Bending mouldings 101

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Bending mouldings 101
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Tuesday, October 27, 2015 - 06:07 am:

I have finished making the aluminium mouldings for my roadster. Thank you for the tips. I found I did not need to anneal the alloy. I bent it cold using this tool.

First I traced the outline of the sharpest bend.

Then I used my bandsaw to cut this profile.

Then I set my table saw to the depth of the moulding and cut a groove just on the thickness of the moulding.

This tool kept the bends on the flat without any twist. I could use the same tool to make lesser bends by matching the moulding to the required panel and making small bends progressively. The screws were countersunk and filled over with body filler.

It all went well.
Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tex Holtby on Tuesday, October 27, 2015 - 06:28 am:

Allan - just about to do the same with some aluminum molding and was not quite sure how to keep it from twisting. I'm going to "borrow" your idea! Thanks for the timely post!!!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dick Fischer - Arroyo Grande, CA on Tuesday, October 27, 2015 - 11:54 am:

Nice job, Allan.

Were the holes drilled in the moulding prior to bending or did you do that afterward ?

I would think that any holes prior to bending would promote either sharper bend at the hole or even breakage at that point.

Dick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Eagle Ida Fls on Tuesday, October 27, 2015 - 12:12 pm:

Very nice technique. I enjoyed seeing that.

Rich


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Tuesday, October 27, 2015 - 01:52 pm:

That's a neat way to bend the aluminum molding.
I bent some steel molding years ago when I restored my 1919 Roadster.
I was lucky to find some pieces that came off of the remains of an old wagon my Grandfather had.

I couldn't find any aluminum molding at the time and used what I had.

I used a torch and carefully bent the trim piece to the correct contour using a c-clamp to hold one end and a rounded piece of steel to bend the trim piece around.

Knowing what I know now from Allen's post his is a much easier and better way!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Tuesday, October 27, 2015 - 02:44 pm:

Dang!! Wish I had thought of this years ago when I was doing Model T top moldings. I would bend them, then work them flat again--this is much simpler!
Yeah, I'm one of the nick-pickers who won't use hide-em around an A top insert, nor even fold-over, which would look better. I am convinced that the tops were installed before painting, and a piece of masking paper over the top before the molding was fastened down--after painting, the paper can be torn off, and voila! perfect edge! Have found no documentation on this though, just observation of paint on un-restored cars.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Tuesday, October 27, 2015 - 08:45 pm:

Nice! Thank you for sharing a great technique.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Tuesday, October 27, 2015 - 11:30 pm:

Dick, the piece of moulding shown in the photo is a short piece left over from a previous job. I used it just for the photo and for practise drilling and countersinking the screw holes. It is essential that the holes be drilled after bending. Even small adjustments will distort the bend if the holes are already drilled.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.


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