I need to remove my gas tank to do some welding on the steering column mount on the firewall of my 1926 coupe.
The sediment bulb is stuck pretty good, I've been adding Gibbs penetrating oil every so often but I can't get a good grip on the bulb without marring it.
Any tricks for removing it?
Mike, if the tank is clean and dry, you could try applying heat to the sediment bowl (only) after all internal parts are removed. You wouldn't want to melt the brass valve or anything else inside the bowl. Do not apply direct heat to the threaded fitting on the tank as it is soldered and riveted to the tank and you don't want to disturb it. TO grip the sediment bowl, wrap an old hand towel or wash cloth around the bowl several times. If you have a large, and I do mean large, pipe wrench with about an 18" to 24" handle and it opens the jaws wide enough to grip the bowl at it biggest part, gently apply pressure. Without heat, there is always the possibility of popping the soldered connection loose from the tank, so be careful. Lacking the suitable size pipe wrench, the alternative would be to grip the sediment bowl (wrapped for protection) in a large bench vise, and turn the tank carefully. Good luck. Most of them aren't that hard to dislodge.
Terry, thanks for the response. It sounds like it's possible to remove the tank from the cowl with the sediment bulb still on- is that correct?
I would NOT recommend applying heat to the area unless it was not a flame type heat. Use the pipe wrench with rag wrapped. That thread is a pipe thread and is tapered, so once you get it started moving, it should come right out. I had an experience with trying to weld a gas tank. The tank had not been used for years, and I had filled it with water and washed it out. When I applied a torch to it, it exploded! It was enough to cause the tank to jump a few inches in the air! If there had been more fuel or vapors in the tank, I might not be here typing today.
You CANNOT remove the tank with the sediment bowl attached as the tank comes out from inside. A torch is a No-No in this area, use the 50/50 atf,acetone penetrant and keep trying.
Good Heavens; Please, DO NOT apply a torch to a fuel tank or anything attached to it!!!
I wasn't planning on it! I'll try the pipe wrench and ATF/acetone and see where it gets me. Thanks all!
Hey guys, I agree that using a flame near any fuel tank is risky. It might produce the desired results and it might not, so I withdraw that suggestion. I would try (with the tank in the car) the rag around the sediment bowl and a large pipe wrench. ATF/acetone is probably as good as Kroil, which is one of the better penetrants on the market.
before the pipe wrench and the ATF/acetone just hammer with a small hammer around the thread part of the tank connection. It will loose the rust.
take like a vibrating engraving pencil and let it vibrate for 4-5 minutes moving it around the bowl should come loose
Is it true that in a 26 the dash has to be removed? My 27 came out fine, my 26 Speedster the dash is fixed and the tank just wont squeeze out. I recall reading another thread where 26 needs the dash moved.
I have removed my dash anyway because I am working on body and paint. It will definitely make it easier
My sediment bulb was corroded in so well that no amount of penetrant, time or wrenching would remove it. I knew if I applied one more ft lb of torque I would destroy the tank fitting.
The only remaining option was to cut the bulb off close to the tank and slit the remainder with a hacksaw blade (being very careful not to cut into the threads on the tank fitting). Vice grips on the remainder of the bulb unscrewed it easily then.
Its an option of last resort, but it can save the tank.
Penetrating oil and a big pipe wrench worked great.
Glad it worked for you, Michael. Its always worked for me.