I've been talking to the owner of a '24 TT. The engine has a water pump and distributor. Ruxell rear axle. Factory C cab. The engine turns over freely with the crank but hasn't run since the '70's. The truck has been in an enclosed shop, dusty but dry. He's asking $3500, is this reasonable? I have photos but I'll have edit them to make them smaller for posting. Thanks!
Here's some photos.
If it isn't rusty it seems quite reasonable - what bed does it have?
The express factory steel bed is the most desirable.
Ok, not that bed - still a cool C cab
And if you want a slow truck like a TT, then you're not likely to find one so close to driving condition any cheaper - it's worth more in parts.
Interior? Bed? Tires? Glass? Etc, etc? It's worth whatever you'll pay for it. The waterpump and distributor detract front the value. Especially if the distributor is there because the magneto doesn't work. The waterpump is a poor fix for a bad cooling system that rarely helps. The rearend is a plus if the Babbitt thrust washers aren't a problem. It's going to need a battery. Is the gas tank rusted through? Frontend wore out? Tires? Start at $1000.00 and try to keep it below $1500.00.
It looks better than expected. But still not worth much more than $2500.00.
Michael - no babbitt thrusts to worry about in a TT rear end
More important is to check so the emergency brake shoes are there, they're hard to find. And the rear wheel rims are also hard to find in good condition - but they seems to be ok - just check condition.
The magneto can be fixed later if you want - or can wait until other problems causes a need to pull the engine.
If there are no apparent cooling problems, pull the pump - the truck may work fine without it?
Hi, Tony. Welcome to the affliction. That truck looks decent for the price. Couple things to check. Try it on for size. If you're a big guy those C-cabs are a tight fit.
What ratio is the rear axle? The Ruckstell won't add anything to your top speed. Most TTs have the 7 1/4:1 ratio and will only cruise at about 20mph. If it happens to have the 5 1/6:1 ratio it's good for maybe 27mph. Not to say they won't run faster that these speeds but they'll start working the engine kinda hard.
Or if it has the more desirable high (relatively speaking) worm gear or the more common slow speed worm. I'm interested if you are not.
Tony, A couple more things to consider and which might help to negotiate a lower price, are that it has the wrong upper windshield frame. The upper windshield frame should be about 2" taller, and they have filled in that space with a piece of wood. It also has the wrong horn, but they are readily available. You might want to see if it has safety glass in the windshield too. If it doesn't have safety glass, you will want to get it.
To me the distributor and water pump don't subtract any value but the wrong windshield sure does. Someone has used a car windshield in place of the correct TT Cab stile. The upper glass and stanchions should be taller. That's why the board is across the top, to fill the space. Nice looking truck.
Tony, I think this truck has a lot of potential if you can get it for a reasonable price.
That said, you should ask if it has the usual 7.16 to 1 rear axle gears. If it does, the top speed is about 18 miles per hour. High speed gears were also offered with a 5.16 ratio which gives a slightly higher top speed. If the seller doesn't know which axle ratio it has, it's probably the slow speed as that's more common.
Many people don't expect how the driver sits in a TT. The seat is somewhat tight to the steering wheel, and the seat back is vertical with very little padding. Those of us with a "prosperous gut" may find this uncomfortable when driving for any length of time. I recommend that you at least sit in the driver's seat before you buy the truck.
Other than the windshield (which is the first thing I noticed) it looks pretty nice. These are infamous for rusting out along the bottom, so check that. Those doors, like the rear wheels, are almost made of unobtainium & they too like to rot out at the bottom. I'd check for bondo there. $3,500 seems OK in this neck of the woods, but since I'm CHEAP! I'd rather get it for $3K (NO! I am not in the market!) One nice thing, looks like with a little cleaning only, you'd be good to go (depending on the mechanicals, which, sitting since 1970, well, who knows?? Any history on the rebuild?? All talking points to barter with!
Oh, and yes, don't expect to "go fast" in this TT!
Yes, do sit in it and observe the clearance between you and the steering wheel. It appears that whoever owned/drove it before was small because there is no way he could see forward with the short (passenger car) upper windshield and the board closing the gap. I have the car windshield on mine and have to look over the top of it...and do not have a thick/tall seat.
Great C-Cab....get it...it's a bargain. Probably has the high speed rear gear as that is a common combination with a Ruckstell.
