Part VII was getting too long. Link to previous thread below.
New engine for the saw rig (circled in red) - went to Maine and picked it up last weekend. Was a stationary power unit and came with a '27 firewall, a '27 radiator shell (pretty beat up) and a honeycomb radiator (which isn't that bad and I'm hoping can be saved - we'll see). Had to pull those off to get my engine lift into position and snatch it out of the back of my truck.
Ron, I have an idea - Instead of numbering each thread when the prior one gets too long, how about starting a monthly doodlebug thread, like the "what have you done in ---- month threads? I love seeing and reading about these doodlebugs and stationary adaptations!
Mark - that's a great idea and will definitely keep the thread to a manageable size. 2016 will be monthly.
I see the Ebay EZ Power PTO has moved up to $450, the reserve is now off, and the $650 Buy It Now is off the table. A little more than a day to go.
I had figured the reserve would have been met at $500, I guess it was a little lower.
Just don't see it fitting on any of mine - pulley shaft sticks out too far for a narrowed front end.
But, whenever I find a TT running gear for a yard vehicle, would love to have it for that.
What sort of brackets support that? I don't see any mention of brackets in the listing.
Ron, here is a link with the brackets being discussed.
Donnie- that was a great thread. Thank you for digging that up. Hard to tell from the pictures if the one currently listed has brackets. It does not appear to have the coupler.
WHo had an extra coupler a while back? I think they had made a couple?
Matt lindenderg had an add in the classifieds I bought one
Great work just like original I think they are still available
I hope I got his name right Jim
WOW, $679 the PTO goes for. I guess the sellers $650 buy it now price would have saved the winner a few dollars. Congratulations to the new owner whomever it may be. I hope it gets used and shown rather than put in a collection.
I was going to make a hail mary bid of $550, but I thought it would be best if I just went outside and did some work rather than get caught up in the moment and spend money I really didn't have.
Update (with some photos) on the T saw rig. The saw stand has been completely rebuilt using white oak. You can see in the pictures that rear main bearing caps had been used to mount the blade arbor (like a doodlebug, absolutely nothing was wasted when this rig was built) - these were fitted into the replacement wood, along with as much of the original hardware as could be salvaged. I'll finish the white oak in ebony - which will match nicely with the wheels.
The rig is made from a shortened T car frame, with another front cross-member added to the cut section and completed with two front end assemblies. It had (4) TT rear wheels that been refitted with front hubs and mounted to the spindles. Unfortunately, these were completely rotted away - absolutely nothing from them (with the exception of a few rim clamps and all the bearings) could be saved. Last winter, I refurbished 4 front wheels (that were only suitable for use on a doodlebug or something like this), rims and mounted 4 new tires. In order to get the saw rig under cover for the winter, I mounted these wheels last weekend. All the bearings used had been salvaged from the old wheels, cleaned with mineral spirits and repacked.
I don't think I recall the tongue from the Craigslist pictures last year, it is nice. The rig is already quite a turn around from the rotting pile you hauled home, lots of work left to do here but it will be pretty neat at shows.
Zac - the tongue is classic Depression-era farmer build, work of art.
Ron, if that rear wheel in the first picture is what you were referring to, I don't think it is a TT. The spokes don't look right. They look like they taper down from the center to the rim. May just be the picture though. That tongue looks very much like one I have, it is a factory made setup to convert the chassis to a wagon. I even have a rear axle with a stamped sheet metal cover for the torque tube opening. The Model T was truly "The Universal Car"! Dave
David - I think it's the pictures. Wheels were TT - was really disappointed that I couldn't piece a set together from the 4 of them for a future project, but felloes and rims were just too far gone (even for what I do).
Would love to see pictures of your wagon kit if you would post them!
Like Zac said, that looks like a huge improvement compared to what I remember it looking like from that ad also.
Looking good, keep up the good work.
I have been watering some leaves covering up some newer metal for pieces on my power unit. Its getting there, I suppose leaving it out for winter wouldn't hurt any. Hard to get a piece of new metal to catch up to 90 year old aged metal.
Eh, she's getting there. Weather will shut me down shortly. Have to keep her in an old run-in horse shed because there's no room in the garage. If she sees the show season next year, it will be a very late debut. This is what I started with - the seller said the next step for her was the scrapper if no one answered the CL ad. The blade guard and the fact that she was made out of a T(s), had me hooking up my flatbed within 5 minutes of getting off the phone with him.
All of your projects are looking great I took a day off from
Working on my shaw to go on a road trip I had some cash
Burning a hole in my pocket soooo!
So your the lucky buyer. Congrats and I am glad it went to someone who will appreciate it.
