Pictured here is a broken starter casting, made from aluminum. Note the broken piece that gave one driver fits on a recent tour in Indiana. Fortunately, we were able to fish the broken piece out, only after it locked the motor up, but did not result in real damage to the engine.
If you by chance are using one of these after market starter assemblies, you may want to consider checking it out. This one came apart with the engine idling and not in the start mode. This is the third such starter that has broken on tours we have been on.
Has the 3 that are known to break always break in the same spot?
I wonder what grade of aluminum they are made of.
The only time there is any torque or stress on the nose end would be when the starter is engaged to start the car I would think. And that wouldn't be over a long period.
Were they on engines using higher compression heads, Model A crankshafts, 12 volt and etc?
Were they running 6 volts or 12 volts to the starter?
Broke in mostly the same spot with all running on 6 volts.
The original Ford starters work great. I have not figured out why there are aftermarket replacement parts when the original stuff works so well. You are not going to buy another one of those are you?
I had one of these fail in the same place this past winter while starting. It also locked up the engine. It was 6v.
I was first on the scene when the one posted here failed. When I saw the bendix had the engine locked then saw what type of starter he had, my first guess what that the aluminum nose piece had broken. That was verified after we got the bendix out. This one was the 12v version.
I'm now running an original starter.
When mine broke a chunk of the casting fell into the engine. I was lucky that I was able to wash it out the drain hole with kerosene.
Sorry, Kim is right. The last one we worked on was a 12 volt, not 6 volt as previously stated.
Why aluminum ? Does it eliminate the bendix bushing?
Warren, the bushing is still there nothing different , they are an adapter to the Delco or other that Becker uses, they have a lifetime warranty, I would call them and have it fixed, I had a slinger break and it hit the snout and broke it, I called Beckers they fixed it with no charges except shipping, it was 12 volt, it did not bend the shaft. If you are on 6 volt there is no reason not to use the original starter.
They probably use aluminum because of the cheaper cost in making the nose end. Is the whole starter unit made of aluminum?
These starters are GM units with a new shaft pressed into the armature and a new aluminum endplate with bushing added.
I have an early version that had a knurled shaft on the armature and it slipped. The later design is splined and holds up better. Currently that starter is shop jewelry displayed on a shelf in my shop.
It was sold to me by the elder Mr. Becker who mentioned the lifetime warranty. He then gave me an update to his medical condition and pointed out lifetime applied to his life, not mine.
Original T starters work great on 12 volts too - provided you put a set of long 2 gage battery cables on to limit current and provide a voltage drop. You can get a whole lot of folks telling you how it won't work, it will blow up, the bendix will break all the time, you will tear the teeth off your ring gear etc.
That has not been my experience.
My experience has been the same as Royce's .
I agree with Royce on this too. Remember to retard the spark and use lighter (regular cheap cables) and the starter and bendix should last just fine. Stock starters can also be rewired to handle 12 volts as well but I've not found a need to do that. A little over 20 years and a LOT of miles of 12 volt experience and I think I've twisted 2 bendix springs and had one bendix counterweight come loose. Some parts of Model T's are more rugged than we give them credit for.