These new bolts extend a considerable distance past the nuts. Is there a non-aesthetic reason to shorten them?
What's the proper term for mashing the threads to keep the nut on? Are staking and peening synonymous? If not, what is the difference?
Looks like you are using bolts made for the rear wheels. Cut them off and peen the ends or use a center punch and stake them by denting between the nut and bolt, This will distort the threads and prevent them from working loose.
I usually shorten them.
Peening is when you hammer over, (mushroom), the end, kind of like riveting. Staking is when you center punch the end of the bolt, near the thread, to deform the thread. Or, when you place the center punch just at the corner between the bolt & nut and deform the bolt thread and some of the nut as well. In this case, peening is better.
If we're talking about the front wheels, a few drops blue Loctite will help keep things secure—and the front nuts and bolts are accessible enough to check for tightness every now and then. _I had once peened the heck out of the bolts on my rear wheels and then was presented with the need to remove them. _That necessitated the purchase and use of an angle grinder to vaporize the fused nuts and bolts. _I won't make that mistake again. _Loctite works just fine.
Peened over bolts on front hub.
I can only say what I'd do (and what do I know?) but I'd just stake them, because to peen them over, you'd have to cut them off anyway, right? Unless some protrude out further than others, in which case they'd look a lot better if they were all the same length. And if you have to cut most of them off to obtain equal length, ya' might just as well peen them I'd think,....FWIW,.....harold
I would do what Bob Coiro suggests. Loctite works great and you can tighten up the bolts as the wood shrinks. In addition, much easier to remove a bolt in case it twists off during tightening.
The bottom line...do what Steve Jeff would like!
The part sellers sell the length that works for the rear ones, which are 1/4" longer than original front bolts. You need to lop off 1/4" from each one on front hubs using a high speed cutoff tool, then peen them over. Rear ones come out about the right length, so you just have to peen them.
You should have no more than one thread exposed before you pen the bolts.
I know you like to things right. I should buy new right front wheel bolts and replace this ones, then peen them over.
Not arguing with you Dan but just bashing the ends of too long bolts won't do a thing towards keeping them from loosening. At least not as the picture shows. Cut them flush with the nuts and center punch in 2 or 3 spots around the circle that's left. (the end of the bolt). That will lock it in place. What you show in your picture will let the back out simply because there's clean thread for them to back out on.
LOCTITE is your friend (& staking) !
The bolts I've gotten from Bob's in the past have been correct.
Measured from under the head:
Rear hub bolts are 2+1/8" Long
Front hub bolts are 2" Long
If everything with your wheel, hub, spokes, and the nut you are using is correct, there will be maybe a little less than 1/8" inch of thread that you are supposed to peen over just enough to keep the nut from backing off. Several years later if you need to tighten them up a bit, you will be able to. Then just peen them a little more. If you use any thread-locker (locktite, etc) you will not be able to tighten them at a later date...
The parts vendors also do have a tendency to get the front and rear hub bolts mixed up.
Some hobbyists may have issues if they are using the incorrect nuts (from the hardware store or their hardware pile) which can present the appearance of a problem with the bolts...
T wood wheel nuts are thinner than a standard nut and have an oversize hex.
Blue Loctite is rather easy to "tighten" if need be - if one doesn't "stake" simply back off a few threads & re-apply. They also produce a locking product to apply after tightening a fastener.
Steve, I would shorten them and peen them over. It is a piece of cake to re-tension them at a later date if any get loose. Just run them up and give them another whack with the hammer to re-peen them in the new position.
Allan from down under.
I would do, and have done, as Allan B. said. Works great. Staking is OK, but in this case I prefer peening, if it is done correctly. Just banging on the end of the threads may work, but peening is much like riveting. The end of the bolt needs to be worked down all around, like a rivet, not just banged down in a spot or two. It can still be tightened later if needed. JMHO. Dave
This is how they need to be. They will never come loose if they are installed like this.
Is it true to say that it's only the rear wheel bolts that tend to loosen in time? I used Locktite on my 26 wooden spoked wheels and never had an issue with the front or rear coming loose. Others have had the rear loosen after 12 months after they purchased new wooden wheels. The front set were fine. The general thought was the torque going through the rear hubs was the cause more so than the wood shrinking.
Was there an issue back in the day with nuts coming loose?
Everybody checks the front hubs regularly but not the rear I'm sure. Locktite and staking is my preference
Alan in Western Australia
I have had the front bolts loosen the same way. Peen them over, no more trouble.
Royce's advice about cutting off the excess until only 1 thread is left exposed is golden. If more material is left, the bolts will never peen properly and may back off some.
Factory way....shortened to last thread or two and then peened over flush.....original wheels in these photos.
Yup,That's what they did but if Henry had Locktight, i'll bet that's what he would have used! Bud.