When moving the firewall back 2", that pulls the steering column back 2", which makes the steering bracket back 2". Does the steering work OK mounted back 2" or should I extend the shaft 2" or cut 2" off the column to make up for this? How do the Torpedo's deal with this?
Here's a thread that deals with the differences on the Torpedos: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/395252.html
On a speedster there are many possibilities, but I think it's best to keep the steering bracket as close to it's original place as possible, though maybe somewhat angled since the column often is lowered on a speedster. Don't know if a longer steering shaft is available from any vendor nowadays?
The column placement is moved back with the firewall relocation. The passing of the column thru the firewall is in a lower position than a touring or roadster as well. So while moving back 2", the lowering lessens that figure to 1"+. Once you have mounted the column in the firewall using the wedge to compensate for the angle change, slide the lower bracket on to the shaft and rods to the point you are 1/2" past the taper for the pitman arm and hold it next to the frame. You will see that you have to drill new mounting holes and you will need to make a small hardwood wedge to go between the bottom of the frame and the lower flange of the bracket to make up for the gap caused by lowering the column. The steering will work just fine. Any questions, give me a call.
As Roger K said, there are many possibilities with speedsters.
One thing you can do is to move the lower frame bracket up inside the frame rails (bolted onto the top of the bottom rail). Raising that end up lowers the steering wheel almost two inches, without interfering with the transmission pedals.
You do not want to raise the bracket any more than to just above the lowest part of the rail, because the pitman arm will hit the rail on a right turn limiting its effectiveness. I have run a couple speedsters with the bracket moved up inside with no troubles from it.
Moving the frame bracket back two inches from the front axle works just fine. But the question that follows is, are you moving the axle forward to under-slung the front suspension? That also puts about three inches separation between the axle and frame bracket. Two or three inches separation is no problem. Four or five inches is pushing it a bit, but probably would work just fine. I would not go beyond that.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Thanks Tom. I figured it would gain a little when lowered, but my guess would be less than 1/2 inch. I guess if anybody would know if it works it would be you!
I cut two inches of the steering column tube and remounted the quadrant and gear box with the two rivets. This returned everything back to its original position and worked out great.
Forgot to mention the addition of the wedge on the column bracket and lower bracket.
Done it both ways with good results my last speedster I mounted the lower bracket this way front hole in bracket rear hole in frame and rear drill for rear hole and side bolt
OK,so what if I combine a couple of the ideas above. Tom says lowering the column would gain about 1" back. Then I could cut 1' off the top of the column to pick up the other inch and I should be back to the original position. Mark, did you lower your column?
Thanks for the answer to this Tom. As a future Rootlieb speedster kit buyer, its a point that I have often wondered about.
However, my speedster project now has the front axle situated in front of the spring and that will necessitate some other course I'll need to take.
I can say yes but 8 usually do some mark up and this allows me to decide were the column will be seats and comfortable driving position
Couple of time I had to bend my pedals to clear it
I never done the speedster kit but used many parts from the kit by them selves