Looking forward to any updates as you progress.
Thanks Chad I am leaning toward homemade skis front and
20" truck wheels for the rear that could be a blast in winter
It's a little too fast for my likeing I think I will swap out the
High speed ruxtell for one of the low speeds I got in the mix
Should be fun building skis
Zac just bought a original set of skis that I personally would like to get the dimensions from. I was hoping he had the time to get the measurements by now (hint hint), but I know he is very busy.
I have my set of homemade ones I am restoring (see thread located elsewhere). I can get you those dimensions if you want. My biggest fear is will they work. The consensus is yes, but you never know until you can try them.
Chad I think your skis must have worked at most a little
Tweaking with balance front to rear (pivot point) or a deeper
Skagg on the bottom for turning but you may get lucky
And the won't need anything .
One thing I noticed watching video of snowmobile meets
Is that allot of them don't turn well.
I have thoughts of right and left levers on the e- brakes to
Assist on turns if needed how long are your skis?
I also think the original skis were heavy to assist in turning
What you think? Jim
Used the Klam Digah to pull the saw rig (overkill) up to the garage and prep the engine for pulling:
Ron, Looking good as always.
Jim, I would have to measure them again, but I think they are about 5 ft long. I'll get that for you later.
OT, things are going to be hard for me for a bit, my air compressor blew up yesterday. I have a bunch of parts for my various T projects that I can still do some work on, but this is a major set back for me.
Ron what size are those tires ten hundred twenties
You can probably pull the bend out of a river with that !
The old junkyard I was in today had three of those difrentials
That power the pulley for the saw glad you got it and are
Saving it nice job!
Chad sorry your compressor crapped out if you were closer
I have one you could borrow to keep you going.
That would be great to have the info on your skis no rush
Got plenty of stuff to do Jim
You have a pretty good eye; the rear tires on the Klam Digah are Goodyear 11.00R20s - tread was enhanced with the help of a chain saw. She has two 4-speed transmissions and the rear end out of a Diamond T cement truck. She's a monster and routinely outpulls production tractors.
The pulley on the saw rig is connected to a Model A rear end that has been radically narrowed. Only non-T component in the entire piece.
Ron your Klam digah reminds me of our doodlebug at home
When I was a kid my dad took a 1936 ford telephone truck
V-8 4spd shortened it put in a second trans made a plow
For the front (raised by hand with a long pipe for leverage
One of us boys drove and the other ran the plow.
Dam near flipped it over on myself one day trying to pull an
Old car with no wheels .summertime tire chains on the duals
Tow chain short hookup both transmissions in granny low
before I knew it the front end was three feet off the ground
And climbing fast bout crapped my pants when I pushed in
The clutch she came down with a bang! We called the hootnany
Sorry I haven't chimed in lately we have been having internet issues..
Jim, Congratulations on the purchase, it is good that you have the lower speed rear for the bug. The one under it right now is pretty nice for something else though, high speed and Ruckstell!
Chads skis were roughly 60" as he said, the real skis are too width is 8". I have been working on the skis I bought, I will try to get some images and measurements. (if you really want I could trace things on a big sheet of paper and mail it to you).
Yes, the skis are hard to turn, my bug's steering is re-geared with a 5:1 shaft and gears. I am not sure what I would think of 4:1 after the switch... turning is slow, not so much because of the skis but because you only want to strain the steering so much.
Contrary to my original thinking, you DO want the longer part of the ski to the front. The reason for the longer front is that it will help to climb and compact the snow. You may not want much of a skeg here or steering gets tough and the snow will fight back.
the real skis employ both a V shape (~8 degrees per side) and a skeg ~1/2x1/2. One of my original skis has a full skeg, the other has only a half length skeg... did it get ripped off? or was this a replacement that is updated? I suspect the latter, but it is arranged nicely and looks pretty official.
I am planning on painting the bottoms of my skis with Slip plate to help them slide along.
Thanks Zac I just couldn't pass up all that stuff I was a little
Disappointed with the cond. of some of it but whatshagonnado?😩 Thanks for the offer on the pattern for.
Original type skis but I think I am going with thrifty homemades
For now .are the skegs solid bar stock?
I have a 5:1 column I think I'll throw in it that is a lot of strain
On the steering .good place for a mustang power rack & pinion
Who said that ? Anyways it does make sense for the ski to
Be able to climb up on the deep snow speaking of which I am
Waiting for some Jim
I think my I-pad had a hiccup I have no idea what those numbers are in that last post? Jim
Apparently the front of the ski should want to climb so it will not load up with lots of snow on the top side or possibly dive down where you don't want it. When I made skis a few years ago I put them the other way figuring the long part to the rear would help them to straighten out and stay parallel. If you look at some of the later skis they had a spring arrangement to keep the front up and they are decidedly not centered so it was obviously a concern.
