Purchased this speedster for the rolling chassis and have title and bill of sale ID'ng it as a 26. But through this forum, I've learned that the frame is much earllier and now I am suspecting that the motor and transmission is earlier as well.
The casting number comes up as a Noveber 25, but I didn't know if they cast blocks earlier than the model year in prperation for a change.
The plywood floorboards were purchased and wer represented as 26/27 and you can tell they do not fit the pedal.
The cover plate for the bans measures 6 3/4" by 0 1/4" so I don't know if that is 25 or 26/27. The block has the pass through for the carb rod, but it did not hav avaporier. The carb is a Kingston L4 with the swivel on top.
The fan pully came off like a "normal" fan pully, no key or bushings. No belt tension adjustment that I can tell and fan bolted to upper water inlet.
I can take measurement or get additional photos, but before I start ordering parts and gaskets for it I'd like to know what I got.
I'll hang up and listen. Thank you in advance.
According to the table in the book "Model T Ford, the Car That Changed the World", engine 12643245 was one of 8511 engines assembled on November 4, 1925, making it an early 1926 model year engine.
According to the MTFCA site encyclopedia, the 1926 model year ran from August 1925 to August 1926.
The four dip pan and upper pair of bolts and bosses connecting the engine and transmission are consistent with that build date.
Looks like it's all '26-27 except the clutch pedal. That is earlier and should be wide like the brake pedal.
Will the correct and wider clutch pedal, then fit the slot in the floorboard as shown? Or is just the foot plate wider?
Looks like a good collection of stuff from many years...early clutch pedal, early front spring clip, '26-'7 block, hogshead; early frame, '26-'7 steering column, 6 speed iron Warford with front U-joint (good), mixed manifold clamps...etc.
Unless you are attempting to replicate a specific speedster there is nothing wrong with a mix of various year parts. A mix of parts is pretty typical for the speedsters I've seen.
Replacing the clutch pedal with a normal 26/27 wide style would solve the spacing problem with the floorboard. Then again it's no big deal to make a floorboard that would fit you pedals. I like the wide pedals for myself but the more compact narrow pedal may fit easier depending on what body you plan to use.
Robert, You are at the stage of needing to decide what you want to build. Some questions you need to ask yourself are
1 high radiator or low radiator.
2 what body style of speedster
3 how much "speed" do you want.? (speed costs money" the "more faster" you want to go the "more money needed"
4 Do you want to be period correct with everything or have some modern upgrades.
There are other things to think about, but now is the time to nail down the major points of the car you want. The easiest speedster to build is a traditional "flat deck" speedster That will consist of a firewall and a set of sloping floorboards. Then there usually is a pair of bucket seats sitting on the "flat deck mounted on a seat riser. Behind them is a round or oval gas tank and then usually a tool box behind the gas tank. I have seen them with fenders or no fenders. Then there are hundreds of other options as to bodies to chose from. With a basic design of what you would like to have, it will save a lot of mistakes as to parts bought, or starting over after you have things built that do not work with your parts, ect. From what I see in the pics, you have a nice looking 26/27 Improved style engine. It is a good choice for a speedster because of the two bolts bolting the hogs head to the engine block. I see a Warford. That is a good thing. but it will require you to find or make some kind of auxillary outside rear brakes for safety reasons. But the Warford will give you more speed and better engine rpm control. I see a 25 and earlier frame. That is OK for a speedster, because the frame type, really is no big issue as long as its straight, and not broken or rusted out, ect. The wire wheels is also a nice addition for a speedster. They appear to be Model A wheels, with T hubs welded in them. That is OK as long as they run true and the welds are good. That was a common practice back in the day. As to your original question as to gaskets. Just order the engine gaskets for a 26-27 engine and you will have the right stuff. But the main thing is just have fun ... and be safe... Submitted with respect Donnie Brown ...
Robert, From what I'm reading it sounds like maybe you bought a speedster and you possibly want to put it back to a somewhat stock configuration. The engine appears to be the improved version and so does the steering column not sure about the frame but it looks like maybe a longer rear cross brace peeking out in one of your photo's. So my question would be just what do you want to build? And like Donnie says just order the 26-27 gaskets and go with it. Jim
"By Robert Brough on Friday, November 06, 2015 - 05:12 pm:
Will the correct and wider clutch pedal, then fit the slot in the floorboard as shown? Or is just the foot plate wider?"
Pedal spacing is determined by the hogs head. The 26/27 clutch pedal should fit with no problem. Do be aware that the pins, notch and new clutch shafts may not be quite correct. When Dan Hatch worked on my transmission he had to drill the notch and use a larger pin because the hole in the new shaft was over size compared to the notch and pin.
In addition to other pre-26 features, your 1926 block has a 1919-1925 front plate on it. That's another thing you'll have to decide. 26-27 fan mounted on the water outlet, or pre-26 fan mounted with an arm bolted to the front plate.
Steve, the early front plate is correct on a early 26 style engine, the new front plate wasn't used until february 1, 1926 according to the encyclopedia. http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/doc26.htm
The lack of straps between the rear engine mounts and the hogshead bolts is also correct for november 4, but I would have added them - they help stabilize the engine and reduces strain on the pan arms.
So to recap . . .
I purchased this 26/27 in a trade for a Doodlegub because the engine was runnig the power train was complete. My intention is to create a WWI light patrol car which would have the exteror features of a 1918 or 1917 Model T with n ope light express wooden body on it.
It was always going to be a Model T saad.
ut this morning I am leanig towards pursuing a possible trade for a running chassis WWI Model T and trading my 26/27 Speedster. The wire wheels, th Warford tranmission, the loweed spingles, cut off running board braces etc., makes it sound like this Speedster whould remain as such ad would have greater appeal, if not value, in the marketplace "as is".
If I can find a running WWI Model T, I can at least have the skeletonof a era correct vehicle and buld up from there as I create this patrol car.
To the classifieds section!
Those parts, although from different years will all work together and unless you are trying to make a car of specific date, will work just fine. Especially if you are making a speedster.
The gasket sets from the vendors include all gaskets to fit every year and you just use the gaskets you need for your specific parts and either throw the others away, or donate them to someone who can use them.
2X what Norman said. Get the set with the copper head gasket. The set will cover all your engine needs.