'26 fan eccrentric

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: '26 fan eccrentric
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Will Brown on Monday, November 02, 2015 - 08:26 pm:

My '26 (built November '25) has the original fan eccentric. I understand that these were deemed unsatisfactory by Ford and were replaced by a different style. How rare are the original fan pulley mounts that came with the early 26s? They were discontinued in February of '26. Mine is still functioning.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Monday, November 02, 2015 - 08:32 pm:

Don't know but I bet the design was changed to reduce the cost not because it was a bad design.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron Patterson-Nicholasville, Kentucky on Monday, November 02, 2015 - 08:44 pm:

The early design was changed to the screw drive eccentric because if you tightened the bolt too much the split casting ear would break off.
Ron the Coilman


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Monday, November 02, 2015 - 08:49 pm:

Thank you, good point Ron.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown North Central Arkansas on Monday, November 02, 2015 - 08:50 pm:

Im with Mark. Probably just cheaper to make the second design. As to being rare. They are a little harder to find, but I have not noticed any big price difference. Less people need them so less people to want them. They also reproduce the later style, so that seems to be the style of choice. What style body do you have. I have been doing studies of the Improved Model features. Would you mind answering a few questions about your car. So I can add the features of your car to my list. If you are willing to, send me a e-mail to dobro(at)artelco.com and Ill send a list of the features Im looking into. Thanks and Submitted with respect Donnie Brown ..


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron Patterson-Nicholasville, Kentucky on Monday, November 02, 2015 - 09:06 pm:

My post above was unclear and poorly worded.
The early radial clamp screw eccentric design was changed to the axial clamp eccentric design because if you over tightened the bolt on the early deign the split casting ear would break off.
The later clamp design was probably easier to make too. But, I believe the change was driven failures of the early design.
Ron the Coilman.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron Patterson-Nicholasville, Kentucky on Monday, November 02, 2015 - 09:07 pm:

Here is a photo of the later axial clamp design.
1
Ron


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Woods, Richmond, Texas on Tuesday, November 03, 2015 - 01:08 am:

I'm with Ron P. on this one. I've had (and still may have) two of them. One is nice and functional and the other is functional but one of the ears had been broken before I got it and someone did a P--- poor job of brazing it together.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Travis E. Towle on Tuesday, November 03, 2015 - 03:40 pm:

Is there anyway to rebuild the bearings in these? Mine "the later one" seems to wobble.


Travis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Woods, Richmond, Texas on Tuesday, November 03, 2015 - 04:13 pm:

Travis, the bearings in the aluminum pulley can be replaced if you can find suitable bearings. Not sure if the vendors carry them or not. Another option is to buy a new reproduction pulley with bearings already installed. I know these are available. The pulleys were interchangeable and will work with the early 26 or the late 26-27 neck. Also two types of fan pulleys were made. Some with an extended snout for use with a two row core radiator that some 26 models were factory equipped with and the more common pulley with no snout that was used with the thicker three row core radiator which is more common.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron Patterson-Nicholasville, Kentucky on Tuesday, November 03, 2015 - 05:55 pm:

Here is a photo of the two different length fan hubs for the 1926/27 cars.
1
Ron the Coilman


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Will Brown on Tuesday, November 03, 2015 - 06:17 pm:

Interesting. Thanks for posting.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Wednesday, November 04, 2015 - 05:57 am:

Travis, check the catalogs from the vendors :-)
https://www.modeltford.com/item/3974B.aspx


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Adam Doleshal on Thursday, November 05, 2015 - 11:49 am:

I had a customer one time that I sold a new radiator to for his '26. He called me a couple days later insisting I sold him the wrong radiator because his fan was tight against the radiator core. I went over and took a look at it and that car did have the longer fan hub for the Ford 2 row core and the radiator that came off the car was one of the thin 2 row Ford radiators. I told him he required the shorter fan pulley to work with the new radiator and he STILL insisted the radiator was wrong for the car (I think he really didn't believe what I was telling him)... I volunteered to give him a short pulley that was "proper" for the new radiator and after several minutes of deliberation I think he finally realized the radiator wasn't available any other way and decided to take the free replacement pulley and keep the new radiator!

This is one of the top two potential issues with installing a new, properly built radiator. This issue has come up for me a few times and there is also an issue where the cylinder head outlet does not match the radiator top tank inlet and that is usually due to an incorrect front crossmember being installed (TT truck with car crossmember) or vice versa...

