I recently upholstered my '26 roadster and I'm worried about mice making their home in the cushions during the winter, I have had some bad experiences with them in the past and it was not very pleasant. I put the moth balls in direct contact with the cushions. After I did that I thought that maybe the moth balls might be damaging to the upholstery. Has anyone had any experience with this? As my car is in storage very far from where I am spending the winter it is not easy for me to change what I have already done-but not impossible.
Use Bounce to keep the mice away. Bounce is used when drying cloths to help the softness and fragrance.
Different brands are out there that do the same thing.
They come in a box that looks like a tissue box. They last for a few months. I had the same problem of mice getting into my cushions in my 24 Coupe.
No more mice in the cushions and upholstery so far.
I guess its the fragrance that does it.
Good idea. I'll try that next year. Since it is so hard for me to change the moth balls, I would like to know if there will be any problem with them damaging the upholstery.
No damage that I can tell. I put them inside the springs and anywhere I can poke them in.
If you think about it there wouldn't be any damage. When you dry your clothes and sheets in the dryer using the Bounce nothing happens to them.
We use them to keep the mice out of the linen drawers in the house.
We live in the country and mice do find a way to get in the house from time to time no matter what we do.
The scented kind do work the best. You can get unscented and scented in most brands. You can find them in the detergent aisle at the grocery store. Most everybody uses them for their clothes and bedding.
I use Irish spring. But an 8 pak and leave soap in box. Just open one end of box. At least car will smell nice.
I use a 5 gal bucket, some h2o, a coke can, coat hanger, peanut butter and a yard stick. They love it. Dan
If want kill those little #asdards just pour some coca cola in a dish near the car.
Rodents can't burp.
That'll work for rats and mice.
Personally the smell of moth balls takes me somewhere I don't want to go any more. Bounce for me.
Bounce works well for me as my interiors are leather or imitation leather but if you have a closed car with cloth interior mothballs are essential to keep the moths from feasting on your interior assuming it is wool or a wool blend.
You can get a plastic or metal ventilated mothball holder which is essentially a container with holes in it.
My dad always had mothballs in a "No-Moth" tin container on the floor of his 1927 Hupmobile year round to protect the original mohair upholstery and wool carpet from moths. Just take out the container when you are out driving, put it back in when you park the car back in the garage.
"No-Moth" is also the type of can that my parents use in their cedar closet and one that I typically see at estate sales. You can still buy the No Moth cans at the hardware store.
They also use a plastic Fuller Brush container that hangs in another closet.
Otherwise, put the mothballs in a coffee can or container with the lid off. You don't need a lot of mothballs.
Will, I've used moth balls for decades to keep moths and mice away. They work excellent. I put them in butter and cool whip containers underneath the seats and on the floor under the car. I have no experience with putting them in direct contact with the upholds try, but since they say you can use them between layers of clothes, I would assume that you'd be fine. In the future, I'd recommend the butter container approach as it has worked great for me.
If I remember right, the old upholstery kits had a warning in them NOT to let mothballs come in contact with the upholstery. This was for open cars. Dan
I suppose it is possible, but I have a 26 roadster and a 26 touring. I do have mice and rats in the garage from time to time, but have not had them in the upholstery. They would have to jump very far to get into the car. On the 26 both front and back seats have a metal floor under them and in order to get in they would have to scale the fenders, and the sides of the car. Or maybe jump from the rafters. Anyway, for the last 26 years they didn't get in. However, my son has had them under his hood in a Toyota pickup and they ate the wiring. I also had them eat wiring on a Datsun pickup many years ago.
Why do you guys want mice that smell good and cars that stink? Get rid of the mouse population and they don't multiply. I am not talking about traps inside (not a bad back up idea) but stopping them before they get in. I keep locked outside bait stations around my house and shop (google protecta landscape bait station). The outside bait stations work out to about $17each if you buy a case of 4 and the shipping is free. These will last for years and if you check and keep them filled you will never have a mouse inside. If you let them in then they can do damage before they are caught or killed.
I have been an exterminator for almost 23 years, 19 of that as a University employee and also a private business owner. I have never used dryer sheets, moth balls, soap...I kill them off and they don't breed more. If you keep fooling around they keep having babies and the army builds up.
I heat with wood and have a large woodpile right outside. I live in the middle of corn and bean fields, this is the perfect storm for rodents but have no activity because they are all dead before they can get in.
Close your borders and stop the immigration! Once they are in you have already lost.
We used to use poison (as in a bait station) but I found out that the poison filled mice are often eaten by owls, ospreys and other predators and they will die because they ate a poison infused mouse.
Take a moth ball/moth pill and fold it in a piece of torn off toilet paper and let its weight hold the fold-over closed...
Still use 100% wool blankets in the house...and have never lost anything else to vermin in the 'off' season.
That is incorrect Will;
First owls and ospreys are raptors or birds of prey and they feed on things that move, not dead things. The secondary exposure was mostly due to first generation rodenticides that had a cumulative effect but now poisons are a second generation compound that is not only an anti-coagulant (blood thinner) but also an ATP disruptive (they interfere with cellular resporation or the exchange of fluids between cells)and a single feeding. The compounds are mostly metabolized in the body of the animal and gone upon death.
If you eat a tomato and something else eats you is it eating a tomato? No, the tomato is digested and turned into something else by digestion. A few grams of mouse bait doesn't make a dead mouse a toxic bomb but the myth continues.
Pesticides are rated on what is called the LD50 or Lethal Dose of how many mg/kg of body weight will kill 50% of test subjects. A mouse that weighs a few grams is not comparable to a large animal and it only consumed a small amount of bait that was metabolized.
I get caught in this trap each time the subject comes up. I give up, put a bar of soap in your car then call me later when you have mice all over the house and garage and they are eating everything and you have had a house fire and pay me to stop it before they are inside.
we have a bad mouse problem with corn fields all around moth balls do help but it seems like only in small places that the fumes can fill if I dont put a few moth balls in the glove compartment of our trucks all the papers in there turn to a stinking mouse nest! Tim thank you for that info. like Will said I never put any poison outside because I dont want to hurt the good guys snakes owls and cats
The few times we left our summer camp vacant for weeks, and bar soap was available on the sinks (Irish Spring, Zest, Ivory) when we returned, the mice had eaten some of the bars.Don't know where the mice went...never found any bodies - but was not convinced they died.
Old fashioned mouse traps and peanut butter works quite well...but I do like Tim's idea - stop them from getting in.