The pads in the top of my roadster were coming apart so I got some new ones but I wasn't ready for this

or this

But these straps don't even line up

then when I looked at the back it looked like someone had one good (?) pad and split it in half then split the webbing straps and moved it in line with the pads...


now I guess I will be calling Don Lang and see if there are top installation instructions I can download for a 27 roadster so I can put it back together right

No Installation instructions to download does someone have pictures of how the pads and straps are supposed to look when installed correctly on a roadster?

The rear straps should be positioned so that they hide the seams of the rear curtain when the top is up. The longer, front straps are positioned 12 inches out from center on both the front and rear bows.

Here are instructions for the straps and pads, quoted from the instructions that came with my Classtique roadster top kit:

"3) Install the long top straps - Mark for center on the front and rear bows, then mark 12 inches to each side of center of both bows. On the front bow, tack the straps on the 12 inch mark, bring the straps to the rear bow and repeat, you will need to raise the rear bow."

"4) Install the rear short straps - Measurements are needed from the rear curtain, which is made in three parts. Lay out the curtain to full length on a table and measure the distance on the top center part, seam to seam. For example, if it measures 45 inches, mark 22 1/2 inches from center on each side of the rear bow. The bottom of the curtain is measured the same as the top of the curtain, mark these measurements on the wood tack rail where the upholstery backrest cover has already been installed."

5) Rear curtain - Trial fit the rear curtain to the car, adjust the straps as needed if the rear curtain is not lining up, then remove the rear curtain and set it aside.

"6) The top pads - Remove the cotton pad and jute strips from the pad cover, lay the pad cover front to rear on the bows, 2 inches to the outside of the long, front straps. For proper layout, the pad should only lay about 2 inches over the curve of the bow, the balance of the cover should be towards the straps. Pull the opened pad tight front to rear and tack to each bow. Lay the jute webbing onto the open cover, pull tight and tack. Lay the cotton pad on next, cut the excess cotton off at the top of the front and rear bows. Close the loose cover material over the pad and tack to the bows. Cut off extra material. If you have not done so already, tack the long straps to each bow and cut off the excess."

Remember, the straps should be tight when the top is up so that they take the tension, not the top material.

Hope this helps!

Here are some pics I took when I was installing the top on my 1924 cut-off pickup. I couldn't find any pics showing the pads in place before the top went on.

Thanks Mark Now I know why my seams in the rear curtain were always visable so what I thought I could get done in a weekend is going to take 2 weekends and I always thought it was odd that the drivers side on the top was 1 inch lower than the passenger side. Well the wife says it will keep me out of trouble

LOL! Do you have new bow wrap as well? It looks like your bows could stand to be re-wrapped.

Be sure to get in front of and behind the car and give the bows the "eyeball test" after you have the straps tacked into place but before you staple or tack them down for good. The relative tension of the straps have a big effect on whether the bows line up correctly, good luck!



(Message edited by cudaman on October 02, 2015)

Hoping to get time get my engine back together

Two days into the month - not much. I am finishing some long-delayed fairly extensive repairs to a section of the west wall of the barn where my 27 touring will spend the winter. Redid some poorly-done wiring in the barn as well.I Plan to remove it's instrument cluster (such as it is) for replating (Nickel), will pull the right front wheel for a complete sanding and refinishing.

Spent some time gathering items on the "take along list". Things that should be in the T for touring. Baling wire, breaker bar, and brush for washing parts to tire tools, Vise Grips, and water.

Hunkered down due to crappy Ohio weather. Steve, per a previous post re Hershey weather here's what transpired here...last Friday 9/25 they were saying sunny and 70's for this weekend. Per usual, a 180 turnaround...high winds started in Thursday evening, still going strong today and rain all day. But Sunday is at least supposed to clear out and be "seasonable"! Like I said, what they say a week away will turn out to be the opposite. So hopefully that "pre-week" Hershey forecast that wasn't looking good will turn out great!

Got the rad back on. Hooked up the spark and have to pin the gas lever before I put the hood back in. It's been off sinse January. Only 3 coils are a buzzing so tomorrow I have to find that problem.

My truck left Dave Huson's place yesterday a little heavier than when it arrived. Now I need to unload it and find a place to put some rear radius rods, steering column, tie rod and front axle!

Decided to get an early jump on winter, and pull the motor to rebuild the transmission. Am also going through the entire engine to see what other goblins might be lurking inside while i have it apart...

After splitting half cord of wood get the band refines and finished up the trans
Was a busy day
Tommerow finish up the hogs head and hopefully get started on the cam

Took a break from working on my coupe and took the tourer for a drive to a car show. Lots of 50's - 70's cars but still quite a few old ones.



