New guy

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: New guy
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Lloid on Saturday, October 10, 2015 - 09:28 pm:

I have been reading on this site for the last 3 years and just joined mtfca in the last couple of months. I finally bought rolling chassis and a 26 roadsters body. I can't wait to start on it..I just finished restoring my 30 model a coupe after 18 months of non stop orders from brattons. It's taken a little down time before I was ready to start on another ground up rebuild everything projects. I know from reading all of the posts that I don't know near enough about what it takes to build this car. I hope to be able to ask some questions as I go.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Noonan - Norton, MA. on Saturday, October 10, 2015 - 09:34 pm:

Welcome to the forum Tim, and ask away, that's what this site is here for..:-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Georgetown TX on Saturday, October 10, 2015 - 09:34 pm:

Welcome to the Model T world. I hope you get your car drivable soon. This hobby is all about using your car.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Saturday, October 10, 2015 - 09:41 pm:

Sounds like a good and fun project. My first T was a 26 Roadster.

I have a few questions about your project. Is the chassis and the engine also a 26? There were some big changes which only appear on the 26 and 27 cars. Is there a number stamped on the top rail right side behind the engine about opposite the transmission? If so that number originally was the same as the engine number and served as a VIN number. If you have this number it would be a better number for registration of the car than the engine number because engines are so often swapped. If you know where this number is located, and anyone asks you to verify the VIN you can show this number.


The 26 has a wider brake drum in the transmission and the pedals are wider. The reverse pedal is the same shape as the earlier cars, but the brake and low pedal were shaped very similarly to Model A pedals. The rear parking brake drums were much bigger than the earlier ones and had lined brake shoes. The transmission cover has two bolts at the top which are threaded into the back upper engine block. This was a great improvement and helped with keeping the engine and transmission in alignment. The front and rear chassis springs were also lower profile which lowered the car for a lower center of gravity. There was also an option of wire spoke wheels which look very similar to Model A wheels, but have a different hub and are not interchangeable with the Model A.

Anyway we would like more information about your car and perhaps some pictures.

Welcome.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Lloid on Sunday, October 11, 2015 - 05:48 pm:

I will get some pics next weekend and post them on here. Thanks for the welcome. This project came from a mail man's house near Knoxville TN. I was on my way to work in the Knoxville area and saw the 26 roadster body sitting on saw horses and a beautifully restored frame in the shop in the yard. I later that day asked the man about the body he,said it was for sale for $600 just the body itself no fenders or hood. I picked it up the next day. I found the frame at a old hotrod shop in TN and it had been sitting for forty years. They robbed the body for a street rod in the 70s. It is complete motor trans even rotted wiring and rusty brake rods,radiator with rotted hoses etc.So with that said it's none of it cherry..3 years later I have all of the used parts needed including a running engine and front and rear fenders running boards hood and decent wire wheels. The old wheels had rusted in half from water and mud in them all these years. The frame is straight and it roles good but the old motor is froze up. So this is where I am starting and will need a lot of help from you guys. Norm it does have the 2 bolts going into the back of the block like you described. I have to get the apron off out of the way to check the frame numbers. Thanks for the info. I work 70+ hours a week so it will take me some time. I did drop the wheels at the powder coaters Saturday and all of the fenders at the body shop. So it starts here for me.Thanks Tim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By steven miller on Monday, October 12, 2015 - 01:39 pm:

Do not take the apron off. The s/n Norm is talking about would be visible on the frame rail under the floor boards. Lift the wood and take a look.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Monday, October 12, 2015 - 02:26 pm:

Sounds like the body is not on, so Steve's suggestion might not help you--Aft of the motor mount (the arm that comes up and rests on the frame) on the passenger side, on the top of the frame rail. Most aprons do not cover the frame there, unlike the Model A Ford (which is on the left side). That's something I never understood--the motor number is stamped on the left side of the engine, why did they have the worker stamp the frame on the right side--someone would have to read him/her the number--or they'd have to look at it and then cross over the line to do the stamping. We will probably never know the answer to my question! :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Lloid on Monday, October 12, 2015 - 04:26 pm:

Good info David. I will check that number saturday morning. These are the things and information that I don't know about the model T but am intrested in learning. Model T s must be preserved to ensure they are here for another hundred years. Also for future generations to appreciate. Took a half of a day to get my engine on the stand and my oil pan cleaned up!!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown North Central Arkansas on Monday, October 12, 2015 - 09:21 pm:

Tim, welcome to the forum. Nice to have someone new. when you take photos try to show the door step plates (are they aluminum or steel), a good side view of the windshield post (if you have them), the inside of the door, the area just above the front of the door where it meets the cowl, and a straight on shot of the firewall looking to the rear. With these photos we can narrow down when the body was built. The serial number will be located on top of the frame in the area the handbrake is bolted to. It can be on either side. Early 1926 models do not have the number on top of the frame. There were lots of changes between early 1926 and 1927. Most of these changes do not really matter as to parts working or not. But if you are interested in making it "as correct as possible" there are little things to look for. Some people do not think the "little things matter" and others do. Its just a personal choice. There are other things to look for as to early vs late. The rear cross member can have a flange on it or not. The rear axle drain plug can be a hex bolt or have a square recessed hole. the radius rods can have one nut or two nuts where they meet the driveshaft tube. Headlights can be mounted on stems and have no cross bar, or mounted on stems with a cross bar under the light stem, or the headlights mounted directly to the cross bar. A lot of good pics will help. Please remember that we are not trying to "pick the car apart" Like I said, some folks do not care about the details, but others do. I try to help the ones that do care about the details of the 26-27 Improved models. But the main thing is have fun and be safe... Submitted with respect.... Donnie Brown ...


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