OT - N Roadster for sale

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: OT - N Roadster for sale
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Russell Prideaux Margaret River West Oz on Thursday, October 29, 2015 - 11:18 am:

Rare bird for sale in Oz
http://www.justauto.com.au/justcars/cars-for-sale/1906-FORD-N-ROADSTER-JCM373552 4?backurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.justauto.com.au%2Fjustcars%2Fcars-category%2Fvintage- cars-for-sale%2F&backtext=Results


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Russell Prideaux Margaret River West Oz on Friday, October 30, 2015 - 02:26 am:

Any Experts want to comment on originality?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker in Sumter SC on Friday, October 30, 2015 - 08:44 am:

Russell,

I’m not an expert. I believe it was Bruce McCalley (R.I.P.) that commented something along the lines “None of the people who designed, built, sold and maintained the cars when new are alive today. So there are no experts remaining. Only learners. As we discover and share more information there will always be more yet to discover.”

Bottom Line Up Front. “IF” the engine serial number is 201 and “IF” the engine is original to the car and “IF” the body is original to the car – it is likely a genuine Model N Ford produced around Aug 1906.

Additional details:

The link did not work for me, but going to the home page and clicking on “veteran” vehicles it was in the second or third row down on my screen. That assumes they only have one 1906 Model N listed. The home page is: and the page the car information is displayed on was: http://www.justauto.com.au/justcars/cars-for-sale/1906-FORD-N-ROADSTER-JCM3735524?backurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.justauto.com.au%2Fjustcars%2Fcars-category%2Fvintage-cars-for-sale%2F&backtext=Results
They listed it VIN201 with AD IDJCM3735524
Is the $56,500 price AU dollars?

Also listed in the advertisement: 4 cyl, original condition, motor rebuilt, trans vgc, running gear excellent, wheels ex, new tyres, new hickory bows, orig sprockets [probably meant to say original top sockets], radiator vgc, guards vgc, upholstery excellent, easy restoration, bonnet excellent, new carburettor, 1906, new water pump gears, new fuel tank.
With a single photo it is very difficult to evaluate. But the body has the early style body irons for the early style 1906 top to mount to (it was continued into 1907 production). Those body irons come out through the back of the front seat backs. The later body irons come out at the top of the front seat and do NOT come out through the seat backs.

USA produce Model N Runabout #184 shipped Aug 16, 1906; 165, 174, 194, shipped Aug 6; #185, 188, 198 shipped Aug 8; 205 shipped Aug 10; 206 shipped Aug 19; 214 shipped Aug 11; etc. So “IF” the car is a USA produced car it most likely would have shipped around Aug 1906. [Yes they were shipped out of serial number order -- #327 shipped Aug 27 and #357 shipped Aug 15. Ref Trent’s “Early Ford Date Base” available on several CDs that come with Bruce’s “Model T Comprehensive Encyclopedia” available at: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/333725.html?1357665853 and included with “Pate’s Early Ford Automobile Encyclopedia” available from our club at: http://modeltstore.myshopify.com/products/pates-early-ford-automotive-encyclopedia-1903-1909 and highly recommended for anyone wanting to know about the earlier Ford cars. And of course joining the Early Ford Registry (a chapter of the Model T Ford Club of America and HCCA) would be an excellent source of information.

Note if the Model N was originally sold new in Australia, it normally would have come from Canadian production. And the assembly date may still have been in Aug 1906 but may have slipped into Sep 1906. Additionally they produced their own body that had some slight variations from the USA.

The radiator also may be a honey comb – which were used briefly on the early cars. It is difficult to tell from the single photo.

If the tires were mounted and the car drivable for a test drive – that would also answer many questions for a potential buyer. If anyone has additional photos – especially of the engine, exhaust manifold, rear axle where the radius rod attached (is it straight or bent) those could help with dating the car. But from the single photo and presuming the VIN is the engine number (presume can make a Pres out of U and Me) and that the body is original to the chassis and the other parts are original to the chassis, it could be a very nice early Model N Runabout.



And if anyone would like a free copy of the “How to ID the Model N, R, & S” article – drop me an e-mail with “send How to ID NRS in the title” and I will forward a copy to you.

Respectfully submitted,

Hap


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Russell Prideaux Margaret River West Oz on Friday, October 30, 2015 - 10:29 am:

Thank you Hap, very informative.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob Heyen - Eastern Nebraska on Friday, October 30, 2015 - 06:27 pm:

So close..... If it were a Canadian N, and if it was shipped the same time as #200 - #221, then August 8th, 1906:


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob Heyen - Eastern Nebraska on Friday, October 30, 2015 - 06:34 pm:

A few more thoughts. It looks like an early radiator with the "lightbulb" neck. It also looks like a honeycomb. Whitlock was listed as a honeycomb supplier for both Model N and K as of a December 1906 article I've read. Definitely an interesting Model N, and a good looking project in my opinion:


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Thomas Mullin on Saturday, October 31, 2015 - 10:24 pm:

Shouldn't the crank handle be standing up, not down? Or is that an Australian thing?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob Heyen - Eastern Nebraska on Saturday, October 31, 2015 - 10:29 pm:

Thomas,
Often the spring clip that "flips" the crank holder is broken. However, in this case, It looks like the crank holder just hasn't been moved forward. One must hold the crank upright and flip the holder forward to hold the crank upright.


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