They had a mini swap meet as well, first site I walked past and I spotted a wheel puller. That can replace the homemade one I have. Didn't expect to find T parts at a show like that.

Spent most of the day putting away (trying to decide where to put) yesterday's auction haul, getting ready to head for Hershey.

Good score David. I have never seen one like that, using a bar to turn the screw. Most have a big bolt.

Allan from down under.

Got home from a month in Indiana and went to a swap meet/car show/car corral, Sunday at Bushnell, Fl.
Lot's of goodies.

Bought an unusual '25 Model T fordor sedan to both keep it from hot rodders and fix it up to resell. Hasn't run since '79. Unusual in that it's transitional. VIN is 11,8xx,xxx and it has a late transmission and cover but no bolt bosses on the back of the block. I'm told it should have the same VIN on the frame. Will check later today. Probably early 70s restoration. Will need top and upholstery. $5,000 after I get it running.

David Henry that's one nice puller

Stopped by Gary's at Pico Wheel. Dropped off some new tubes that I had forgotten last week. He had just finished straightening my worst wheel and will be going after the cracks. He sez they are fixable and will work well. After seeing the first pair, I have no doubt.

Replaced bad upper rad hose on the '20 runabout. Ran errands, got flu shot, got our hair cut, spent money at Menards (incidentally they already have ALL the Christmas stuff out...good grief). Back home to work on the '20 as all of a sudden yesterday it was not running worth crap, after a great first 20 miles or so. In fact, it won't stay running at all now. I'll figure it out eventually.

Fiinished transmission re-rebuild. Fired it up and drove it last night. Then put on about 30 miles today. Very happy with the results.

Silver soldered the broken sediment bulb arm. Also ground to fit the housing with my favorite compounds.

Hood is on the car for the first time this year. Filled up the rad after putting it on and ran the engine for 4/5 minutes till it died from the fuel running out. Next work is pull the old tank, paint the brackets and put in the new tank.

Last Saturday I oiled the front and rear axles, turned the grease cups, checked the oil level, coolant level and fuel level and loaded the T on the trailer and took it 50 miles to the beginning of a tour to the Rancho Penesquitos adobe house which is an old Mexican land grant in California before it became a part of U.S.A. Had a good tour with 5 other T's and a couple moderns. The weather was very hot, around 100 F The T who followed me thought I coasted to all stops. I said, No, I used the brake." Anyway, the stop light wasn't working.

So yesterday I fixed the light. The contacts were too far from the bulb.

We drove the T's about 50 miles that day and none broke down! There was some gurgling in the cooling systems after shut down, but normal for driving on a hot day.
Norm

I drove my Non-Doctor's coupe to the Doctor's office. I still see folks calling them Doctor's Coupes. 3rd Wasp sting. 1st Dr. visit. 3 weeks of swelling on the last one. Benadryl seems to be the thing to do. (What have you done? September 2015)






Stopped at parts stores for a Gas Line (Brake Line). The first place only had Black colored ones. I wanted zinc coated ones as they look like the original steel and are stronger than copper. When I told the young man at the second store that I was glad they had the zinc ones he told me "Yes, that is a protective coating they put on to keep them from rusting". What will they think of next. ;0( I bought a couple extra for future projects. We take it for granted these kinds of things will always be around.

Just rambling

Lefty

Suddenly my pickup was one eyed in low beam.. New bulb needed? No, it's the headlight socket that's bad, one of the springs has lost it's springyness - I wonder if that's a common problem?
Might be a repro, the known original I'm holding besides in the pictures is a little different in details. There's a lot of current going through the spring, maybe it was building up heat that annealed the spring?
Got an original on the shelf, so it was a smooth repair - and any reason for taking the Ford out for a spin while the weather still is OK is a good reason

I've been working on restoring my T since June (before that, it wast just try to fix it while trying to drive around a bit). Yesterday, I installed all the overhauled parts into the frame and started up the rebuilt engine for the first time. It ran great considering I had to feed gas in a little at a time (no tank).

Thanks for looking!

Installed bands yesterday, odds and ends repairs today, button up tomorrow.

Disassembling, cleaning, and painting the original Rocky Mountain brake assemblies that I bought from Layden Butler. All the parts were there except or the springs, I have some springs on order from T-bay that should work well on the adjusting rod.

I also received a copy of the first page of an original set of instructions from Larry Smith, I am posting it here as a service to others, thanks Larry!

