Just wondering if anyone has or is making rocker assembly's and manifolds for a 16 valve Roof head ? I will try to put pictures on later.
talk to Mike Bender on the covers-
I'd love to know how a set of competition exhaust manifolds could be had.
I've got one complete set of rockers, but they are mostly broken. I have one unbroken rocker tower and rocker arm assembly. Maybe a casting could be made? I was considering making my own rocker set to replace the originals.
I think Bob Scherzer made some Roof stuff at one time?
Morning, does anyone have pictures of the exaust and intake manifolds for a roof head and is it ok to use this site to try to contact the 2 guys that were sugested for the parts hat I'm looking for?
Sorry no luck with the pictures yet .
What does "mostly broken" mean? Seems like they could be repaired if pieces are still there. How did they get broken?...doesn't seem like it is easy to do....unless abused. Pictures?. Curious.
here are a couple pictures of what parts I do have . I am missing one of the valve guid pieces and all of the other rocker parts .
Sorry I have to figure out how to reduce the size of the file before it will upload. I will ask one of the kids to help latter.
There are two different exhaust rocker designs for the 16 valve Roof
I just had a set of covers cast for these heads. I can get another set done
Exhaust manifolds. I have the patterns for the low performance "dog leg" that connects to the stock exhaust pipe
The major issue with the type of rocker I have is the larger amount of strain they take. They are spindly and have no source for constant oiling. I assume the damage occurs when the rocker arms seize to the rocker shafts. The awkward side pressure and extreme pressure of compressing two valve springs causes the rocker arms to jam and the casting break. I've got broken towers, broken rocker arms on both intake and exhaust, both on the valve end of the rocker as well as the push rod. The other issue I've noticed is when the rocker arms wear on the shafts they begin to scribe different arcs. This could lead to failure.
Here is the type of Rockers I have. You can see from the photos the issues.
The nicest rocker assembly I have.
This is typical damage, the rocker tower is broken. I believe this is caused by a lack of lubrication of the rocker arms, and the pressure of the valve springs.
Broken and repair rocker arms.
Again severe rocker tower damage.
Rocker shaft wear, from lack of lubrication.
Yes, there are two (maybe more) styles of rocker assemblies. And yes, they need constant lubrication. I have been running one style successfully and have had no failures...with stock valve springs and attention to lube.
A poster had some made back in 2010
I guess I loaded about the same time as you...and missed your photos. You have the same style as I do..wonder what the difference in problems is.
I have several antique tractors that don't have top end oiling. They use a thick heavy felt pad that you soak with oil daily. They just lay on top of the rockers. Would that work in this set up? PK
Thanks for the help. The rockers in the picture are the same as the ONE that I have . The link from 2010 is very helpful . I will see if I can get ahold of any of those guys to see what they have.
Original Roof 16 heads had no means for oil to return to the engine/pan. The pushrods were 5/16" which were installed in the Ford valve guides and the guides in the Roof head. There is no path for any oil to leak back to the engine. You can see in Mike's photos that the pushrod acts directly on a screw head...this results in a *scrubbing* action and side loading on the rocker. I use a smaller 1/4" pushrod with ball ends which eliminates this problem and allows an oil path return to the engine.
You can see in the posts from 2010 that my late father put a comment on there with the second picture being of the re-fabricated rocker assemblies that we now have running on our model A head. They obviously don't look right but they are really strong and easy to keep lubricated.
They have zerk fittings for each rocker shaft which I grease up most times before we head out and put plenty of oil round the valves, springs, and anything else really.
Similar to what John said above, ours also has ball ends to help the action run a lot smoother.
I have a couple more questions on my Roof head project.
I'm wondering if anyone knows what valves fit in the 16 valve head . I have a few of them but they are in bad shape but at least I have something to match.
Also I'm am ready to go to the foundry to get the rocker supports cast and the set on rockers that I have but I am still missing the opposite rockers. ( I m not sure if I have the left on the right but that would be easy.) so I'm looking for a pair of originals that I can rent buy or use for my patterns .
I have not got the picture resizing thing figured out yet or I would post some pictures.
Thanks for the help. Jan
Given that you have some bad valves, you probably have worn valve guides also. I would replace all valves with oversize stems. I used standard stainless model T replacement/reproduction valves. I had to reduce the diameter of the heads and cut new seats...but it was not difficult on a lathe. But perhaps you have a Roof with the larger valves which may be model T size. It's a lot of valves.
Ford valves from vendors will work. For type A. B and BB. A and B type will need the valve turned down.
Type C uses much larger dia. Head. What head do you have.
Thanks , the head dia. Is 1.250.
You can use Ford valves (apx 1.5" dia) but have the head turned to size and grind the valve surface.
How many times do we have to say to use standard Ford T valves and reduce head diameter to Roof size?
Sorry ! I didn't see that post .