Radiator Saga - hose installation

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Radiator Saga - hose installation
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Rosenkrans on Thursday, November 19, 2015 - 11:08 am:

Decided to start a new thread as my'26 Model T radiator saga continues.

Radiator is mounted with its shell and petcock, nuts cotter keyed, and brace in position. Hoses are positioned to slide into place, but not where they need to be. Upper hose needs to come up a half inch or so, lower hose down an inch or so. I can't budge either one.

Any thoughts on how to get the hoses to move into place?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Thursday, November 19, 2015 - 11:14 am:

You must mount the hoses and the engine inlet / outlet to the radiator before installing the radiator. Measure the length needed, remove the radiator, assemble everything loose, then install the radiator and try installing the bolts in the inlet / outlet.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Thursday, November 19, 2015 - 12:07 pm:

Royce is correct.

Best to use the Ford Service Manual for procedures, short cuts for me always have the result of re-doing my work....and I work soooo slooow :-)



Improved car radiator and hoses install covered in Service Manual, Paragraph 1148.

Hint: like to mount the cast iron inlet and outlets first, slide the hoses and clamps in correct position, clamp screws facing out, and then add a touch of silicone grease to inside each end bore of those rubber hoses. That lube will dry later, but sure makes it easy to slip up or down the hoses on the upper radiator port and the metal lower tube as you position. Before clamping, set the radiator correct, and reset the hood on to be sure the radiator shell fits the hood fine. Your adjustment for hood fit is the radiator position, more or less vertical. So the hoses have to slip with the radiator as you adjust the radiator position into final set.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Rosenkrans on Thursday, November 19, 2015 - 12:32 pm:

You think I'd learn by now, never assume you know how to do anything. Off to undo all my work from yesterday and do what Royce and Dan suggest. You can check my work in March Dan...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Miller, Sequim WA on Thursday, November 19, 2015 - 01:29 pm:

Check to make sure you have the later engine hose outlets as they are longer than the older ones. The 26 had the fan attached to the outlet as one piece. I'm no sure about the engine inlet if they were different too.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Rosenkrans on Thursday, November 19, 2015 - 02:08 pm:

Well, I'm using the hose outlets that are on the car, so they should be correct and seem in good shape - been on there a long time if not. Did decide to order a new outlet pipe, the one I took off there was pretty badly corroded on both ends, almost eaten through the ridge on one end and very pitted overall. Probably would be tough to get a good seal, which I suspect was the case at some time in the past with an extra hose clamp on the outlet side of the pipe. No job is ever simple with an old car...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Thursday, November 19, 2015 - 02:47 pm:

Wayne you can lightly grease the inside of the hoses to help them get in the right position if they are the correct length to begin with.

Been doing that years working on tractors and of course Model T's. It makes them move a little easier especially if they are in a tight place.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Thursday, November 19, 2015 - 04:45 pm:

Not trying to be obstinate John,but I was always under the impression that rubber and grease and/or oil do not get along very well together,....???


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Rosenkrans on Thursday, November 19, 2015 - 04:55 pm:

I think that's why Dan recommended the silicone grease, also called dielectric grease. Different formulation, doesn't effect rubber in the same way.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bruce Spainhower - Portland, Oregon on Thursday, November 19, 2015 - 05:18 pm:

This is what I use. It's a must-have in the shop for when petroleum grease won't work. Great on O-rings, Model T hoses,etc. I'm on my second tube... since oh, 1974. A little goes a long way.

Vacuum Grease


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Thursday, November 19, 2015 - 05:23 pm:

Well! There it is! Says right on the tube,..."for rubber connections" (among all of the other things.) Amazing how much can be learned just from general discussion on this great forum. Now,....if I could just remember even half of what I learn,.......harold


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron in Central Massachusetts on Thursday, November 19, 2015 - 06:07 pm:

Wayne - I sleeve all my hose connections with bicycle inner tube. I stretch about a 2" long piece of bicycle inner tube over each metal connecting point and this gives a "soft" surface for the hose to bond with (thereby minimizing leaks/seepage).


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Thursday, November 19, 2015 - 07:05 pm:

Harold When I mentioned using grease I didn't say to put on a big glob.
I have used whatever grease was available in the shop area and its usually some grease out of my grease gun.
The top hose on my 54 NAA Ford tractor was replaced in the late 80's and if I remember I used a lite dab of grease when I installed it.

Let me think now, that's close to 25 years and I've pulled the radiator at least once since then and stuck it back on.

Maybe I'll to replace it in about 10 years or so.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By keith g barrier Savannah Tn. on Thursday, November 19, 2015 - 07:36 pm:

The only real use I have for WD-40 is to use on hoses and rubber fittings, it evaporates away after sliding parts together. KGB


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Friday, November 20, 2015 - 07:25 pm:

Note the position of the hose clamps. If they are turned around, they can contact the fan blades.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Val Soupios on Friday, November 20, 2015 - 07:47 pm:

I just use a small amount of lubriplate. Ten years later the hose just slipped off with the slightest tug.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Rosenkrans on Wednesday, November 25, 2015 - 10:25 am:

So, the new outlet tube came from Lang's, the shorter one for the water pump (original one was the longer one which left virtually no room for movement), silicone grease on all the hose ends, hoses clamped on the radiator side, wedges under the mounting bolts to raise them up, ready to go. A bit of futzing and she slid on real nice, all hoses lined up, got the nuts started, and tightened everything down. Fitted the hood and adjusted the rod, then positioned and tightened the remaining hose clamps. Filled with coolant and checked for leaks this morning - we're good to go!!

Perseverance and good advice triumphs over the perversity of inanimate objects yet again. Thankyou all.


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