I finally got an original steering wheel, sandblasted the spider, painted it and installed it. Got a new acorn nut for the center from Lang's - the "fat man" steering wheel that I replaced was held on by just a regular nut. My '27 looks more like a real T now. I am in the process of refinishing the wood on the old steering wheel. I plan to use it as a wall decoration.

Awakened my '14 runabout from a 53 week slumber to prepare it for a HCCA tour this week. Installed a gel cell battery, poured 3 gallons of gas into the tank, choked it 4 cranks with the ignition off like Royce taught me and, low and behold, got a compression start! Now it's brass polishing until Wednesday!

BTW, I appreciated the NAPA brake line part number from Richard (Lefty?).

Zachary - your car is looking great!

Polishing brass ? Every time a good patina starts to set in, some clown gets
it in his head that removing it would be a good idea ! Wassup with that ?

Mark...thanks for posting the R.M. instructions. I'll figure out a way to just print them out. Other than that, all I did was get my recently acquired and freshened up NOS '13 windshield assembly installed on Clarabelle (obviously the '13!). She looks so much better now without that otherwise nice looking '14 windshield that's going to Florida onto well, a real '14!

Zachary D. -- I looked at your profile page and went to your website. Your woodwork is outstanding!

Before: (3 years ago)



After: (today)





painted wheels and mounted new tires.

Next step is to drop an engine in and then sell it.

Derek, your truck looks fantastic with black wheels!

Not much going on here (lousy job taking all my time) but I hope by the time I go to bed tonight I can have all of my head bolts sand blasted and painted. That's something, right?

Got trans on my motor rebiulders and got brake cross shaft done had take three bad ones make one good one

Herb Miner came over with his partner Tim and George Clipner too, to help me pull my engine last Saturday. Remember my little problem with the missing magnet plates? Found them! One was clinging to one of the magnets



and the other was lodged in to sup, where it could hit everything as the engine ran.



The one that was clinging to the magnets took up frequent flyer miles and took it on my magnet ring.



Herb gave two magnet rings from his stash, the good ring was missing a coil winding, the other is not good enough to use but one of the coils is, so we're going to find it a new home on the other ring.

As it turned out, my trans was pretty much shot also, so Herb again gave me a really good used trans from his stash, the drums look really clean, almost new.



But I'm going to have to get at least one new wood band for the transmission. My old brake drum was so worn out that it was nearly impossible to get it adjusted to where it would stop the car...at all.



So I adjusted it tighter, finally ended up scorching the band and it wore out quick, the rest look fine though.

Got to do some clean up on my engine, some painting and get some new screw for the magnet plates and some new gaskets and then it's reassembly time.

Derek, Your truck looks terrific ! Sell it ? Wassamattayoo ?

If you need a buyer, contact me. I am asked on a semi-regular basis to sell mine.
I might have "a hot lead" when you get around to selling.

Today I finished up a Sure Stop brake installation on a 23 touring. Assisted my partner with front disc brake conversion on our unlimited class model T hill climb racer. Brought a 25 Dodge Brothers truck in for brake and electrical work. As usual, working other people's cars. Working on my own stuff doesn't pay as well.

Martin,

For your brake band issue, I would really have a look at your brake pedal cam. What you experienced is a classic example of a worn out cam.

I agree wholeheartedly with Jerry. I had a situation where I couldn't adjust the low pedal band properly and effectively. One thing led to another and I eventually removed the hogshead and replaced all the pedal cams with new ones. Works fine now & I should have done it sooner.

In an extreme case with Kevlar bands, you can over tightened the band, overheat the drum and tear up the whole transmission. Fortunately, I had wood bands, fixed mine in time and had no serious problems.

Keith

October-started thinking that maybe I should get a Model T, found this site, started reading...

Dear Colin,

You are in dire danger! Model T's are addictive. Run, do not stop until you find one. The addiction is also it's own curative! Welcome to the madness.

It was not the plan that I should do much work with my newly bought ½ton roadster pick-up, but on a 240 km (150 miles) trip to a fair, i blew a connecting rod bearing crossing the Great Belt bridge.

Forensics are outstanding, but obviously a lubrication issue.
Here we are waiting for towtruck on the evacuation area on Sprogø in the middle of Great Belt.

Started disassembling an engine I "thought" was free to turn. That is the assumption when I bought it and was told. Turns out, it doesn't. This one will be for my power unit, so I will be scrounging some used parts---probably a set of pistons when I figure out the size.

I am going to attempt to pull the trans and crank out through the mag ring opening hopefully tomorrow.

I went for a drive today. It seems that over the eight years since I got into this I've spent a lot more time working on T's than driving them. I intend to fix that. So today's drive was to the county seat, Winfield, about ten miles north. I had to go to the bank, the post office, and do some shopping. But the main thing was the bridge.


