My '26 is missing the choke linkage between the rod coming down thru the firewall and the bell-crank on the carb. Could someone please post a picture of what should be there as I have no idea. Thanks
Jerry, I don't have a picture (I'm sure someone will) but there is a sleeve that moves up and down on your carb adjusting rod that has a tab with a hole in it. The sleeve is a loose enough fit on the rod so as not to bind or turn on the carb adjusting rod when it is turned to adjust your fuel mixture, A wire about the size of a metal coat hanger connects the tab to the choke lever on your carb.
A bike spoke is ideal for the wire from the tab to the carb.
It's a bit hard to see, but there is a collar about 3/4 inch long on the rod. This rests against a cotter pin through the rod. There is a tab protruding from the collar and a stiff wire goes through the bell crank. It has an offset which holds it into the lower hole of the bell crank and a hook at the top which fits through the hole in the tab on the bell crank. Adjust the length of the wire so that when the rod is all the way down the choke is open and when you pull the rod the cotter pin will pull the sleeve to close the choke. There is another wire from the upper bell crank through the radiator to the front so you can choke while cranking.
From your profile this appears to be your first posting, so welcome to the forum!
Just a quick comment – the 1926 model year cars could have come from the factory with one of three different carburetors [ref: http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/C-D.htm#Carb1scroll down to 1925-26 ]. And they used two basic set ups. The photos posted by folks above assume you are running the NH or Kingston L4 style carb. Both of those used the “U-joint” needle valve that connected to the choke pull rod that went inside the car.
The other style carburetor was the Holley Vaporizer and it used a similar choke pull rod but the routing of the rod to the choke butterfly is different (and some other parts such as the needle valve are different. That carburetor is a little more forward than the NH and Kingston L4.
Above is the Holley NH on a 1926 and below is the vaporizer on a 1926-27.
Both photos are from the Nov-Dec 1980 "Vintage Ford" page 34 used by permission to promote our hobby and club.
Additionally the early Model T style carb without the U-joint could be fitted but the 1926-27 style choke rod would not work with it without some modifications of some kind. And there were also a lot of accessory carburetors and manifolds some which made the car run faster and all claimed to improve the car's performance. So if your car’s set up does not look like either of those – you may have an earlier Ford style carb, an aftermarket set up or even a Model A Ford carb & manifold set up.
If you are new to Model Ts as well as new to the forum please let folks know. And of course be sure to check out the local Model T club there in Arkansas see: http://www.mtfca.com/clubpages/chapters.htm#ar
Again, welcome to the forum!
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