Welding stainless that has been soldered (OT)

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Welding stainless that has been soldered (OT)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Glenn Edwards on Wednesday, September 16, 2015 - 11:58 am:

Hello, My son has a sorghum pan that is made of stainless steel. It has seams that were originally soldered. Some of these seams have begun to leak. We tried to re-solder with silver solder without any luck. Our plan now is to use a propane torch and stainless steel brushes to remove the solder and then weld with the proper wire and gas. Any thoughts and tips will be appreciated. This isn't T related, but the knowledge of you guys has amazed me for years. Thanks, Glenn in Middle Tennessee


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Georgetown TX on Wednesday, September 16, 2015 - 01:04 pm:

Should be easy to silver solder. You need to mask off the area to be soldered and bead blast it. Use flux only on the areas where you want the solder to stick.

If you really have to MIG weld it then you need to again bead blast it enough to remove all traces of solder.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Wednesday, September 16, 2015 - 01:15 pm:

"...originally soldered"

With what? Lead solder? Silver solder?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary Tillstrom 30 miles N of Memphis TN on Wednesday, September 16, 2015 - 01:20 pm:

I don't think you can get it clean enough to weld once its been soldered. I know if it was brazed you can't and I suspect solder would be no different.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown North Central Arkansas on Wednesday, September 16, 2015 - 01:34 pm:

There may be some new technique or flux that I am not aware of but in all my years of welding I have never heard of a way to solder or braze stainless. The solder or braze does not stick well to stainless. That is probably why the joints are leaking. I would clean to bare metal and tig or stick weld the joints with stainless rods. The joint will be permanent and never leak again... Donnie Brown


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard E Moore Jr. Pickwick lake Tenn. on Wednesday, September 16, 2015 - 01:46 pm:

I'm with donnie


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Redelman, Kouts, IN on Thursday, September 17, 2015 - 08:51 am:

You can solder stainless with 50-50 using a stainless liquid flux. We did it all the time where I worked. Steve


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Thursday, September 17, 2015 - 12:44 pm:

Nothing new about brazing SS. Use silver brazing rod not solder. (Actually, it's flat strips.) I used Safety-Silv to repair cracks on a SS Model A radiator cover and it worked great. The color was a good match too after polishing.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ernest Clerihew on Thursday, September 17, 2015 - 01:43 pm:

Here in Vermont, the making of maple syrup requires similar pans used over an evaporator. If you clean the pan up and get all the impurities off the area to be repaired, you can use 50/50 solder with acid flux to re-solder the repair. If you can use a 200 or 300 watt electric soldering iron, you can control the heat easier than with a torch. If you can't find acid flux, use muriatic acid cut with water in a glass container with some zinc slugs in the bottom. This is an excellent flux for stainless.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Glenn Edwards on Monday, September 21, 2015 - 05:06 pm:

We tried silver solder and probably didn't have the proper flux. Could not get it to stick at all. Going to try cleaning it up well and mig welding it. Hope that works.


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