If you are really looking for one it is worth the price. If you plan on restoring it or at least making it a lot closer to original, you will have more in it than it is worth but it will be really a great truck. Along with the other comments above about the windshield, roof, engine/trans., and rear ratio, take a close look at the doors. If they are as good and solid as they appear, you have an advantage. Also, if the cowl sides, tool boxes, rear lower panel, and frame rails are good and solid, you will be ahead of the game. I used a piece of crap to build mine but I will never sell it because it is a family vehicle. I started with only a cab.
If you break down the parts of a C cab, the chassis is generic but the cab is valuable. I think that a fully restored cab by itself would bring $3500 to the right person. The doors alone are worth $600.00 if they are solid. The windshield frame can be bought new or modified to be correct. Keep in mind that this is the first full Ford truck and is a valuable piece of history.
Make sure you sit in it. I just recently was able to sit in mine with all of the controls in place and found that it it built for 10 year old kids and the seat is less comfortable than a church pew. Fortunately I'm not a large build so I will be able to use it. Good luck and I hope that you get it and put it back onto the road.
This C-cab is not original by any means. I see lots of items from 25 through 26. The windshield is wrong as is the roof design. It also has a hood that might be hard to restore. When I buy old trucks that do not run I assume that there will be something wrong with the drive train in which they do most of the time, frequently major. One big issues with the C-cabs is the subframe rot. All that I have found have it and some are not reparable. So look closely under the cab as all the supports and sheet metal,door supports attach to these and these subframes are not reproduced. I think a lot of these cabs were left sitting on the ground for a long while. I see around $1000 starting price . Assets for this TT will be in good tires,doors (with no Swiss cheese holes in the bottom) and an original Ford bed in good shape.
As I said earlier, it's worth what you'll pay for it. Therefore you have to decide its value. After reading the other posts and knowing what I paid for my T's; if I wanted a TT bad enough, I'd pay the mans price. But you can be sure I'd hit him with $2000.00 to $2500.00 to start with. In the end, it's only money. And, I know that sounds a bit foolish but, during a restoration something is going to happen that'll save you $1000.00 and something else is going to cost $2000.00 more than you expected. So the answer for me is still a question; how bad do you want it?
Oh, and trust me, a lot of guys on this forum have paid a lot more for a lot worse. This ones available; go buy it. .
Go for it! The worst thing to keep it from local driving is going to be the need for a radiator or new core. If all the gas leaked out of the tank, you are in luck and will just need to clean the tank. As some have said, there is a bunch of good parts there not to mention what looks to be a very good stake bed.
Thanks for all the comments and advice. I'm completely new to T's so any info is appreciated. I'm into antique trucks, I bought a '64 White truck from the T's owner. He also has a '25 T sedan that's in a few pieces and a '30 A that he drives. The one comment I have heard is that the TT's were slow and the Ruckstell only slows it down more. I'll check out the truck better and report back. I always wanted a T.
I see an auxiliary transmission shifter in one of the pics, if the transmission has an overdrive that might help with the slow top speed issue.
Thanks for posting an old picture of my 24 TT above. I have not seen that photo since 2007. Click on my name to see Big Liz now.
Tony, if it does not have an auxiliary transmission mounted somewhere behind the Ford transmission or in front of the differential it will be slower than a Model T car. Also do a search for the rear end gearing of a TT. there are two. Slow and slower!
Looks good to me.
Tony, as far as I know, the Ruckstell will not make the truck slower. It will add a gear between low and high and another lower than low. On the road you have the same top gear, with the advantage of an intermediate between Ford high and low, so in effect, the truck will travel faster on a trip than it might with just Ford low.
I could be wrong.
Allan from down under.
I saw this pickup last year at a civil war re-enactment close to Longview, Texas.
This '15 is the first and only T I've ever ridden in. Runs good. Owned by Pegues-Hurst Ford in Longview, Texas
I would not hesitate to pull the trigger. But I am a committed TT fool.
I would like to find a C-cab to have something a little different than the box cab I have now.
In fact, I have two boxers and could cut that to 1 and a C-cab of the moon and stars aligned.
I paid that much and got a lot less truck with my TT, looks good to me. Good luck.
I say worth it is bought a non running tt simulate shape with warford for 4500 sold it very easy as is coz it would not fit into my garage
Bought a junkyard wonder from a forum member for less then a grand and paid have it hauled home.
Luckily for me it hasn't cost me much and traded for most things but I figured in into a drivable chassis for 3k at present still have biuld a body and bed
I looked at the truck today. I saw the license registration and it says 1921. I didn't think about looking for a serial number on the registration. Where would it be stamped on the truck?
The engine turns with the crank. Doors close very well. Owner says the truck is very slow but I doubt I would try any tours, anyway. Tires look good. The truck has been stored inside since the '70's. May be the best chance I'll ever have to find a T.
Get the number stamped on the engine left side just above the water inlet, on the side of the block, just below the head, center. With that we can at least determine engine assembly date. Of course, there's always the possibility it's not the original engine, but it's a place to start.
"May be the best chance I'll ever have to find a T."
Or not. If the TT is what you prefer, go for it. But if you'd really rather have a touring, a roadster, a coupe, a sedan, etc., keep shopping. There are always a LOT of them for sale. There are currently 100 ads in Hemmings offering Model T's for sale. Many of them are wildly overpriced, but with some patience you can find a decent T at a decent price.
Very true. But, I do like trucks and this one is only 15 miles from me.
Only you can decide what it's worth and what your going to do with it
As I think you can tell most think price is fare
TT are 15 to 35 mph cruiser depending how they are setup
Trucks as a rule were lower end of the spectrum but in the last few years really caught up, and have quit a following
We are here help and or support you in either choice best of luck
Cars are for sissies. Keep on truckin' !
Cooled off here in Texas. Got mine out and about. Flushed her out.
Are most all parts readily available? If an engine or trans needs to be re-built can you get parts? What about a good repair manual, I would try to do a lot of the work myself.
Yes, yes, and many many manuals. Plus this forum.
What year model is your truck, Anthony?
Mechanical parts are pretty much readily available, what's hard to find are doors, rear wheel rims, original flatbed frames, oh and the windshield frame & stanchions, although they are not as hard to find as the other pieces I mentioned. The other difficult thing, but only requires a lot of work, is to find one without rust out along the bottom. Looks like other than the windshield, this one has the "hard-to-find" pieces. Your top problems are just wrong wood, so that's easy to fix, in fact neither of my C cab bodies have the top wood, so that's not an uncommon problem.
Do pay attention to the seats though, if you can't fit in it, it won't be any fun to drive!
I'll be talking to the owner this afternoon and check the truck over again. I don't think there's any significant rust anywhere, from what I can tell the wheels look good, tires are good just low on air. A few dents in the hood. The owner's dad drove the truck in a bicentennial parade in '76 and then it was parked.
I'm 5'10", 185 so maybe I can fit in it. I'm used to cramped cabs, my White trucks have the coupe cab that while comfortable are not the biggest.
Those are nice trucks, Tony but their not Whites...their Reds
Wow, neat-o! About 1937s?? We used to have a '36 Dodge Bros 9' bed plumbers truck (in the family since '46), my brother still regrets selling it, but he thought the family resort was going to sell--he's still running it (the resort), some 30 years later, so. . .
Tony, At your height and weight you will fit just fine. That said, the back cushion is completely vertical and not comfortable at all. It sure would be nice to have some tilt to the back cushion and more padding in the seat, but that's the way it is.
No doubt the motivation was to make the bed as long as possible = maximize the payload, and in the process the cab was made just adequate and nothing more.
Also, these trucks were often driven by a hired man, so comfort was not a big issue.
1924 C Cab Express body TT. It has a high speed rear end worm drive with a Ruxstell. It also has a Muncie auxiliary transmission with an overdrive, underdrive and another reverse.
I like the looks of your truck and even better is how it's set up. I bet it scoots along pretty well when you want it and still has all the workhorse features of the lower range too.
Had it up to 40mph today. I keep it at 35 in Muncie overdrive to keep up with the other T's. I use Muncie low and Muncie reverse for on and off the trailer.
Nice rigs Tony
TT have a few unique parts
But I been working on mine for almost a year and found everything I needed except rear wheels so I made adapters and put on model A wires up front and Aaron wires on back not stock but she be rolling next year
Anthony mine is set up the same but still rebuilding
Hoping get the motor back in by turkey day and running soon after then the fun biulding another body
Here's a few more photos I took last spring. I hope to talk to the owner this weekend and maybe make a deal.
Now we see what the gearshift lever is for, the truck has a TT Ruckstell rear axle.
Looks like a great truck, good luck with the purchase!
If you pass I'm sure I and few other would like a chance just saying until me wife finds out
Cheers and beer