Once again I have been working all day trying to finish up replacing the rear end in my 1917. I was at it for over seven hours and still could not figure out what the problem is. The brake rods seem to be to long. I measured the length of the drive shaft (old & new) and they are about the same. Maybe new one is a 1/2" long (installed in vehicle, old one measured out of the car, hard to get an accurate measurement in the vehicle. Also need help with adjusting Rocky Mountain brakes. I know how to adjust at rear wheels, what about in back of transmission?
Thank you in advance.
Concerning the brake rods for the emergency brakes. It would depend on the shoes you have on your car. If you have lined shoes. Push the brake lever on the backing plate all the way back to the rear as far as it will go. The rods should be adjusted so that you can install the clevis pins without bending the rods. The parking lever should be all the way forward when you make this adjustment. If they are still too long, you will need to shorten them.
When you pull back the parking brake lever the brakes should completely stop both wheels when it is all the way back. If one wheel slides before the other, shorten the one which does not slide by one half turn at a time until you get them to stop equally.
Next adjust the Rocky Mountain brakes. They should have at least 20 thousandths all the way around the drum. The wheels should spin freely at that adjustment. The rods should be adjusted to apply the brake with the parking brake lever. The equalizer should be perpendicular to the driveshaft. I like to adjust to apply the Rocky's one notch past where the parking brake locks so that it will be a secondary brake. The reason for this is so that the parking brake will stop the car when it is rolling backward.
Next adjust the foot transmission brake to lock up with the pedal 1 1/2 inch above the floorboard. The car should roll in neutral with the brake off. You don't want the transmission brake to drag when the brake is off. Next adjust the link between the pedal and the cross shaft so that when you push the foot brake it will apply the Rocky Mountain brake at about 2 inches above the floorboard. This is done so that the primary braking will be done by the Rocky Mountain brake, but if you push hard it will also apply the transmission brake. This will give you additional braking power in emergencies, and also if you push hard it will stop you when you roll backward.
So between a hard push on the brake pedal and a pull on the parking brake you can hold the car from rolling backward on a hill.
Thank you Norm for your help. I did install new brake shoes with lining when I replaced the rear end, maybe that is what makes the difference and I did have to bend the rods to get them on. Also I could not see the brake rods for the Rocky Mountain brakes move when I pushed on the brake pedal.
ps: I make a video of Sambuca running today, because it was music to my ears.
Sambuca running yesterday was music to my ears.
One day I hope to have my T sound that good...Man i'm jealous.
As it happened, both of my parking brake rods (and by "brake rods" I mean the long, clevis-rods that run under the car from the parking brake drums all the way up to a point beneath the front floorboards) were too long to actuate the emergency brakes. _I had to remove them from the car and hack-saw about a half-inch off the forward, threaded ends of the rods. _Fortunately, there was still enough thread at the end of the rod to screw on the clevis and make a proper parking brake adjustment. _Had there not been enough remaining thread, I suppose it would have been necessary to get the proper size die and make the threads longer.
As far as adjusting Rocky Mountain Brakes is concerned, there are plenty of good threads on the forum to tell you how that's done in conjunction with the transmission and parking brake. For instance:
And I also found a set of manufacturer's instructions, the relevant excerpt of which I'll repeat below. _The directions specify pulling the wheels, removing the Woodruff keys and remounting the wheels without the Woodruff keys before performing the following adjustments and then dismounting the wheels again to re-install the Woodruff keys. _I found that part to be a bit of a bother, adjusted the Rocky Mountain Brakes with the Woodruff keys in place and still got good results. _I make no recommendation either way.
Rocky Mountain Brake Adjustment
Install nut on rear support brackets and adjust top bracket so there is space between bracket and band tab towards rear car. _Bottom bracket is adjusted with space between bracket and band tab towards front of car. _The reason for this is to allow band to travel forward with the rotation of the wheels which is where the self-energizing feature is obtained.
Run down the top major adjustment nut until lining is tight against the drum. _Now adjust the nuts that are below on the threaded 6½" bolt to give the spring about 1" in length. _Back off the top adjustment nut so the wheel now will spin freely with approximately 20-thousandths clearance. _The band and lining will conform after driven a few miles and should be re-adjusted for a more precise adjustment, but allowing for drum expansion.
Thanks again for all your help. Rob, I made a short video of my coils in action (it's very dark because I wanted to get the sparks in the video).
Watching the coils in action in my 1917 Model T and making music to my ears.