Yesterday I read that the 14th Avenue bridge over the Walnut River, built in 1928, is to be replaced. So I wanted to get a picture of it while it's still there.

The car ran fine, but on the way home my $20 bike speedometer quit working, so I couldn't tell how fast I was going. It turned out that the magnet attached to the wheel, which activates the sensor, had fallen off somewhere along the road. So I have to install a new magnet. I intend to be sure it's better attached than the first one.

I did a little whittling this morning.



There is a lot to consider in assembling my Non-restored '14. What patina to save and what to clean up. The old paint on the steering column was great but the shaft and levers were rusty. I wanted to preserve them so I sanded the rust off and will apply some flat black and a little dirty/rusty water to match.



I was luck to find a nice old column. It even had a usable block and the original bolts.



The steering gear box had a broken lock screw in it but I was lucky to persuade it out.



On with the fun.

Rich

Worked some more on my "good" engine for the power unit build. I managed to get the trans off the crank, the crank out, and two stuck pistons out. Got the other two soaking. One I managed to get to start to move, so I have some hope. The other is going to be a bear, it might have to get broke out.

Took the Stromberg OE-1 off the Zenith intake manifold and put an Stromberg M-1 on in it place. I just got it in the mail today. Cleaned out the cob webs and mounted it. Car starts and runs. The OE-1 is a great carb but just a little too much for my engine (and AC brakes ). The OE-1 runs great ONCE I get it started and good gas mileage but I find myself going just a little to fast! Engine has original size valves, advanced cam gear and touring cam bored out to 60 over.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272012653792?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STR K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Will pull it back off later and do a better clean up. Right now I am checking the float by leaving the gas on for a while. So far seems ok. Except for swapping the choke to the outside and moving the throttle lever to fit the rod better, if it don't leak I am not going to mess with it!

The full size battery in my roadster worked fine, but took up way too much of my scarce cargo space. So I bought a much smaller sealed battery that will ride under the car.


I strapped it inside the frame rail. In my big can of springs I found three extension springs that are just right for the job.


Why three? If one fails the battery will stay. If the battery fell out while I was running on magneto, I might drive many miles before finding out.

Hi Steve,

Clever installation, but heavens!, the bare strap next the the positive post is scaring the daylights out of me! PLEASE get some insulation in there STAT!!

It's not as close as it looks in the picture, but I'm going to shrink some rubber on it.

Steve:

You can put a small battery like that under the front seat, next to the gas tank. Put a wood block between the battery and the gas tank and between the battery and body sheet metal.

I have mine on the passenger side.

So far this month in no particular order. Made bkt and square head bolts to mount my Butler Coupler to my bracket that replaced the straps under the rear spring clamps after finding two good ones to replace the 2 that striped out.
Unmounted my nos spare tire to put a new HD tube with a metal valve stem in, then remount. Day four holding air so I think it will work.
Some light rewiring of the new wire loom under the hood, mounted the coil box, tested the 4 coils that came w/car, all seemed ok but found one that would go in the box hard, and never could get the car to run/start with it so now it runs with a spare coil from the touring. Ran it 3 times with-out coolant for about 30 seconds each. Mounted the Rad after fixing one side mount, added coolant and started and let it run till it ran out of fuel. Close to 5 full minutes.
Last month installed firewall and this mouth got the front end under the car and installed the rebuilt column, all nice and tight. NO slop. You turn the wheel and the fender dips right away. Got the hood on, still needs some adjustment to fit better. Installed the new Volt meter but still have to hook up that wiring and the wiring for the dash lamp, need to shorten the wiring to the headlights and hookup. Removed the gas tank, having the straps powder coated and will install this weekend. Looking for that first around the block drive.

Yeah, Steve, .... that bridge looks like it needs replacing. Any chance we can get
that river in some sort of pipe too ? No one needs to see that.

It may be silly of me, but I don't like the idea of battery and gas tank under cover together.


If they'd replace that bridge with a stone one like this I'd be OK with that. I don't know about putting the river in a pipe, though. That would be too much like L.A.

Jerome, what is a Butler Coupler? You lost me.(not hard to do). Dave

David - I'm guessing it's a trailer hitch.

Cut a keyhole opening in the end of a 2x10 and mounted it onto my workbench in preparation for disassembly of the Ruckstell that I bought on T-bay a month or so ago.

Hey Steve, why not just zip tie that battery in place?

Well Tim, a zip tie is a one time use fastener and a spring is (almost) infinitely reusable. This IS Mister Thrifty you are referring to, remember?

