In middle of rear axle rebuild. Replacing drive shaft and U-joint. What am I looking at?
No grease? Very warm bearing.
A stuffed ball cap babbitt bearing, looks like someone has shimmed it? pull it off and see what's going on!
The only gasket in that area fits between the flange of the ball can and the transmission/pan. There should be no gasket between the ball cap and the DS retaining ring. Its a common mistake but the effect is to distance the ball from a tight connection with the concave surface of the ball cap.
Good tip, Richard, I'll check mine for a gasket the next time I'm under my T.
I think what Donnie is trying to show us is a ball cap suffering from babbit failure at the top of the bearing, and the fact that the bolt holes in the ball cap do not line up with the two threaded holes in the pan. If I am correct about that, then this is strong evidence that the pan is bent.
As soon as the rear axle rebuild is complete, I suggest he pulls the engine and has the pan straightend on a KRW pan alignment jig.
Guess I should have asked the question " do I need to replace the ball cap with a universal ball cap?".
Trent - I hope it's just the angle of my camera. I went out and rebolted the cap back to the trans and everything lines up. But you are correct on the bushing at the top of the bearing. The piece appears to be a thin brass shim??? Or am I see a bushing coming apart?
Richard-thanks for the tip. I make sure and put gaskets only where required on reinstall.
Hope not asking dumb question but I have not read anything about replacing the cap as part of the driveshaft rebuild.
Thanks for the help.
If my poor eyes are seeing clear enough, I see babbit squished out of the bearing surface of the ball cap. Also it looks like there is wear on the inside top of the ball cap from the driveline ball. There may thus be enough play between the ball cap and the transmission output shaft to allow the bolts to easily enter the engine pan without binding. I would pull the ball cap and check the shaft for wear and if the ball cap wiggles on the shaft. I'd order a newly rebabbited ball cap and check its fit on the shaft. Then if the bottom bolts don't line up perfectly to the bottom of the pan, as Trent says, pull the engine and have the pan straightend on a pan jig. To do otherwise is just to start creating the same problem again--or worse break a crankshaft.
From your second post, seems apparent that previous owner placed a 'shim' in that 4th main, trying to stem an oil leak or loud thump when running a 4th main ball cap that has its Babbitt lining worn down.
The ball cap needs to be sized to the end of the driven plate shaft. Time to fit a re-babbitted ball cap and replace the worn one.
And with such type of quick 'repair', done easy by slipping in that shim and not opening the hogshead or doing a replacement of that bearing, one would be suspect of other work done, perhaps pull the motor and check it too, including the pan for straightness.
Also looks like a lot of wear in the square hole of the output shaft. Is the u-joint sloppy in there?
I would suggest perhaps you should check the driving plate for wear. It appears there has been a lot of slop on that u-joint. I'm willing to bet the u-joint isn't in good shape either.