After 12 years I finally have my 5 main aluminum T block. In the interim I had been able to get some quality iron ones cast, but the goal had always been to get a aluminum one. That has finally been accomplished. Obviously not machined yet, but that will happen this fall.
It will be set onto the pictured repro Fronty oil pan assembly and will also get the Fronty oil pump and side drive water pump and magneto drive. On top will go the pictured BB Rajo.
Here you can see what the crank and rod assembly looks like installed into one of the iron blocks
A work of art
That is amazing! Can't wait to see it done.. Planning some for market someday?
Thank you all for the kind remarks
Still Babbitt bearings?
I for one am in awe!!!! Dave
Amazing! Thank you for the update.......
Thank you for sharing this project, great to see the progress. Tom
How cool is that~!!!
Gorgeous! Can't wait to see the running pictures/video!
Drop dead gorgeous. You must have the patience of Job, Lord knows I don't!! That's why I was never a doctor..."I have no patience"....ohhhh, so bad.
Outstanding work, Les. We've been hearing about your work on a 5-main block for years now; glad to see it finally has come to pass. You should be very proud of what you have accomplished.
Shell bearings (which technically still have a thin layer of babbitt on the crank surface)
Boy oh boy. Mr. Ford would be impressed.
Wow Les, that's outstanding.
Drop dead gorgeous Les! Obviously not for use with a stock crank. Please comment on the 4 square intake ports on the aluminum block. MT500 legal?
WOW! Impressive for sure! Besides the four square intake ports that George House asked about, I noticed that each of the five main bearing caps has a hole on one side. The center main bearing cap seems to have a bolt or stud screwed into that hole. What's that all about Les,......???
Crank and rods by Crower
Square intake ports have proven to be more efficient than round. Obviously of no consequence with the BB Rajo
The holes in the caps are for oil pressure. The fitting in the one cap is for the tubing ("inverted" flare)
THAT would make a hell of an engine for a Sky Scout...
Yup, that was one of my plans when I started this project!!!
I always look forward to your posts, but this one is over the top!
Given all of the incredible work you have done in the area of Model T horsepower, have/would you consider reproducing some real pixie dust like a DO Fronty, or even better a DO Gallivan?
The un-shrouded valves in the DO layout plus the potential "high" RPM capability of your 5 main block would make some beautiful music in a Model T racer.
Thanks for all your work and inspiration.
Amazing! Great work.
Superb! So how many of these did you have poured? I bet there are some folks out here just salivating at the thought of being able to own one of these (or one of the iron ones for that matter). I couldn't do justice to one of these motors with any of my projects but I'm sure others would like to try.
I have two uncommitted iron blocks. I'm undecided as to making anymore aluminum ones.
D.O. Heads are really "cute". Not sure I want to take it on though!!
I think Les Schubert was Henry Ford in a past life:-) :-)
I really enjoy and appreciate a subject like this on the forum. It is clearly meaningful to the forum and to our hobby. Thanks.
Simply amazing. Les, I give you great credit to trying to improve T's without killing their personality. I wish I could afford a bottom end setup. It is just killer and looks extremely dependable in a stock looking exterior package.
Beautiful craftsmanship! As others have stated, thank you so much for posting the updates etc.
Hap l9l5 cut off
What is the weight difference from a stock block to this aluminum job with cylinder sleeves, etc. installed ?
Beautiful casting !
I can't believe this hasn't generated a hurricane of interest and communication. I'd like to see more of this kind of work. Thank you, Dave Sullivan Bellingham, WA
There is an old saying that goes like this. "Any thing worth doing is worth doing right." Looking at the photos the accolades
handed out are right on target.
A great job to be proud of.
You say a thin layer of babbit on the crank surface. Do you mean that the babbit is not on the rods, but on the crank? If so would you have to remove the crank and re babbit every time you need to replace babbit instead of just the rods?
Your engine looks like it would run forever and be a fast one. Certainly no more broken crankshafts.
Norm - When Les was talking about the "shell bearings", I believe he was describing "insert bearings" and when he said,..."Shell bearings (which technically still have a layer of babbitt on the crank surface"), I believe he meant a thin layer of babbitt on the surface of the insert bearing which contacts the crankshaft journal,.........harold