Springs are especially thrifty if you already have them lying around...

Once the axle was in the fixture, I couldn't help myself - that sure looks like a Babbitt thrust washer, it's got to go!

Actually, releasable cable ties (zip ties) are available at Menards, Home Depot and probably your local hardware store.

https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444431015171-c-6443.htm?tid=1850853243971467453

Also - if you think putting a battery next to the gas tank is silly, why would you mount it directly beneath the gas tank?

Did I say putting the battery by the tank is silly? Read again. "It may be silly of me, but I don't like the idea of battery and gas tank under cover together." I speculated that it might be silly of me not to. And you may be right. Below the tank may be no better. But that's all water under the dam. The deed is already done, and I can use the space beside the tank for something else.

Steve,

"...I can use the space beside the tank for something else."


Like a spare battery?

Two spare batteries - one on each side of the gas tank.

Sandblasted and painted a tire pump today, and then...


...installed a new speedometer magnet to replace the one that fell off yesterday. This time I made sure I staked the nut, so maybe this magnet won't end up decorating County Road 27 like the other one.

Managed to get all the pistons out of the "good" engine. #4 put up a fight and lost, it came out in pieces. Managed to get the cam out too. Just 6 more lifters, valve. and springs to get out and it'll be a bare block.

Hopefully someone will respond to my ad looking for some internal engine parts. Definitely need pistons now, will probably have to get oversized to get the bores cleaned up. Hopefully someone has a set from something used.

Update: Forensics confirmed it was "just" a rod bearing. It also revealed that there where no holes bored in the lower part to feed oil to the bearing as well as there where no dippers. I wonder when this engine have been looked into. It was put in the car sometime in the late 1970's or 1980's.
So now the hunt goes for a new rod.

Engine block is finally stripped down. I also pulled another one I have, and will take them both to work for a good pressure washing. To my surprise, the one I have been disassembling had no Ford script on the lower skirt of the block nor was it stamped with a serial number. It is a later block so a replacement must have been done at one point. It actually so far seems like a REALLY nice block. My other one is nice too ('22 stamped block) but has two broken head bolts that need to be removed.

We've had two of the wife's relatives here from Germany this week. Mother and daughter. Took 'em for a ride in Clarabelle ('13 touring) and they just loved it! Despite it being a very windy day. The daughter, who was really sweet, in particular couldn't quit talking about it. And now the car looks better with it's "new" (NOS) correct '13 windshield. Next, to correct the upholstery.

New bow wrap and new top cushions

From the other side (wife supervising in background)

Re-installed old top (reinforced where the nails go)


Found several of these when I removed the old top I suppose they are for getting around the metal bracing in the top bows but not having the special hammer to install then I elected to toss them!

Oh well 1 weekend project turned into three weekends I think I will have a bourbon & branch

You did a great job on that top, G.R.!

Put the '27 T touring away for the wintah. Pulled the instrument cluster (such as it is) to have it replated. When I looked at it carefully, I found that what I thought was corrosion was just crud. two hours of polishing and it looked great. I reinstalled it today. It doesn't happen often, but once in a while you win one...

Thanks Mark

Installed the motor in my father's 1900 Waverley Electric this afternoon.

He got motor back from the painter a few weeks ago.

We really lucked out and picked up a transmission scissor jack at an estate sale last Saturday for a few bucks. When we did a test fit prior to painting a couple months ago, we had it on four stationary jack stands. The scissor jack made for a slick and much easier installation.

Next we need to install the sheet metal covers which are currently at the pinstriper.

Drove the T past and waved at the people waiting for the sale at Fred Lau's to start.

Wow, Eric, show us more of that Waverly Electric in a separate OT post!

Steve, did you have a video of the Roadster kicking around youtube a while back? And... that picture on the 14th Avenue Bridge is worthy of the cover of The Vintage Ford. Just beautiful!

Removed two broken head bolts from a '22 engine block tonight. While at work I power washed both blocks I have been messing with. They both look super nice, and so far appear crack free.

I think I may build the '22 block for the power unit and save the blank serial number/ no script replacement block for my Canadian pick up--unless I manage to come across a "Made In Canada" good block in the future.

Jerry, I can't get onto Youtube right now to be sure, but I think this is the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nADanhp1jQU

I am rebuilding the rear axle in #904. This is the earliest style axle with "no rivet" housings and inner Babbitt bearings on the axles, and a Babbitt bearing at the pinion bearing. Nearly every part of this assembly is different from later Model T's.

