O.T. 1928 Chevy 4 Cylinder Bearing differences

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: O.T. 1928 Chevy 4 Cylinder Bearing differences
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting, Clare, Iowa on Monday, September 21, 2015 - 06:36 pm:

Pictures


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Daron - Brownsburg IN on Monday, September 21, 2015 - 07:27 pm:

Herm,they look nice.I have several 28 Chevy engines,but at least one of mine has, like 1/4 inch spacers between the rod body and cap. I don't see that here?? Guess if I'd look closer I could see these are the main bearings.I think some of mine are on bronze inserts.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary Tillstrom 30 miles N of Memphis TN on Monday, September 21, 2015 - 07:49 pm:

Nice pictures Herm. I may get run off the forum but it appears Chevy had a better idea than the better idea people when it came to thrust bearings. Even if a guy doesn't like the center arrangement, the 360 degree bearing surface would have done Ford well to copy. Nice work!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Monday, September 21, 2015 - 10:28 pm:

I have thought that any T blocks I have done in the future will have full 360 thrust on the rear, also put babbitt locking holes along the part line like Tom does for the Model A blocks.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Owens on Monday, September 21, 2015 - 11:27 pm:

Herm, You do beautiful work. Almost make me want a chebbie motor. At least the crank and your work. Scott


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting, Clare, Iowa on Tuesday, September 22, 2015 - 12:41 am:

Jack, the rods are the only ones that takes the spacers. The mains, on 4 cylinders have .006 brass shims on either side.

The rod metal spacers are .101 thousandths thick, with a .006 thousandths shim added to that.

I have the rods to do yet, but we are looking for more rods of a certain weight to make a set, so they can balance the set. When I get them done, I will put on the pictures here.
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Mark, extra Anchor holes is a waste of time.

The ones that are in there already, are plenty.All the anchor holes do is keep the babbitt from turning.

What keeps the babbitt in, is a good peening job, Only.

You could make the block look like swiss cheese, and the babbitt would still break up, with out proper Peening.

Herm.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les VonNordheim on Tuesday, September 22, 2015 - 01:09 am:

Beautiful work...I have seen a 28 chevy block mounted on a model T pan utilizing the T transmission and hogs head. For those of us that like something different....it was a neat set up. As I remember, it was very smooth and performed well. Chevy has oil pressure to the main bearings and a strong crankshaft.
I have modified a 28 chevy crankshaft to fit in a T block which was a modification that was performed many times in the past. It requires about the same amount of work as installing a model A crankshaft.
Today, buying a Scat crankshaft is a much easier way to go.
Herm, you do great work and I have a lot of respect for the knowledge you share with us.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Frank van Ekeren (Australia) on Tuesday, September 22, 2015 - 02:42 am:

A very nice job Herm,
but not that it matters and no way reflects on your work, but we must call a 'spade a spade' that's not a 28 block. 26/27


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