I am trying to figure out the best way to install the aftermarket dipstick kit and the directions are not clear at all. Does anyone have some photos of a completed installation they could post. Thanks, Steve
Is it this one? http://www.texastparts.com/mm5/manuals/T3069-Ak.pdf
Here's an earlier thread on the subject:
Plus some more:
Adding a dipstick??? What's next? - A distributor or water pump? (Just making waves ......)
He'll tell you what to do with your dip stick!
I like them. Installed on 3 T's and it beats dumping oil on the ground to see where you are at.
Besides, I'm not getting any younger.
I still have to get under the car to check the oil, but I don't have to dump oil on the ground.
If I would remember (I've forgotten twice already), the next time I change my oil I'll remove and re-install the petcocks so that the handles point out to the side (so that I can use the handy opening tool).
What's a little oil on the ground, more or less? Most of our T's mark their territory!
I like the dipstick idea too,.......the 2-petcock thing always seemed pretty crude to me. Even with oil running out of only the bottom petcock, you could still be nearly a quart low but you really don't know for sure how low.
My only objection to the Model T accessory dip stick is that I don't like the idea of drilling a hole in the splash apron. A lot of class A motor homes like mine have a dip stick, and because of engine location, the dip stick is about five feet long in order to have it easily accessible by opening the part of the radiator grill that opens at the front. Even with the very long dip stick, it works very well. Seems like a similar dip stick arrangement Model could be designed for Model T's so that the dip stick would be easily used by just opening the hood like nearly all other cars, trucks, motor homes, etc. After all, you have to open the hood to turn on the gasoline line petcock anyway, right? Just a thought,.....harold
Like this one?
Steve Rinaldo -
There are two that I know ....
1) the dipstick comes up thru the splash apron;
2) the dipstick comes up against the firewall inside the engine compartment.
Different sticks, different locations, different instructions.
The kit I am trying to install is the one that goes near the firewall, like the Snyder's kit above. Steve
Looks pretty straight forward from the picture alone. Really doesn't look like instructions are even necessary. Though I did read the caption and that explained it all.
Since posting this picture a couple of years ago I figured out that the tube should have some little clamps to keep it on. Open both petcocks to see the oil level, then close them in case the tube gets knocked off.
You don't have to crawl under. If the petcocks are turned with the handles facing the side, as in the first picture, you can reach them with an oil check tool like this.
Just keep in mind that ALL dip sticks and sight gauges will lie to you! The only fool proof method is the one Henry installed on the car, perhaps for a reason beyond cheap?
Not related to the dip stick but the petcocks will lie to you. You might open them and see no oil because they are plugged up. If you open one and nothing drips out always run a wire or nail in before you believe them. If you use the extension tool have a nail welded on one side of the cup to clean the petcock out.
I have the "Akuret" one on my car, and I like it a lot. It's very easy to use, and there's no danger of a broken glass as in a sight gauge. And no plastic tube to fall off.
(Message edited by coupelet on October 22, 2015)
Mike, the plastic tube will tend to not get lost if it's tied to the top petcock.
Refer to pictures and text at http://www.mtfca.com/cgi-bin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=331880&post=532688#POST532688
I close the lower petcock right away after checking the oil level, then empty the small amount of oil in the tube onto a rag, then push the tube back onto the lower petcock. This helps to ensure no false reading next time the oil level is checked.
I'm mindful of parallax error re the oil level and the position of top petcock. I don't open the top petcock.
I like the original pet cocks and view them as just another one of the T's charms, part of the experience. I do use a home made tool to open them without crawling under. Like hand cranking, there's a technique to it, but it can certainly be done without crawling under. I put my left knee on the running board and lean over and look underneath the fender and I can see to put the tool on the petcock handle. Probably takes less time than using a dipstick, as I don't have to do all the pulling it out and wiping it off business. My method probably would not work for someone with back trouble, but I have no trouble doing it, even with serious arthritis in my ankle. If I had to get on the ground and get back up, that would be another story.
I made my own dipstick with some copper tubing and brass fittings. Routed it up the firewall.
The dipstick itself is a piece of brass rod from the hardware store with notches filed on it for full, 3/4, etc. A copper "cap" is soldered to it to hold the rod in position and prevent any dirt from entering the dipstick tube.
This older picture shows a rubber stopper I used originally. Didn't work out as well as the copper cap.
That's very cool! I like it. Thanks for posting.
Looks great Bud, but where does the other end attach? Bruce
I would seem that any dipstick should be attached to the motor only rather than the firewall since the T motor is by design allowed to pivot on the frame. Notice the front pan fitting at the cross member is a pivot point because the frame is allowed to twist as necessary when the T goes at an angle over some culvert or large bump. I am not a fan of any dipstick arrangement that is fastened in any way that is not directly a part of the motor only. Too many motors have been lost on tours because all of the oil went out the lower petcock hole because of something that was not there to stop it due to a failure of some sort. 1/8" pipe threaded fitting is not very strong! Be careful when installing things there since the price you might pay is a destroyed motor.
Jimmy Walker (MTFCI youth driver award named after him) lost his motor due to a broken lower pet cock that fell apart while he was driving and by the time he realized it - too late!
The dipstick will be accurate if you install it so that it goes up right above the fitting into the crankcase. If it lays flat at that area, you would get an over full reading.
It's not hard to check if you have something under the car to catch a few drops of oil or do it on dirt. Just face toward the front of the car, get down on your knees and reach in with your left hand and turn the petcock. You don't need to crawl all the way under. Of course you might want to crawl under and turn the grease cups on the U joint while you are checking.
Other end of tube goes to a brass fitting that replaces the lower oil petcock. You can arrange the fittings so that you can retain the lower petcock, but I never saw a reason to do that.
Thanks Bud : I'm heading out to the shop to build one right now. Cheers : Bruce
STEVE JEFF; A friend of mine tried a plastic tube like yours on his Montana 500 racer and the plastic tube melted. I didn't see it but the the other drivers said you could see the con rod sticking though the side of the block. It had been a fresh motor by the way. Maybe if there is such a thing as a plastic tube that does not melt it would work.
Dave, you've got to close the petcocks after checking, then no more risk for oil leaks than usual
Once again someone wants to argue. What good would having the tube if you are going to open and shut the petcocks each time?
No, not arguing, just trying to explain
It's good because 1. You can tell more exact where the level is between empty and overfilled and 2. You don't have to spill any oil on some friends driveway when checking oil before going home.
The only problem is when the oil gets black and colors the inside of the plastic - then David Nortons idea to empty the tube after checking would help.
(Message edited by Roger K on October 26, 2015)
Sounds like a bunch of messing around than if you just check the oil as it was meant to be!
Roger, good thought to empty tube to also prevent stain.