Fortunately the Babbitt inner bearings were in perfect condition, as were the original babbitt thrust washers. The housings are also in good shape. This was supposed to be a good low mileage car, and the reports appear to be true.

A very good day today, got sheet metal the final prep for Pete the '12 P/U. From this...-to this...-And oh yeah, Constantine dropped in for a visit..I didn't let him get all messy like me!

This last week of October marks the end of my first year of Model T ownership and it’s been a memorable year and a blast. I’ve been involved with antique farm machinery for the last 20 years and have to say, the T is getting most of my attention lately. Through the year I’ve had to deal with a leaking exhaust manifold, bad manifold threads, replacing the muffler, learning what properly adjusted coils are, how to handle a roadside breakdown (failed intake valve retainer), knowing the difference between .012 and .032 valve lash, change tires, patch tubes, finding the best needle valve setting, all while enjoying over 500 miles in the T-lane. I’m kind of glad I got a driver for my first car, but also that it still gave me a chance to learn on several occasions.

The “what I’ve done” part of this has to do with leaking oil found after a 55 mile trip. It was not the longest run I’ve made but had a good portion on a state road where it would be best to keep up to 35-40 mph. Most of my touring is at the pleasurable 25-30 mph range. The car did good pulling some longer hills and was steady tooling along downhill at 44 (the max for my comfort!) On the way home I stopped in the gas station to fill up, and while doing a walk around checking things over I noticed more than the little oil drips it ever had before. Almost home, I made a mental note to look into it more when I get back. And when I got back I had oil smoke coming up out of the fire wall and hood louvers…hmm? I’ve got a steep drive I pull in low, so it does tend to get the engine warm but this was new. Sure enough, there was a lot of oil leaking and gave the undercarriage a nice oiling, including the exhaust pipe! The car came with the accessory sight glass for oil level and it was just up off the bottom cock; I keep it just off the top of the glass normally. I lost about half of my oil!

I looked further to find the reason for the leak. The mag post screws had all three come loose and the only thing holding it on was the aux oil line! Did not take much to get them all tight again. It got me thinking why they came loose and why don’t they have lock washers? I’m going to add some to help prevent that again. Must have been the long run on the highway that got them loose. Lesson learned about paying attention to warning signs, especially excessive oil leaks! Probably another few miles I would have been out of oil and drove my driveway with results worse than smoke off the exhaust pipe!





(Message edited by jleck on October 24, 2015)

Hey Tim was that a Rajo laying on the bench in the back ground of the one picture? You should of taken that home for Pete, he would of liked that extra boost of energy.

Joe, unfortunately I wouldn't know a Rajo if it slapped me on the head!! LOL....But Pete runs just fine enough for me, after having you rebuild his engine!

John, that's a nice looking touring there. I bought my first Model T three years ago a bit south of you, some little berg "down in the hollers" practically across the river from Wheeling. Think it was called Hamilton, just like the "other Hamilton" near Cincy. Be careful not to overtighten the top nut on your mag post, if it's the style I'm thinking it is, like on my '20, you can snap the post and poof, down it goes, often into the mag. When mine did, I was lucky, as it doesn't have a mag, it has that controversial Tru-Fire, but I was lucky enough to be able to fish the post out before it got ate up in the gears.

Tim, thanks for the mag post advice. When I was getting things back in order, I did check to see if the mag wire was loose, but it was OK- didn't touch the wrench to it. I'll definitely keep your experience in mind the next time I have to mess with it.
See ya on the road!

Tim;
Now I know what u look like, when i'm talking to u.
RDW

Took '15 to NASA Johnson Space Center for Safety Day / Car Show where I was example of how unsafe cars started out.

First a stop at Rocket Park ending day in front of Building 1 with NASA's Modular Robotic Vehicle.

Here is picture with NASA's Modular Robotic Vehicle. MRV for short.

I'm experimenting on just how many projects I can do at once.

First: getting the wheels rebuilt for the towncar. The one on it were so bad, they had pop cans and headless finish nails glued to the hub centers. When the hubs came out, the spokes fell apart. I'm also repainting a nice 09 steering column for it. Using that, I can actually fit behind the wheel. This spring, it'll get painted the correct dark blue.




Second: Working on my '22 centerdoor. I had a hard time trying to find wool broadcloth to match the original striped pattern. My car has the gray interior, so I found some as close as I could to the original. Here's the seats finished (a friend of mine did the work). Lower striped door panels are done too.



Third: While this is going on, I'm restoring a 1937 John Deere AOS (streamline orchard) tractor. I'm fitting new fenders to get it ready for a neighbor, who's a master metal fabricator-coach builder. He's going to make the batwings and citrus side skirts for it.

