I need new 30 X 3 1/2 tubes. I heard that Michelin tubes were good.
Which tubes do you think are best?
The best I've run across are Goodyears, made in USA; I think they were available in only the 30 x 3-1/2. I got mine almost 30 years ago when I was still in college; they still look and feel like new when I changed a tire two years ago. I don't know if they are still available; I've looked all over with no luck. I got them at a swap meet and you don't know how many times I've wished I'd bought out his whole stock. I feel better when I remind myself that I didn't have the money then; I had to borrow the funds from my girlfriend (now wife--this was a good marriage test) to get the five that I got.
Avoid the rubber stem tubes (Chinese) now available from most vendors. The metal stem tubes (much more money...) are good---Paul
I've heard there are tubes that are supposed to fit 30X3 1/2, and 30 X 3. How can this be? Sounds like a dumb idea.
Agree with Paul. The rubber stem tubes don't last very long until the valve stem turns loose. Then there is no air inside the tube any more. Doesn't work so well.
If you have original metal valve stems then you can cut off the rubber stems and have something to use. The rubber is synthetic so patches don't stick well.
Here's the procedure Royce is talking about:
Don't think you can shop by "brand" these days.
Best tubes are ones with lots of thick rubber. Rubber stems are OK, but metal stems are best.
This tube is what can be called OK, the rubber stem is well made, round, not thick at the base. And good seal area, this tube came from Universal Tire, is marked with mfg. "Made in EEC" (European Community somewhere )
30 x 3 1/2 and weights a good 2 1/2 lbs. Healthy tube IMO.
This tube is generic T vendors, no mfg marking or country or origin, 30 x 3 1/2 and is puny at 1 lbs.
And that puny tube has thick base rubber stem, marked 'Radial' on the outside, so it is a common radial stem, and that thicker base sometimes gets stuck in the felloe hole and won't let the tube seat well in the clincher rim.
So, shop around, and ask the vendor to give you a weight on that tube, so you know you are getting your money's worth for a thicker tube that will resist deflation longer.
I know metal stem tubes are more expensive than rubber stemmed tubes, but if saving the labor cost was no object, wouldn't buying a tube with the metal stem in place, work just as well?
One problem I've seen with the metal stem tubes for a T is that the bottom diameter of the valve stem is much smaller than the clamp in style metal valve stems. I install my own metal stems particularly on the wire wheels, so that I can re-use the stem on another tube if necessary. I don't see how you can do this with the vulcanized metal stem tubes.
I ordered new tires and tubes from a local tire supplier in June. The tires came from Coker and I am reasonably sure the tubes did too.
The rubber stemmed tubes I mounted in 1980 with a set of Garfield nylon tires (which still look almost new by the way) weigh 2.25 lbs. These were mounted without flaps on rims with marked corrosion. In 35 years I have had one flat. Even so, flaps will be installed with the new tubes.
The new rubber stemmed tubes from Coker weigh in at 2.75 lbs. The base of the stems are slightly larger than the 1/2" hole in the rim but they seem to enter completely and seat ok.
The answer to the NEW metal stem tubes is NO! First, the stems were never vulcanized to the tube, ever. They were secured to the tube with a bridge washer and a nut, AND, the stem was a smaller diameter than the new ones. End of discussion.
I have been buying the heavier tubes and found leaks where the stem is vulcanized to the tube on some. On others the valve itself has a very slow leak,on these I use a metal cap with rubber seal.
Thanks for the link Mark. I think that is what I have to do as well..Jim
"End of discussion!"
Geez Larry, I think Dan and Jim missed the message.