Yes, the skegs were solid bar stock -there are holes drilled at intervals where rivets are hammered flush for attachment. Plow bolts attached the skis to the wood (elevator bolts should work too).
The skis that I originally made had metal extend a fair length beyond the wood on top and one got bent up some how, a stump or rock I guess, so if you made skis like above you will have to have fairly heavy metal (I think my first ones were 10Ga(?))
There are a few pictures of those original home made skis here:
Based on the original skis I have made a form to press metal in, but I have not tested it yet I am concerned that I will not have enough power to crush the halves of the form, but we will see.
Jim, I took measurements last night of mine. They are about 64" total length and 6" wide. The spindle centerline is about 39.5" from the front. The skeg on the bottom of mine runs about 36" from the rear towards the front. The are made from 1/2" x 1/4" stock, with the 1/4" side being the thickness top to bottom. The metal for the ski is 6" wide 1/8" thick plate and is curved on the ends---make sure you curve them up enough on the front especially. Zac and I steam bent wood to fit the curves, it worked pretty good. We used 7/8" red oak. It had regular 3/4" wood on it before (we think white oak), the extra thickness I think will help.
The major assemblies on mine are bolted together, They made an A-frame using a wood wheel hub and brazing pipes and plates down to the skies. The very front of the skegs are brazed in too, no doubt to keep them in place. The rest of the skeg is bolted on. All the hardware is 10-32 slotted flat head screws (countersunk) with square nuts.
It is interesting to note that those skis on the pic above have the skeg running all the way up front. Mine was drilled for that leading me to believe they made them full length in the beginning then shortened them later on to the last two thirds of the length of the ski. Might be the same case with Zac's that the one has a shorter skeg as a replacement?
Chad thanks for all the info on the skis I will probably be
Experimenting with mine all winter I. Think I will use bolts
On all of the A frame Assy. So I can shift them forward
Or back .right now I am busy mounting a nice old schhool bus
Seat on it . That pile of wood ain't easy on the old butt.
It needs a muffler and 20" tires for the rear too.
I don't have the shaw finished and I am diving head first into
The doodlebug oh well that's me busy busy busy !
Jim, I know exactly what you are talking about diving right in and forgetting all else. I pretty much did that this year, now owning my 'bug just over a year. The thing is, they are so much fun, more than you can wildly dream of, and nothing has to be correct.
Ron and Zac's stuff is some of the best 'as kept originally built' stuff I have seen. I like to think mine follows more of a WWII era of build based on how and what it was built with, but I am not afraid to add some modern if needed, but I still try and hide it some and make it look old. What ever you do, it will be correct and not correct at the same time. And people seem to just be drawn towards these things. I love talking to others at shows about it when the questions start flying.
I totally get the changing of the "box". Mine was a deluxe model and had a tractor seat bolted to the box. My current seat is just a bench, still wooden, but I made it two passenger. I could easily add a cushion to it, however I do think I am going to redo the seat itself and make it a little different.
Now back to the skis, it seems that keeping the spindle about 2/3 back from the front is about right, and keeping the skeg about 2/3 of the rear is also correct. You can make it so you can move it around if you want, but I really feel there would be no need to as it follows the "rules" of successful designs.
Better get those skis done Jim, winter is knocking on your door this weekend.
I'm working feverishly at it Chad I had to swap the legs from
The modern high back seat that I didn't like to the older low
backed seat it looks better to me anyway.
I will add some side armrests to keep a body from sliding out.
You will get a laugh out of what I used for skis the wife calls
Me Mcgiver but actually I'm just a Cheap SOB who would
Rather spend a few days building something rather than buy
it .There is a method to my madness the money I save on
Fixing one project I can buy another one Jim
I know it wasn't unusually cold (34 degrees), but I decided to try out the lower radiator hose heater I installed last month. I haven't started the 'bug in about 3 weeks. I left the heater plugged in for about two hours, and she fired with ease. The lower part of the engine was still a little chilly, but the whole upper side where the coolant was, was luke warm. Even the intake had the chill taken off it. This will help a lot if it ever snows out so I can try the plow and skis out.
I also finished the last process of weathering the rest of the screws for the skis. Maybe before Christmas I can finish them.
I also picked up a used compressor, a smidge smaller than my old one that blew the motor a week ago, but it will get me through for now until I can get a bigger one permanently in place. So I am a little more on track again.
Working on the shaw and the doodlebug at.the same time
I mounted the battery box on the outside of the frame and a
Fordson tool box on the other on the shaw also put new wood
Inside the frame rails where the axel and rearend are.
