bought the brass water inlet tube instead of the steel one as the brass does not rust like the steel one does. Looks better too. Jim Patrick
Jim,Your right about the brass pipe and i also wonder why anyone would buy the steel freeze plugs instead of brass?? Bud in Wheeler,Mi.
I ran a water pump for over 40 years, and thought they were just fine, but I decided to try the car without one, and it still runs just fine, I only need to keep the water level down just a bit in the radiator. As far as a steel water inlet pipe. If you wish to use a brass one that is up to you. I used water soluble oil in my cooling system. The water pipe will never rust ever, and if I dare say, as thick as the water inlet pipes are, I seriously doubt if one would rust out in a very long time even with plain water!
What effect will the water soluble oil have on anti freeze?? Bud not in calf??
I think most people that use soluble oil also have a antifreeze mixed in with it.
I use a half gallon of anti freeze in my T along with soluble oil. I Use a gallon of antifreeze in my 51 V8 pickup along with lots of soluble oil.
You never know when the weather can turn cold enough to freeze around here or when I might go some place and stay over where it could freeze.
When I lived in Wisconsin and Minnesota I used 50% or better antifreeze. It doesn't mind the oil.
Water pump lube is nothing but soluble oil anyway.
Some OHV T engines need water pumps, the stock thermogeyser system often is not up to the task.
The help I have received on here has been unbelievable. You guys are truly awesome. Thank You so much. I do have one more question. How do I properly adjust the spark advance lever so that's not the cause of my overheating.
I recently had a phone conversation with an old Model T hand whose advice has been good in the past. He said move the spark lever down to where the engine runs best, and mostly leave it there even going uphill. If you're climbing and start to hear pinging, raise the spark lever only enough to stop the noise and move it down again when you finish the climb.