Did the late 1926 or 1927 engines have lock washers and castle nuts without the cotter pins? It would take less time to assemble the pan to the engine this way.
When using the crankcase flange reinforcements #3118 and #3119 does one use longer bolts than the surrounding ones were the reinforcement is not present? Also, I put all the bolts in one can and cannot remember were the ones with the holes in the head of the bolt go.
Does anyone have a listing of what bolts go where when attaching the crankcase to the engine in the improved model(1926/1927)?
The cotter pins were dropped from the crank case bolts even before the improved style engines:
FEB 2 1925 Acc. 94, "Bolts, Nuts, etc." folder, Ford Archives
Letter from W.C. Klann to Martin and Howard:
"On Dec. 2nd, 1924 Mr. Martin and Mr.. Galamb O.K.'d building motors with no cotter keys in the bolts but using lock washers instead in the crankcase, transmission cover and cylinder block assembly only. Why not put this on the blue print? Please advise."
And yes, I think it makes sense to have slightly longer bolts at the corner reinforcements if you have. The bolts with holes in the head goes in places where no castle nut is used, like the lower two bolts for the u-joint (should be wired together) and the four bolts for the coil ring - they should also be safety wired. And you need to put bolts in the lower holes even if you haven't got any coils - oil may leak through the holes without any bolts.
Correct or not I always used lock washers on the nuts and bolts only between pan block and hogs head