I'm thinking of getting an enclosed trailer for my 21 Touring. Can anyone give me some advice as to what works well with these cars? I have A Ram1500 pickup truck for towing.
Thanks for your help.
Decide whether you want to put the car in it with the top up, or down. That will determine the trailer height needed. A tall trailer will cost more; weigh more; and unless designed right, will be less aerodynamic and be less economical to pull, but the last item is a consideration with an enclosed trailer of any height tall enough for a T.
Check out this thread
I have a 2013 18' car mate with a v-nose. Absolutely love it.
Height is the issue when looking for a trailer - make sure the door opening is big enough. Rubber torsion axles pull nicer, and make sure you LOOK at the trailer closely. You get what you pay for, and a cheap trailer isn't going to last.....
I pull mine with a 1/2 ton and it pulls well.
Why spend the extra for the extra height?
I can give you two good reasons.
First, if you get caught in a rain shower or storm, you don't have to find some help and wrestle the top down, then get in on wet seats to drive it into the trailer.
Second, and more important, once you get into the trailer, you have to get out of the car, and out of the trailer. If the trailer's roof is just above the windshield's top, you have to essentially crawl out. Like you do when the top is up, except that you also have to crawl out of the trailer's door.
Which brings up the trailer's side door. Make sure it will align with the door from which you will exit the car!
I have a unique way of securing the car inside the trailer, which does not require an extra-wide or extra-long trailer. I'll be happy to share, if you want.
Do not buy a trailer to only haul model T's!!! Bud.
I'm using a Ram 1500 with a 7x12 standard height enclosed single axle trailer with V nose. It gives me all room I need and tows like it's not even there. I'm hauling a Runabout. You might want to double check the length on a Touring Car in case the folded top makes the car too long.
IF you are buying an enclosed trailer solely to carry a Model T a standard 14ft. cargo trailer will work. I have a runabout, touring and a pickup and all three fit. I use a small winch to pull them in and slowly let them out. Yes the tops need to be down, and I can not haul a coupe, but I don't need to be in the car when loading. My tandem trailer weighs 1470lbs. The heaviest Ts weigh about 1500lbs. Total weight is less than 3000lbs. It would be nice to have a wide long tall trailer that I could drive the Ts in with the tops up, have room to get out and walk around inside, but hauling a 1500lb. car on a trailer weighing 3000lbs. or more makes no sense to me. To each their own. Jerry
A long trailer tows,turns,backs up better,and i think the longer tail is less likely to wag the dog!! To each their own.Bud.
Thanks for all the info. You guys are amazing!!
Here's why you need a tall trailer. Two weeks after repairs were done, I did it again--that's when I ordered a new trailer that was 8 ft tall.
Manny, it seems that most of the guys opt for ramp doors, and they are nice except that they can be heavy, and if you need to get in the back of the trailer for some reason when somebody is parked up close, you are out of luck. You also can't get up close to load something other than your car (using a forklift etc.) if you want to. Barn doors allow you to get in and out in close quarters, but then you will have to drag out the ramps to unload the car. I have barn doors and I also have a side and front door for access and tying down. I also mounted rails or guides to the floor between the car tires so that when the car enters the trailer it can't get crooked and will back straight out through the door. it also won't bounce around while towing.
I think we have had our 18'x 8'6" Haulmark for 17 years now and the thin trim is off the inside in places. When we take a car i cary our 3,000 watt Honda gen,battery charger,air compressor, lites ,tools,extra fuel,and there is a closet pole to hang cloths in garment bags. Trucker Jim has a lot of ideas!!!! Bud.
Jeff is spot on ...
All of my enclosed car hauler trailers are custom built w/ rear barn doors.
My current car hauler has a 6 ft. wide x 7 ft. 6 inch wide set of barn doors on my passenger side close to the front.
I also haul with a Dodge with 5.7 Hemi. Trailer is a Stealth 8.5' x 18'. Extra 6 inches added to height to accommodate 1924 touring with high windshield posts. Trailer has a beavertail in the back 2' to help with door clearance.
I just picked this one up. It was custom built for a 1912 Touring to load with the top up. Came complete with a winch and I love it. The winch is a great way to go, it gives you complete control loading the T.
Don - Contemplating the purchase of an enclosed trailer with optional "extra" height myself. Just wondering what the length of your trailer is, and the actual height? I want the extra height but don't want any more height than absolutely necessary. Also, can't tell from the camera angle of your attached photo,.....did you get the "vee nose" option? I'm told that the vee nose really helps with fuel mileage. Also, I've been told that the modern rounded "bulb" shaped nose is actually more fuel efficient that the vee nose. Lots to consider when ordering a custom built trailer,.....thanks in advance for any additional info you might provide,.......harold
Harold, the trailer is 16'X8' plus 3' for the tongue. The rear door is 7' tall opening. The front is NOT V but has a sloped roof front to it. It also has 13" tires and with the Fordor loaded I'm 1000lbs under its rated hauling weight. It pulls good behind my Dodge 1500 quad cab but pulls great behind the motorhome. So far I'm pleased with it and it seems to be very stable in crosswinds. You can definitely feel the squirming as semi's pass though.
Mike Black, If it can make you feel any better? I had the unfortunate displeasure of watching a friend do that with his two cylinder REO. And it was his second time.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
I have a 2000 20' hallmark extra tall I used to haul my 15 touring in, but I don't tour anymore. If your interested email me and I'll send you pictures $2995 great shape
Alan, please give me a call at 712-259-1808
Ask Freighter Jim about fuel mileage and different types of trailers. He has commented before. I believe he didn't think the shape of the front made any difference in fuel mileage. He should know....
