There was another thread earlier about car hauler trailers, but I could not find it. I am close to ordering my trailer and Im still on the fence about e-track. My trailer will have the normal 4 heavy duty welded to the frame D-rings that come standard in most trailers, but I am thinking about adding e-track. Im getting a 20 foot trailer, and want to add 18 foot of e-track to the floor. It will be welded to the frame steel cross structure that is on 16 inch centers. Then the 3/4 inch treated ply wood floor is added so the e-track sits flush with the floor. I have never had any real experience with e-track. So any pros or cons of the product. ?? Two 18 foot runs of e-track added at the time of order is 240.00. Would it be best spaced at the tire width or inside the tire width. ?? One other detail. The trailer Im looking to get is a tube frame, semi-trailer style that has a perimeter tube and then cross tubes. No I-beam frame as older style trailers used. It looks like a good design to me, and has been around for awhile, but I have never owned one with that style frame. pro's-con's ... Thanks ....
Spend the money on the track!!! You will like the versatility .. They make fasteners to hold just about anything...
You'll want your etrack spaced at track width if you plan to use basket tie downs.
Joseph, The money is really not the issue. For what it should be able to do I think it is a cheap investment. Im mostly looking for problems someone has had, and are they strong enough to tie the Model T down with safely, ect. Thanks for the input..
Dennis, The basket tie downs I have seen advertised seem to be for standard size tires (14 15 inch tires). Will those fit on a T tire (30X3-1/2 inch and 21 inch) or will I have problems finding some that will fit .
I use e track and love it. I have 2 strips down the floor and 2 down each wall. If you ever move furniture and appliances the wall track comes in handy.
Donnie, these will work:
(Message edited by tt bud on December 02, 2015)
Call me when you have a chance.
I have e-track installed as you have described and love it. My trailer has a 5 ft. V-nose and I had the trailer manufacture install two runs of e-track running in the floor from the rear ramp to the inside front wall. Besides the car, it is handy to be able to secure anything you want the entire inside length of the trailer.
Having the e-track welded to the frame cross members and recessed in the floor is a neat way to go. Was not that expensive to add the e-track as part of the build. Also added bogie rollers underneath at the rear which is handy when going out drive way's.
I had the extra height added and do not need to put the top down when driving the car in. This is my third enclosed trailer so I had an idea of what I wanted.
The first used enclosed trailer I bought had D-rings in the plywood floor.....however, they were only secured to the plywood floor and not the frame. I noticed the floor being loose and that was when I discovered how the factory had installed the D-rings. Not all trailers are built the same.....some manufacturers cut corners. My current trailer was built by Royal Cargo in 2006 and I am very happy with it. Also have the torque flex axles which I like much better compared to springs. The roof is aluminum which is lighter than gal-alum.
Les, I know what you mean by different quality of manufactures. I have researched the company Im probably going to use, and looked closely at their trailers. I was going to get an 18 foot trailer, as that's really all I need, but a 20 foot trailer is only 100.00 more. Im not getting a ton of bells and whistles. (Im poor ) Im going for a 20 footer, 7 foot height, beaver tail, 18 foot of e-track (welded to frame) and the four standard D-rings are also welded to frame. , 2 non powered skylight/vents, 1 foot longer tongue, winch plate welded to frame in V area. and a standard V nose. It has plywood side walls and treated plywood floor. and I decided to get the ramp door, in their heavy duty version. Barn doors may be better sometimes, but for what this trailer is to be used for, the ramp door seems a better choice for it. The ceiling is also finished in white vinyl. And Im going with a bright yellow for the color. If it gets stolen I want the police to be able to pick it out of a sea of black and white trailers. And I have never been someone who wants to blend in. By going any color other than black or white the alumniumn skin is also upgraded to .010 thicker metal. I think it will work for me. Being a welder by trade, I looked at the quality of the welds. They were excellent. Thanks for the input everyone ...
Also make sure it has a triple tongue which is stronger. My trailer is 18 ft. long with 5 ft. v-nose, extra tall, power tongue jack, side access door, heavy duty ramp....$7200.00 at the factory. The quality of welds were excellent also.
The extra 5 ft. v-nose provides a lot of room up front and ensures you will not poke a hole in your RV. Easier backing up. I also had them weld in a winch plate under the floor located near the v-nose. The battery sits in front of the winch. Has a spare mounted on the wall located in the v-nose out of the way. It has 5K axles which is an over kill for my early cars. I had the tires up graded to a higher load rating (10 ply).
Will a Southern wide track fit those tracks???
Les, The trailer Im getting has a triple tongue and Im getting it a foot longer than standard. They pull better, and I should not destroy the trailer if Im pulling it with my car hauler. . Im going to install my own winch plate. I have talked to others who say 1/2 the time the plate is not where you finally end up wanting it. I have looked under the trailers and the center tongue will be an easy mount point. Willie, the E-tracks just mount at any width you decide you want them. I do not think there is any "perfect" spacing for them. A person just has to decide on the best placement for themselves. I talked to Freightliner Jim on the phone today. It seems we are using the same trailer manufacturer. He just used a different dealer. He is a satisfied customer of the Arising Industries Inc. trailers. I had pretty much settled on them myself as the better made product for the money. I pretty much agree with him on everything we talked about. The only difference of opinion is he likes the e-tracks on top of the floor and I want them set flush. His reason for not liking them flush is that the plywood floor is cut to fit around the tracks, and he says they are not totally , "dust proof" that way. I agree with him, but Im still going with them flush, and then I will caulk the seams myself, when I paint the floors. I have used grey "porch paint" on floors before and that stuff is very tough and wipes clean if you spill stuff on it. With everything Im having installed and the yellow paint (300.00 extra for yellow) the trailer is 6800.00 delivered to the dealer in Arkansas (about 60 miles from me) and also including sales tax. The only thing I forgot to have figured in the price was a spare tire. I hope to get him to throw it in, but if not I think the spare is 100.00 more .. from what I have been pricing I think that is a good price .. Jim, thanks for your input and suggestions and thanks to everyone else for their input and suggestions..
Good to talk with you as well.
If folks keep calling me " Freightliner Jim " I suppose I will have to turn in my F350 ....
Freighter Jim. Sorry about the missed name. With my memory these days Its a miracle I got it that close ..
I wish someone would invent a two way ramp door.I you have ever noticed some semi dump trailers have a tailgate that opens normal and also has hinges to swing to the side.My old 18' Haullmark had no D rings so when i mounted them i centered over the cross members and used long bolts and clips under the cross members.I know lots of trailers are better but like the Model T it got me in the hobby at a price i could afford.Bud in Wheeler,Mi.
I'm just kidding ya' - it just shows how popular " Freightliner " is - your eyes see one thing & your brain thinks another way ...
Aluminum commercial ramps ....
I have always used them in combination with barn doors.
A ramp door is what manufacturers push to their dealers & customers because they are easier to install - less labor involved.
In the real world - you load & unload on uneven surfaces - not always on smooth flat asphalt or concrete.
Daily use of a ramp door will quickly wear it out - they are expensive to maintain & replace.
Barn doors give your trailer versatility for cargo management.
Jim,I have always thought your trailer was built well esp'c with the side doors but people make mistakes with ramps.Nope,i did not say pros,just your do it once a year and alone people.I wonder if a door could be hinged on both bottom and top so people could suit their need's at the time??? Bud in Wheeler,Mi.