Also, I did hear a story once about how the 2 row Ford radiators were a cost cutting idea and they didn't cool worth a darn, even when they were new and Ford knew it... Most of them got assembled into cars destined for delivery in "Northern areas" where the climate would mean less cooling issues...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Woods, Richmond, Texas on Thursday, November 05, 2015 - 01:12 pm:

I'll agree with Adam. The two row core radiators were probably a cost cutting ides. I also, agree that they were probably more commonly installed in car destined for cooler climates. The only one that I have personally had was a barn find car that came from the San Francisco area.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bill Harris, Huntington Beach California on Thursday, November 05, 2015 - 03:28 pm:

Our '27 Coupe is an original Southern California car and has the thin two-row radiator core.

27


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown North Central Arkansas on Thursday, November 05, 2015 - 04:43 pm:

I have three of the thin radiators. One is in my early 26 touring that may have originally been a non starter car. Henry also made a "loss leader" stripped down version to sell at a cheap price. He actually lost money on the car but it allowed him to advertise a very low price for the T. It was the dealers responsibility to "lead" you to the more expensive and profitable cars. I have always thought that the thin radiators are linked to the "non starters" or the "loss leaders" That is just my personal opinion and no hard facts to prove anything.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Eric Sole - Castelldefels (Spain) on Friday, November 20, 2015 - 03:35 pm:

I don't know where my 27 Roadster was produced but my buddy bought it in Kansas City in 1964. It has always run with the thin radiator and long fan hub. It will spit a little water out around the radiator cap when pushed to near full speed but other than that it has worked ok. It's been seeping from various places for many years so I have decided to replace it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Friday, November 20, 2015 - 04:15 pm:

The bearings are inside the fan hub. Bronze bushings which are pressed in and reamed to fit the shaft. These need to be oiled through the plug in the side of the pulley and tend to spray oil around under the hood. You will also see advertised ball bearing hubs. These are not original equipment but are indistinguishable from the original when they are installed. They have sealed bearings which do not need to be lubricated.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David L Corman on Friday, November 20, 2015 - 04:38 pm:

Adding a seal is each end of pulley hub will prevent oil slinging and oil will remain hub where it belongs.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Woods, Richmond, Texas on Friday, November 20, 2015 - 05:18 pm:

As I stated above, due to seeing and having a water outlet with a broken and repaired ear, I agree with Ron and Adam that the later design resulted from failures recorded with the earlier design; not just because of cost cutting. I doubt much, if any, money savings was involved. If you doubt me; I'll sell my broken one to anybody so you can see for yourself the poor design. Then you can put a wrench on the bolt and tighten it down with a fan in place and watch the casting break again. You'll end up with junk.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Friday, November 20, 2015 - 07:21 pm:

I've never had a problem with the bushings in my fan hub, and they didn't need to be reamed either, but I used genuine Ford bushings too, so maybe that is the answer? As far as spraying oil all over the engine, I don't have that problem. Maybe it's because I use the correct felt and cap.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Wilson, Saint John NB, Canada on Friday, November 20, 2015 - 07:29 pm:

My Canadian 27 had the thin rad originally. It finally got beyond repair and I replaced it with a new Brassworks rad. Had to change to the short pulley and cools beautifully. I did away with the water pump at the same time. I suspect many Canadian T came with the cheaper thin rad as they probably worked ok for our cool climate


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Saturday, November 21, 2015 - 12:00 am:

I just got an early bracket with eccentric and pulley, broke in both those places. (Terry W)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Rosenkrans on Sunday, November 22, 2015 - 04:58 pm:

My '26 has the later axial fan eccentric. I looked in the black book for how to adjust the fan tension, but the instructions are for the earlier radial clamp version. What is the best method for tightening the belt with the later eccentric?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Sunday, November 22, 2015 - 08:21 pm:

Wayne, there is a boss cast into the back of the assembly. See the first Photo. Simply loosen the fan shaft nut, fit a wrench to the boss and move it as required, and re-tension the fan shaft nut.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Sunday, November 22, 2015 - 08:23 pm:

Sorry Wayne, I should have led you to Ron's first photo, of the improved version.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick on Monday, November 23, 2015 - 01:35 am:

Here's a drawing I did in 2010 of the fan on my 1926 coupe. At the time, I had the fan assembly completely disassembled in order to replace the bearings and shaft and thought it might help others to see the various fan components. I am pleased that it has been posted and referred to many times on the forum. Jim Patrick


Posting is currently disabled in this topic. Contact your discussion moderator for more information.
Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration