Over hauling the front end on my '15 touring. found the bearing races can move within the hub. I'd rather not get new hubs at $250+ per hub. Do they make thickened races? I also know loctite makes a cylindrical locking compound (loctite 609) for just such situations, up to .006" of slop. I have about .003". Has anyone ever used this? It's supposed to be good for up to 3000psi
Years ago, I used to use a center punch and hit a few places around the hub and then use Loctite.
Yes, I've used loctite and other brands for cylindrical locking with good results. When the play was larger than recommended I've used steel shim stock to fill up the play and glued it on both sides - if the hole where the bearing should fit was nice, round and concentric, that is.
I've tried the shiming routine and it's tough to do as the material needed in my case was very thin. 0.02 was all I could get in there. Ended up with jb weld. probably should have tried a new race.
Loctite 609 is ideal for this situation. It's exactly what it's made for.
I like to do the glueing on a clean hub without grease, put everything together so the bearings straightens up and the glue hardens in the correct position - then, a couple of days later, I can take it apart and fill with grease.
Please don't use JB Weld. I've seen the result of doing that; a huge mess. JBW can't stand the pressure exerted by the bearing on the hub and will crumble.
Loctite 609 would probably be o.k.
A mechanic here said Permatex 6400 is equivalent to the Loctite product, and I can find it here
I had this same issue but not on a model T. What I did was have the outer diameter of the race industrial hard chromed. This adds about .003 - .005 to the outside diameter. If you need more than that you can dip it a second time. It cost me about $20.00 per race but I felt is was worth it as it's a permanent fix.
The potential problem with that, can be that the worn area in the hub is only where the bearing race rides. The bore will not be worn where the seal sits. So, the larger race might not pass the unworn area of the bore.
Are both bearings, (inner & outer), loose? Or, just the inners, (big ones)?
Just the inners on both wheels
For hubs with the relatively small amount of wear you've got, I've done the following. Rest the outer diameter, adjacent to the bearing area, on a hard firm surface. With a moderate sized ball peen hammer, (or better yet, a machinist's hammer, with somewhat of a chisel head), hit the outside diameter of the hub, over the area where the bearing would be riding, (try not to hit over the area where the seal rides). Don't hit too hard. Just a moderate strike. Then turn the hub just a bit and hit it again. Repeat this until you gone around the hub a few times and try the bearing again.
The idea is to close up the bore and reestablish a press fit.
Again, the idea is not to hit it hard, just to hit it many times. If you get carried away, you'll get the hole out of round and/or too small. It works faster & easier than you might imagine.
A machinists' hammer, as I mentioned above...
Loctite Stud and Bearing mount(at least that is what it used to be called) is amazing stuff. We used to use it in a past life (in the '90's) to hold an unbelievable load on a briquette making machine. It was the only thing that would hold the mold wheels, which were made from a hard chrome alloy, to the hubs. They had to withstand tremendous pressure as they were pressed against each other. That made a believer out of me. JMHO. Dave
I used it on my TT front wheels and worked great. Dave
Loctite is great and the bearing will be very tight but you have to think how you will be able to get it out in the future. It has to be heated up to 480 °F if you cannot use a press.
Philippe, an oxy-acetylene torch will do that in a heart beat. Most car guys have one, or at least access to one. If it needs to come out, most likely the race is toast any way. JMHO. Daved