I have an extensive collection of Nova Scotia license plates, every year since they were issued save for 11. Some are in not such great shape, and I would like to restore them. Someone had posted a video on this, but I can't seem to remember who. Anyone?
I believe there are some videos on you tube showing how some people do it. There has been a couple on this forum over the years. You might do a search and find it.
Steve Jelf made a good one.
Steve did a very professional looking job on this plate. This is something I might want to try myself but I didn't completely understand how to do the silkscreen painting of the raised lettering. What would I need to look for in the silk-screening equipment? Where would I purchase it? Would I need training to be able to use it?
Before you do the screening you have to do any needed body work: straightening, hammering out dents, priming and filling pits, etc. Usually you can find a rattle can of Rustoleum or other good enamel of the right color for the background. A used blank screen from a local screen printing shop should be cheap. The expensive part will be the 59000 series Nazdar enamel to screen on. You can probably get by without formal training but you will need to practice.
Thanks for the info Steve. I did some searching and found a place to buy the Nasdar enamel by the quart for $20.80, which is not too horrible at:
The screen you were using looked rather large for the job. Do they come in smaller sizes? Or does it need to be that big? I noticed you had the licence plate at an angle. Why did you need to put masking tape around some of the letters?
Well I did my plates with a rather fast and dirty method since as my dad used to say "don't make a job out it". Since I only had the one good plate for year of production which used two. I wanted to use these on my fire truck so I used it as my pattern to cast a second one in aluminum. By placing an 1/8" frame around it which allowed the aluminum fill mold completely. Outside of it being an 1/8" thicker it looks just like the original both on the front and back. I did fill in a couple extra holes that were on the original that shouldn't have been.
Because paints for these small runs get costly and hard to store I went to powder coating since small amounts are much easier to get and store then most paints. To get the finish on the letters without going to silk screening or having brush marks I first powdered the fronts in white and baked to bond the color. I then powdered it both front and back in the green. I then wiped off the green over the letters and numbers exposing the smooth white and baked again and was done. Original pictured on top, copy under. Not first class but the job was done from start of the casting to finish plates in half a day. Bob