How to get the shut off valve out of the '25 oval tank

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: How to get the shut off valve out of the '25 oval tank
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Moorehead on Sunday, September 20, 2015 - 07:58 pm:

I have beat, banged, cussed and still can't get the sweet potato out of a perfectly good galvanized tank. Attempts to remove have been unsuccessful. The valve leaks and needs to be replaced.
Any ideas how to get it out? The tank is still in the car and while the leak is not bad, it still smells up the garage unless the valve is closed, then no leaks. Probably not real safe either.
Thanks


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Richmon on Sunday, September 20, 2015 - 08:08 pm:

sometimes if you spray Brake Cleaner on the threads is will penetrate whatever goop or dried varnishes from the old gasoline and allow you to brake it loose. Watch your eye!!!! will take several application, but may work. Also be sure you get a good pull on the wrench and hold good steady pressure on it for awhile, that's always better than jerking on it.Heat always helps, but MIGHTY DANGEROUS!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les Schubert on Sunday, September 20, 2015 - 08:12 pm:

Tom
Can I back up here for a minute. You say it leaks. Where does it leak? I can suggest some fixes maybe


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James J. Lyons III - West Virginia on Sunday, September 20, 2015 - 08:24 pm:

Tom,
I had the same problem in my 25 coupe. I finally had to resort to taking the tank out where I could stand it on end, and then going after it with a pipe wrench. It put a few cleat marks in the sweet potato part, but I had to do something.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Sunday, September 20, 2015 - 08:38 pm:

I had to do the same thing on my 24 Coupe tank years ago. Removing the tank was the final option.

When you do this you can get a good angle with a good wrench on the shoulder of the valve.

It worked but using a pipe wrench will definitely do it as James L mentioned.

Use a wire brush to clean the area where it screws into the tank. You can use some type of penetrant that might help.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Monday, September 21, 2015 - 11:00 am:

I wonder if a heat gun would help any, in addition to the advice above?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Henry Petrino in Modesto, CA on Monday, September 21, 2015 - 11:29 am:

Just a thought (I know - use the right tool for the job!):

If you have a basin wrench, try putting it on the potato then use a pipe wrench on the basin wrench handle. If it works you've saved the trouble of removing the tank. If not, nothing lost. This strategy has helped me from time to time in tight spots.

Good luck!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By charley shaver- liberal,mo. on Monday, September 21, 2015 - 12:08 pm:

i dont think you need to take it out! lape in the valve taper with laping compound that should take care of the leak !! charley


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Monday, September 21, 2015 - 01:10 pm:

I'm with Les and Charley.

Figure out exactly what is leaking and fix it without removing the sediment bulb. There are many places where it could leak - shut off valve, petcock (valve handle and and where the petcock screws into the bulb), around the circumference of the screen cap, fuel line fitting, etc.

If the valve itself is leaking, after you lap in the valve taper, lubricate it with bar soap or fuel valve lube.


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