And added a muffler. I had a loose rear outer wheel bearing
On the right pulled out a badly worn bearing and sleeve
If you could call it that the sleeve was made out of heavy tin
And was worn down to soup can thickness at first I didn't
Think there was one in it I had a heck of a time putting one
Back in. As for the bug the skis are almost done same with
The seat and truck tires and wheels for the rear
Update on the doodlebug the seat is finished and on.
The exhaust is built and on I had to relocate the battery box
It was under slung on the right side right in the way for muffler.
The TT wheels that came with it were scrap so I adapted
The TT rear hubs and drums to 750 x20 wheels and tires
From a divco milk truck I also picked up a nice set of tire chains for the rear. We have no snow yet so by the time l
Finish it we might have some.
Have a merry Christmas everyone Jim
Looking good Jim. I am sure you enjoy the Shaw, but you seem to like the 'bug ALOT. It is very addicting.
I obtained some tire chains based on the advice from Zac. So I too am prepared for the snow. I have about 3 hours left of work on the skis and they will be done---hopefully tomorrow.
Just happened on this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANTIQUE-MODEL-A-FORD-SKIS-WINTER-BUGGY-SKIS-METAL-VERY-R ARE-/161923157768?hash=item25b35f4f08%3Ag%3A%7EFkAAOSw8-tWaD9t&nma=true&si=RT5kg 9Y2f9Pt7kkzC1skuULw%252BmA%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
The auction ended a few hours ago, not sure if these were ever for a T. ski price might have been OK but shipping was sure rich.
Merry Christmas all.
And he is clearly reaching for a description in that ad too. The length is about right on them, they look to be of a decent design, but I already see that they fall short (literally) on the spindle mounting height. However, the mount area almost looks as if they need a set of snowmobile style spindles to actually work and that would provide the extra height as the distance needed from the spindle to the ground on a stock T is roughly 15".
My mounts were about 2" short for my doodlebug T and are about 4" short for the pickup truck T. I made spacers to raise the mount up for the doodlebug, I just wonder why they initially made them so short.
The price in that ebay ad of $100, plus the $150 in shipping is still a fair price, if you had nothing to start with. I personally have a little more than the ad start price in my ski's currently, and ALOT of hard work and some generosity from others for comparisons sake.
Finished the legs (frame) that is on the plow blade for the front of the 'bug. Just needing a little snow to try it out. I would still like to add bars that go from the chassis plow frame to the back axle for more support, but I don't intend to push a foot of snow either, just more of something to play with when there is a few inches.
I'd show some pics, but it was too dark out.
I just wanted to add this link for future reference of the Cultor Tractor so it doesn't get lost.
Oh yea! Trying out the plow tonight with the fresh snow. It worked really good. I definitely need to add the tire chains though. But with the '24 Buick auxiliary trans in low and Model T low with the low speed TT rear, it pushed the heavy wet snow with ease. I also think I need to extend the plow blade a little more on each side as I was driving over the side spill out of snow.
Another thing I got to find out being it was dark out, was I have been using the wrong timing setting. The pipe was glowing red, I tried the carb mixture and it didn't really help, pulled the advance all the way down and that helped get it back to normal. However that seemed weird as for the slow speed and loading the engine it would have required less timing. And I have no more advance to use unless I bend the timer rod.
All in all a fun experience, cant wait to do it again, maybe in the daylight next time to get some better pics and video. Happy New Year all!!
Congratulations!! Was freezing rain and sleet here all day - spent it cleaning up the engine for the saw rig and refurbishing a decayed steering column that matches a rotted low firewall and coil box I rebuilt for some future project.
Do you need chains or additional weight in the rear? Seems the chains would seat themselves between the lugs on the rear tires and add little for traction. Weight under your bench seat may help the bite in snow.
Think you're dead on in extending the plow. Simple moldboards would work.
Ron, I do have chains, I tried them on previously, I just procrastinated on getting them back on. Zac was right, when the tires get wet, they are just slippery even though they have aggressive pattern.
Weight seems to be fine other than that--the TT rear weighs a ton anyways which helps and the tires and wheels also are heavy, plus my fat A sitting over the back too.
I am just going to get some 16 gauge plate cut into strips and bolt them on the sides. There are already holes in the plow blade, probably for just doing this.
Next up, trying the skis---sorry Ron.
Ron, in a past life I used to work for some farmers around here. Sometimes helped plow snow and fed livestock in the winter. Chains on tractor tires would move around enough that they wouldn't seat in between the lugs. They really helped, both in snow and mud. Dave
Especially ring chains they really flail the mud and snow