I just brought my trailer back from the factory. Had Barn doors and ramps and a winch for 8 years. Had a ramp door installed. Too many close calls with ramps and a winch. Dropped it off the ramps more than once. I am also tired of crawling under it to hook up the winch every time I loaded.
I have driven it on several times, and almost always drove it off, but there was just too much going on with ramps, soft ground, etc.....
I had a 24' trailer for over 20 years on the theory that I could haul 2 cars. I did that once and dragged a much longer trailer than I needed for no reason the rest of the time. When I retired the trailer I bought a 16' trailer and it is just the right size for a Model T with enough room to get around but not a lot of wasted space. I can even get my big 7 passenger touring car in there but it is tight. Unless you have a monster car I doubt you would need anything bigger. I went for the V nose thinking it would save on gas. If you do that get the extra long tongue if you have a vehicle with a rear door that opens up or you might not be able to open it with the trailer in place. A year later I bought a second trailer from the same outfit. It is identical except it has a flat nose. If there is a difference in gas mileage between them it is so small that I can't notice it. I think Freighter Jim is right about it not making a difference. Unfortunately, its 7 mpg with either trailer hauling a T.
A V- Nose trailer offers no practicable advantage over a Coffin Front trailer.
I have towed both for years - no discernible fuel mileage difference.
My current enclosed trailer has a 34 ft. box w/ the front
2 feet taken up by industrial shelving - I could not have
that space w/ a V Nose trailer.
I bought a 20ft 8.5 wide with 12 in. extra high and a V nose. I can't see any difference in my millage. Had a 20ftX8ft.with a radius front before I got this trailer.
I have always thought that the V nose should allow at least some improvement in fuel mileage over the flat front trailer, but, in reading this thread, maybe not. However, I just recently read (somewhere) that the commonly seen rounded bulb-shaped front instead of a flat front is very effective in improving fuel mileage. I just can't help believing that there just must be some truth to this, because you see so many commercial tractor-trailer semi's going down the highway with this bulb-shape front on the trailers. Even the new fifth-wheel RV's have this shape. I just don't believe that so many trailers (commercial and otherwise) would be designed, engineered and built with this shape if it was not true. Now then, more in keeping with this thread, I see where is is possible to purchase a commercially made bulb-shaped fiberglass add-on piece that can be attached to an existing flat-front enclosed car hauler trailer. Anyway,...."food for thought",......harold
Im getting ready to buy me a trailer soon. Im thinking of an 18 foot v-nose, with a ramp door. Im torn on ramp or barn door and I understand the difference advantages to each style. But the ramp seems to fit what Im wanting to do. What is the length and height I need to have to load a 27 touring (with bumpers). and with the top up (and down). Also are there many choices as to width. I would like the trailer wide enough to be able to get around the car. But is that unrealistic. I want a side door near the front. and two skylights. Im going for the heavy axles and tires. and I also prefer a riveted skin instead of just glue. So with all that said, what can I expect as a ball park figure to pay for a trailer. Thanks One more thing ....The trailer will probably be used with a Model A pickup, 27 touring, or a 1933 Plymouth coupe.
I can easily get a Model A pickup or my 1930 Plymouth coupe in a 16' trailer with room to walk around. I would also get alloy wheels and radial tires while you are making a list.
Longer hauls better!! Bud in Wheeler,Mi.
Donnie, an 18' v nose, 8.5' wide will haul what you want to haul. That is what I got in July. I opted for an added 18" high so I could put my 11 touring in it and leave the top up. Plenty of room. My Ford 2012 Fusion will even fit in it. Think about a 4' door above the trailer wheels on the drivers side plus the 3' door on right front. A Doolittle will set you back around 6500. Mine pulls well with 1997 F150 with 4.6 v8. My top clearance is around 85".
When I got my '27 TT I purchased a 8.5x24' Haulmark with an additional 1 foot added in height, ramp door and beavertail with a workbench and cabinets in the front 3 feet. As I remember, the added 1 foot in height was $20 per foot. The front workbench/ cabinets were a stock $500 item well worth the cost for the extra convenience.
Let's face it guys. How many of us are Freighter Jims? What will your trailer be used for 99% of the time? My big trailer is a garage first, workshop second and a trailer last. My "little" 16 footer is perfect for keeping my Model A in or for hauling my 22 Touring or 25 Coupe on extremely rare occasions. Otherwise they just sit in my drive.
Right now the A is in a pole barn temporarily, the TT just barely fits in the small trailer with 6" clearance front and rear and the big trailer, with electric power, heat, florescent lights and the workbench/cabinets up front is my restoration shelter for a '79 MG Midget. I can walk around and open the doors of any car I carry in it.
My last consideration is gas mileage. My '06 F-150 gets 9.2 MPG towing whether full or empty. And that is for less than 200 miles per year, so don't let that determine the smallest, lightest trailer you can suffer with. Spend a little extra and you will be happy you did.
Just my two cents worth.
This thread has gone all different directions.
I always share what I have learned over the years thru trial & a lot of error.
I try to pass along what I know to help others.
I had a nice 16 ft,8ft high,8'6 wide that I used for my T's. (depot hack=85 inches at back, 2 tourings) The beauty of having the 8 ft high is the use as a garage when touring during the day and return to the motel at night. Just drive in and lock. This trailer now belongs to my son as I needed a larger one for the Marmon. I went for a 24 ft, 8 ft high so I can continue to haul my T's. I think I can squeeze 2 tourings in if I need to. I ordered 7k axles so weight will not be a problem. I use a Ford E250 Super Duty and I don't have a problem. I slow up on hills but that is ok.