I delivered a WW-I Ambulance today to the Military Aviation Museum in Virginia Beach. Sorry, pics will need to wait until I get home. I don't have the means to post them from my laptop.

I'm in a wonderful hotel in VA Beach. It's right on the beach, with a balcony which looks down on the beach and the ocean. After seeing the room, I went back down to the front desk and extended my stay for another day & night. Walked to a restaurant 2 blocks away which features fresh seafood. I had a lobster tail dinner with 2 tails! It doesn't get much better than this!

Any Model T guys in this area?

I brought my car home from the my friend's paintbooth (garage) this past Wednesday. My wife helped me finish installing the hood lacing and the gas tank on Saturday. I also installed the dash and hooked up the electrical. Jim Mahaffey from GA renickeled the dash light mount and the door handles - he did a fabulous job. There was originally welting that went between the dash and the body, so I put some new material in there.

The dash has all new 12-24 oval head square-drive stainless steel screws that will resemble the original nickel-plated ones. On the firewall, you will notice that the electrical terminal has two extra bays. I asked the tech teacher at my school if he could have a student make one with his 3-D printer. The student also plays trumpet in my band and made an exact duplicate out of plastic. Those extra bays will be for the turn signal lights. The choke rod is still at the powercoaters, otherwise it would be in the picture. That's it for the update.

I gotta say everybody that this is the best post on the forum. I've learned something new every day of the month by just looking at what you're all up to. Wide variety of topics and plenty of pictures to go along with the topics.

Thanks

WOW Jim! You'd better be careful or you're gonna' turn your formerly green Tudor into a "trailer queen" that you'll be afraid to drive, or that your wife will no longer let you take outside in anything but "ideal" weather"! Sure looks good Jim, and I love the color,.......harold

Okay, one more thing,.....I notice two "extra" terminals on the usual stock 6-wire terminal block Jim. So whaddya' got in mind now,......a CD player or something I suppose, huh? Ha, ha,.....harold

Harold:

Thanks for the kind words. This is a 20-footer. I learned a lot from this project: I "learned" how to weld, "learned" to use body filler," "learned" to use spot putty and sand down primer (notice - all in quotes, because I am far from proficient). Living on a tight budget, I wasn't able to purchase better products in the way of body filler and paint. In addition, I originally hadn't planned on tearing the entire thing down.

The intent was only to repaint it; however, the more I got into the project, the more I realized how bad things were. For example, the dents were so bad on the back that there was 5/16" of bondo. I banged most of them out and filled them, but the bondo still "ghosted" through the primer and paint, despite the fact that it felt smooth. I used Omni paint, which took a LOT of coats.

I really like the color, though, and it is an improvement over the previous paint job. Keith McGowan, the former owner of my car and whose booth I used, described the paint job as being "painted with a broom." - LOL

Harold:

I didn't answer your question - the extra terminals are for turn signals.brake lights and an electric wiper, if I ever get one.

Ahhh,....three excellent safety items for sure! My '29 Model A Briggs Town Sedan has an electric wiper that the old fellow I bought the car from had installed. Only problem is that now, the upper half of the windshield that should open (important in hot weather for ventilation) will NOT now open! I sure don't like that, so check out things like shaft length and mounting method if and when you buy an electric wiper.

Hope to see you and the Tudor "on the road" come Spring Model T driving weather,........harold

I've been working on the vaporizer for my 27 coupe. I remembered reading a post from Stan about making carb tools out of old spade drill bits. Made 3 of them on the bench grinder for each seat / spray nozzle, not perfect but they did the job.

Jim Kelsey,
I had the exact same idea of two extra terminals on the block for turn signals, but printing the block was not something I would have thought of. I am trying to source some material so I can make a block somehow.

Allan from down under.

P.S. For the thrifty, zip ties need not be one use items. A small flat blade can be used to release the tie for another go around. The bigger the tie, the easier the release.

Dave, I thought I recognised that ring spanner as a Sidchrome item, and then checked your profile. I have a hobby/market selling tools at swapmeets, and Sidchrome tools, before they went off-shore, are the best.

Allan from down under.

Allan, I have the remains of 2 sets of Sidchrome tools, bought by my father in the 60's when he was an apprentice mechanic. The sockets have all mostly split from abuse but it's hard to kill the spanners.

Dave, if you need any replacements just let me know, preferably before Bendigo swap meet in mid November.
Allan from down under.

Been busy trying to get my spare Model T engine back together before the garage gets too cold to work out there.

Drove the '14 to my office this morning at 6:00 am.



Still dark when I got there and took the picture but we go off DLS time this weekend.

