Just acquired a 26 speester and want to see if I can get her to turn over before I disassemle for restoration. She's got a L4 in her with the swivel on the needle valve. I haven't found a picture or image yet of the choke linkage, but am speculating that the long square ended choke rod from the dash just slides in and out of the swivel thingy and that some sort of smaller linkage is attached between the long rod and the actual choke butterfly. Kinda correct?
Any image or photo of this connection so I can see what parts I need? There is nothing but some clip remnants on the long rod and nothing on the choke valve to connect the two, if indded, they do get connected.
I'll hang up and listen.
These should help show the parts needed. The 4129 rod comes in lengths for body styles, you can cut the long one short if needed, that rod has square shank at the lower end to fit into the square section of the portion above the universal joint. The choke wire can be made easy with piece of welding rod. When you pull on the choke knob, the long rod pulls up the finger holding the wire, and when released, that long rod collapses into the short portion above the universal.
Factory drawing for the NH carb, but similar with your Kingston.
Thanks for the images. I've got the long rod and full seatid in the swivel base of the carb, the knob sticks out about 1/2" from the dash. I may be missing a connector to the choke plate.
Does pushing the rod from the dash IN or OUT set the choke? With the choke in the plate wide open and even with the car frame, is the rod knob flush to the dash or a few inches out and pushing it in sets the choke?
Right now I have no additional park on the choke plate, just the one hole attched directly to the choke valve and I'm not feeling how pushing the long rod in or out will move that choke valve unless ther is a additional connector.
Choke is always a "pull", not a push. The butterfly in the intake of the carb is normally open, you have to pull that butterfly closed for choke.
The butterfly (choke plate) is controlled with the bell crank on its shaft. Your carb should have a bell crank like shown in the L4 photo in my post above. There should be a spring inside that bell crank, it holds the butterfly normally open (no choke). When the bell crank is lifted up, the butterfly should close (choke).
The lifting of the bell crank is by the wire on the lower hole of that bell crank. The upper hole is for a wire to go to the front of the T thru the radiator for hand cranking to hold the choke closed.
The long choke rod 4129 and its knob sits on the dash. Should not stick up much, maybe some like 1/4" or so. When you "pull" on the knob, that pulls the rod out of the 4131 shaft connector on the carb adj. high speed needle valve. When the rod is pulled, it carries the 4591 with it, because a cotter pin is under the 4591 running thru the 4129 rod. That pulls the wire 4592 that pulls the bell crank up and closes the butter fly and creates the "choke".
That 'male' rod 4129 is sq. on the end, and rides inside the sq. shafted 4131 'female' socket to the universal. Reason for the sq. is to allow the round rod to turn the universal and thereby twist the adj. high speed valve for lean or rich carb setting.
Choke knob on '26 touring dash
I'll post a photo of what iv'e got a little ltaer, but it certainly looks like I'm missing some linkage clips or brackets down at the choke plate as I only have the single direct arm that controls the valve, not any additional parts to attach the down rod to to operate the choke correctly. After I post the photo, if you can help me identify the parts missing, I can try to locate them from a vendor. Since I have the core, a rebuilt L4 is not too pricey, maybe I'll just get my hands on a rebuilt and start with something I know is operational.