I have a 1924 touring and my shifter lever pops back a couple of stops and the clutch starts to slip.
before I get my file out and file vampire teeth on the ratchet and sharpen the pawl, is there an established fix for this?
Great information, Thank you Mark.
there will be blood on the shop floor again.
Best thing to do is replace the used parts. It would be a lot easier, and faster!
How is taking the rivets out and putting the new quadrant and rivets easier in an assembled car? You have to work under around everything between the frame/transmission and under the running board aprons to remove then replace and rivet the new one in unless you use bolts. I would get the file out and try cleaning up the teeth on the quadrant first and replace the pawl before going through all the work to replace the quadrant.
If you are drawing blood, slow down.
I am unclear on the question/problem? Is the brake handle all the way forward? And it pops back causing the clutch to slip while driving? Or is the handle pulled back? And jumps forward causing the clutch to make the car move.
If the parking/emergency brake is not properly adjusted, the brake rods (if too long) can push the brake handle with enough force to engage the clutch cam and allow some slippage in the clutch.
Cutting the teeth deeper in the ratchet quadrant is difficult enough when it is off the car and clamped in a vise. The arc and cut both need to be fairly precise to work well and last long. A standard three-corner file is not sharp enough. I usually start with one, then finish with a special saw-tooth file.
I have done it laying on my back under a car. A Dremmel tool (or similar die grinder) can help a lot.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
I`ve replaced afew, wasn't that hard. Crawl under, grind off the head of rivets and bolt back together. It`s easier if you have a torch
While your under there unbolt the brake arm, and clean the rust off both ends where it hinges, and oil, or grease it. Now you can sharping the upper pawl,or replace it. I would add a new external spring while your at it. Do it right and forget it
If you unbolt the brake arm make sure to clean out the oil hole in the lower frame rail and the matching hole in the bracket. Few people even realize there is a hole in the frame to oil the rod.
I built up the pawl with weld and ground it to fit the quadrant. Worked for me. That being said, no matter what method you use to repair the pawl and quadrant, make sure that when you pull back the e-brake , squeeze the handle so that the pawl doesn't drag on the quadrant. That will wear things out way too soon. Dave
If indeed the stick jumps back, towards you, and causes the clutch to slip, no amount of filing will help you. The ratchet teeth are there to keep the stick from going forward, not to keep it from coming back towards you. If this is really the case, you have some other issues.
It could be that your parking brake rods are not adjusted correctly, causing your brake cams to go past the neutral, or relaxed, position. This will cause the parking brake arms to want to rotate backwards and push the brake rods forward, causing the stick to want to come back. It's also possible the excessive fore & aft play in your torque tube ball joint allows the rear end, (brake rods included), to move forward as you accelerate from stop. This will have the same effect of pushing your stick back towards you. The test is to drive the car with the parking brake rods disconnected and see if it helps.