It was an absolutely beautiful day for a drive. Mid 60's to low 80's today but we will be in deep winter 40 degree weather before you know it.

Ken in Texas

The bike speedometer on my roadster was showing random numbers from single digits to eighties because the sensor came loose and was moving around. Fixed it for now. When I get my new wheels painted and installed I'll be putting on a real 1915 speedometer.

I haven't posted on these threads because haven't gotten much done in the last few years because of dealing with some health and family issues. Finally figured out why I have been wearing out front tires. I had tried measuring the toe in by myself a few times in the past and thought it was fine. I had my grandson help me the other day and found out the toe in was at 3/4". No wonder the tires weren't wearing well. Re adjusted the tie rod and now have 1/4" toe in. I think that will be MUCH better! Dave

Forgot to say, I really enjoy these posts! Keep them coming! Dave

October was a productive month for me. I managed to disassemble two engines block I had, Built some legs for my power unit and got the tires mounted , and the wheels mounted up for it as well as some other small details. Hoping to have it running by spring to tow behind the doodlebug and meet up with Ron at a couple of better shows in his neck of the woods (MA).

Speaking of the doodlebug, it got the mechanism for the snow plow revamped a little better, now the plow lifts up higher and I can put downward pressure on it if needed. I had a generator redone for the 'bug as well as switch it back to a timer and coils, with a fresh Fun Projects coil box rebuild. Next up is get the generator on and put a 6v battery in.

What still didn't make it on my list, was dragging my pickup out of the back of the garage. I want to drive it this year, in ten years I have owned it, it has gone about a mile and a half. Fall is the perfect weather for T's, I have some time off in November, I am determined to make this happen.

I've been putting Pete's (the '12 Roadster P/U) newly painted sheet metal back on him, slowly so as not to bugger up the paint. I'll have it done by tomorrow. Hope to have him on the road next week, as we have about 3 nice warm days coming.

Rich, I see you posted your response about seeing me not long after lunch. Hope the view didn't cause you to lose it!! LOL

And one last thought...wow has this cool monthly thread gotten long! It's really a neat way of journaling our work on our cars. Wonder if anyone would think/agree maybe splitting it up mid-month in a separate thread, don't know about you guys, but by now with all the pics, it takes a good 3-4 minutes to finish loading with my slow-poke Wi-Fi anyway! If not, just tell me to shut up!! LOL

Have a good day y'all!!

Finally got the head on my engine.
I broke a crank last year. That got this project going.
It has a Model A crank, Fronty head and Dan McEachern parts and help.
I did all the machine work and babbitting.
It has been fun but taking way too long.
Next one (if there is a next one) will have a Scat crank.

I have been busy on my '26 roadster which I bought in Augusta, Georgia in 1955. I have been working on it off and on since (mostly off). I finished the rolling chassis in 2013 but have been a bit slow with the body work as I am timid about it and realizing that I didn't have the necessary skills. In June I took it to the local antique car restorer to get it done. Well even with my help we didn't get it done but we did make progress. All the body work and paint is finished except the fenders. They will have to wait until next summer.

I'm making good progress on the rebuild of my Ebay small drum Ruckstell. I finished assembling and setting the clearances for the driveshaft (I used the Regan non-adjustable pinion bearing setup), the differential case and the planetary gear case.

The next step is checking the clearance of my new pinion and ring gears, and shim as needed.

Will Brown -- Your car so far is a beautiful piece of work. It is often tempting to take short cuts just to get it done sooner, but I expect you'll be glad you took the time to do it right when it's all said and done.

Will - Your car will be beautiful when it is done! Nice work.

Thank you Mike and Jim! My 5 year old grandson will be especially pleased!

Built up a few coils the last couple of days.

Before having to tear it back apart again, I got more recently-accumulated original parts for my early 1911 Open Runabout project in a pile vaguely resembling a whole car. Several forum members have been very helpful with supplying knowledge and parts.

Last night got the new tank in. Waited 10 days for the tank straps to be sand blasted and then powder coated. Checked in with the coater and it would be at least another week so I glass beaded then and rattle can painted all the hardware up to. Got is all in and hooded up the fuel line, the only thing yet needed is the cotter pins. Today I put in 5 gallons of UL, one first to check for leaks and when all seemed good dumped the rest in. cleaned up the garage-ie put tools away, removed extra stuff from the running boards and hooked up the headlights. Tomorrow with it foretasted sunny(today rain) i'll start it up after I Finnish up the dash wiring.

Walter, Looking good, Those fenders hood and splash aprons look a lot better there than in my shed ..