Front Fender brackets

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Front Fender brackets
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Garry Potter on Monday, December 14, 2015 - 11:03 am:

I am building a 1914 speedster and have bought the fenders from Rootlieb.
Are the fender brackets that attach to the frame and also hold the headlight fork the same for all the brass cars. Or did they change from year to year.
I am having trouble in lining up all the parts of bracket, fender, and still clearing the headlight forks.
Please advise me if there are differences. Maybe I have the wrong parts or they need bending
Thanks
Garry Potter
705 487-1788
garrypotter@rogers.com


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Monday, December 14, 2015 - 11:26 am:

Brass era fender irons are just that, fender irons. The brackets are the pieces that are riveted to the fenders. The later Iron T fender irons are different.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Monday, December 14, 2015 - 01:49 pm:

Gary,
There are many variables here, post a picture of your situation and then maybe we can help. Larry, of course, is correct regarding the terminology!
The Irons are very similar, but earlier irons have a straight side to the recess that the forks go into. (think I have that right, I'm working from old memories here!!)
And the forks were offset, I believe, do you have them mounted correctly?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Garry Potter on Monday, December 14, 2015 - 05:50 pm:

Waiting to receive the proper underside special fender bolts from Langs and then will try again
Thanks for the input
Garry


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Monday, December 14, 2015 - 06:17 pm:

There are I think four variations from 1908 into 1913. From 1913 through July 1916 they were alike. What David D says works here mostly. They were flatter where the headlamp bolted in, but they were also shorter and hold the fender a little lower than the later ones. For a short while (late 1916 & '17) they were taller for the later fender, but still flatter where the headlamp bolted in. I have seen several like this, but only a few, and don't know just how long they were made. Somewhere around '17 or '18, they changed where the headlamp bolted in to reduce the amount of machining required in the manufacturing. The top flat area remained rough cast through the 1925 model year.
Any 1917 through '25 fender iron can be used on a brass era car with a little finagling. Slightly re-bending the top bend to line up and level the fender, and filing and/or grinding the flat for the earlier headlamp mounts does it for most brass era Ts. A windshield brace rod finagle may be needed for some.
There were some minor changes in the lower portion of the bracket, between the frame and headlamp. Mostly minor angle changes and how heavy the casting is. But most people will not notice those. If you are an anal-retentive cheapskate? They could be built up a bit using J B Weld (I mix steel wool in with it, wrap lightly with electrical tape to squeeze it into near shape, then file after fully hardened)
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Monday, December 14, 2015 - 10:00 pm:

Garry, headlight forks will have a squared flat on the side of the mounting stalk where they bolt onto the fender iron. The correct iron will have a corresponding flat to engage with the headlight fork so it does not turn when being bolted up.

Later fender irons have two tapered lands either side of the fork where the lights bolt to the irons. The lights have corresponding tapers, also to stop the lights turning as they are done up.

If you grind off the inner taper on a later iron, and square up the outer one so that the fork will fit, then you are good to go. After that, you will probably have to make adjustments as you go to set the fenders at the same height. I would not do this until you have the car on its wheels. Then you have a reference point to work with.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.


Posting is currently disabled in this topic. Contact your discussion moderator for more information.
Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration