I'm asking on behalf of my friend Jay Mauer who is following this thread on his smart phone. Jay is restoring a (probably American) '26 Touring. The illustrations below are from Lang's 2015 catalog.
Rad mounting hardware: No leather or rubber pad is shown for '26 -27... this surprises me as I have one on my own, but I gather no pad is correct?
Hood shelf blocks: Jay ordered some from a vendor and they look exactly like those in the Lang's catalog. However, they seem too thick by about 3/16" — as supplied, they force the rad apron so high that there is vertical misalignment of the apron-crank-hole with the front motor mount. My '26 Canadian touring has the original wood blocks which are (now at least) much thinner, such that the hood shelf flanges just touch the fender sheet metal, and my apron and motor mount holes are aligned.
Should the repro hood shelf blocks be trimmed thinner or is there a better approach?
I've trimmed my repro hood shelf block thinner to make it fit. It's a very common experience with repro parts..
Is the diagram wrong?? My original lower radiator apron*3977EBQ - has a large hole in it that fits the lower thimble prefectly. If you just use the stump to hold it then it would not fit would it? Please advise before I put my front end together this week.
I cut my own out of maple to the same specs as the old one and I have a Canadian Tudor.
Travis - no, I don't think the diagram is wrong. See this thread with more about the radiator apron mounting: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/506218/507203.html?1442012707
I ran into that a couple of years ago. I had Lang's diagram and another supplied by a T-owning friend. One of the diagrams was wrong, but I can't remember which was correct. I'd go out and look at my T, but it is 1,500 miles away from me at the moment.
If you have a sander, just sand a little at a time from the block until you get everything to fit. A good gauge of the fit is when the screw below the crank handle will fit straight into the spring mount.