Brought this back from Chickasha with me, finally getting caught up enough to work on it for a couple days. Thought it turned out pretty nice. For those of you who already know these early models of carbs, this is the Holley H-1 -- second version with the three screw top instead of the earlier two screw.
Notice the new nut on the bottom. This is the only way I have found to obtain correct new nuts -- a quarter of an inch cut off of a $165 bar of hex brass, threaded with a correct 1 x 24 tap and finished to match the look of the rest of the carb.
Thought you might like to see my version of the unique float arm and float these take.
Here is the earlier two screw version of the same carb.
Back to the shop!
Wonderful workmanship Stan! Very detail orientated .
Should probably also add that both of these were rebuilds and are not for sale.
Here was a recent find. These were used on the early Huppmobile and were trouble prone with all the dust and dirt they were exposed to so a lot of them were replaced with Kingston/Holley/whatever carbs. Hard to find now but run great when they are clean.
Beautiful work Stan, as always! Dave
I saw the thread title, and thought "I bet this will be one from Stan!" I was right. Very nice! Just as I suspected.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Uncle Stan, Is that my carb? Looks extraordinary!!
Stan. They look great. May I ask how you get the burnished shine look? Do you use a high speed wire wheel? I have glass-beaded my rebuilds in the past but your burnished shine looks better and is undoubtedly easier to clean.
Looks really nice, Stan.....and I bet it runs just as nice!
Yes, how do you clean them? I have a few bronze carbs I need to rebuild.
James: The secret is glass bead which I never change, it is almost just dust, lots of pressure; Ultrasonic cleaner with a mix of RCBS brass case cleaner and a couple secret ingredients like some denatured alcohol and a little lacquer thinner - keep it clean, change it often; Ultrasonic cleaner with RCBS Brass shine -- strong solution, change it often; Stainless Steel .006 wire wheels at 3450 rpm; a bunch of work with files and fine emery on the lathe and a final polish with .005 brass wire wheel. I do not "buff" anything. I don't like the look; it makes a mess and residue from the waxy binder.
Powder coat with a dark gray color I like for the steel parts.
Steve: See above
Thanks for the nice comments. Kevin, it is 40 degrees here today, I'll be doing some test runs and get it in the mail today.
What works of art!!! Thanks for sharing with us.
When I worked in a Musical instrument repair shop during my high school years ( many moons ago). We would put the brass instruments in a cyanide solution, wire brush it, than dip it in a brass "bright dip" solution. I can't find what we used on the web but there are other solutions out there.
Your carb work looks great. I always thought the Breeze was a busy little thing, for what it has to do! I have a copy of the manual for the Breeze carburetor, it's only 36 pages long...lots of adjustments! I have one on my 1910 Hupmobile, it's made to fit in the short leg of the "J" shaped manifold, with warm air drawn through the bottom. Flood it (I don't have the tickler, so just unscrew the needle valve cover bottom right in picture), start car, adjust wheel on top for mixture...and off we go!
Stan: The Breeze carburetor is looking great. Is that one mine? I imagine it is as there is probably not a great demand for them.
David: Nice view of the Breeze carb on your Hupp. What is that below the DU4 mag on your car? I don't remember anything like that on my '11.
Looking at it more closely, I guess that is the kill switch contact on the lower part of the DU4. I guess I do have that. It just looked a little different than I had remembered it. It has been a while since I took a look at it.
Steve, it is not yours. Yours is much nicer. I just bought a couple more Breeze carbs, this one was really nasty so I cleaned it up to see if it was all there and what it was like under the grime. It was better than I expected -- which is a real surprise since they are usually worse.
Yes, connection for wire to "mag off" kill switch, at that point I hadn't put in the wiring harness (two wires!), nor put in linkage to carb.