I have the new spring installed. It was about 3/8 of an inch shorter than the old spring, but it went in fine. The trick was the pad. I finally tied it in place with sewing thread, and then I could lift the spring in place without the pad moving out of position.
Now I have the shackles in position. Am I suppose to tighten the nuts holding the shackles as tight as I can? Or do I leave them a bit loose so the spring is free to move? It appears if I tighten them real tight that the shackles cannot move in relation to the perches or the spring.
Thanks to everyone for their input.
Got leave them loose just loose enough to let the spring work
In theory, you should be able to tighten the nuts without binding up the spring.
Dave, Jerry is correct. The shackles are designed to tighten the nuts, then insert the cotter pins. They are not meant to be left a "little loose" The outer plate is "supposed to tighten up to the "shoulder" of the shackle, and still leave clearance for the shackle to pivot. Sometimes if they were ran loose, the plates or the shoulder are worn away. If the plates are worn, you can sometimes just turn the good side in, for a fix. Hope this helps, and have fun.... Donnie Brown ...
Dave -- If they do bind up the shackles when you tighten the nuts, back them off 1/2 turn or so, then put the cotter pins in.
If the shackles bind when the nuts are tightened, either the shackle bushes are too long, or the shackle pin shoulder is worn. As Donnie says, you should be able to tighten the nuts up snugly and then fit the cotter pin. Donnie's tip may be the way to go with the U type shackles. Just turn the plate over.
Allan from down under.
Shackles that bind to the spring when tightened can cause a wicked front end shimmy. BTDT.
The first thing is you didn't mention if you are working on the front or rear! The pad shouldn't have been a problem, because the center bolt holds it in. When installing a spring, front or rear, I always leave everything loose until I get the shackles in. The early two piece shackles are easier to get in. I leave the perches loose too, so everything will align. When installing the cotter pins, sometimes you really have to tighten them real hard to get the cotter pin holes to line up. Then tighten up all the other parts.
Dave is continuing the repair on his front spring on his 1924 speedster. The thread at: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/506218/568815.html?1441685943 discusses and shows photos of the top 3 leaves that broke. The 2nd and 3rd leaves from the top had cracks that were showing rust indicating it had occurred over time and not a one time fracture.
Just curious if those same shackles that you are now discussing the ones that if you tighten them they will not move on the spring – were they the ones used on the previous front spring that broke the top 3 leaves? And do you know if the spring shackles on the original front spring would or would not move on the spring? I think that would add addition torque forces on the spring to compress it downward if the shackles would not move. I should have paid more attention in that engineering stress analysis class.
And if the new spring the same width as the old spring at the eyelets where the shackle goes?
I’m glad you are making progress.
Hap l9l5 cut off
The car is all better now. Yes, they are the same shackles. The spring did move when I tightened them, so we will see how they do. I have a car show on Saturday, and the high for the day is 62, and the low is 45. Driving a speedster that early in the AM might require a set of Badger ear muffs. The car show is about 30 miles away.
Although the largest spring in this set is about 3/8 of an inch shorter, everything appeared to go together well. I am assuming that there is enough play in the shackles to account for the difference. One shackle is a bit loose in one of the bushings. That will be something that needs to be addressed in the near future as well. At least it gave me a chance to check out the front bearings and re-grease them.