Over the years I've seen lots of posts about how easy it is with various methods. So far, for me, it's always a big hassle. Is there a Z tool for this?
Steve ; A hammer and a bigger hammer will do the job. one on each side of the pitman arm ,there where the arm is around the shaft.
There probably is a Z-tool...but I always use a 3-jaw Buffalo puller. I've ground the 'finger nails' on the links to get in as tight as possible, and I use rubber bands to sort of hold it together until I get the first good turn on the jacking screw...
Bang it with a hammer each time you walk past...take another 1/2 turn every now and then...
"Tink" you hear the 3-jaw as it falls to the floor with the arm now sitting on the steering shaft loose...
Just get after it and do it. Usually a big wop or two.
I'm with you Steve....not much space for a puller. I normally use two hammers backing up one side while smacking the other. Don't like doing it that way....but, it seems to work the best.
I have thought about welding on a couple of ears for a puller....But, then I would be modifying another item causing more flack.
It looks daunting, but it isn't. _Pull the cotter-pin and unscrew the castle-nut, then get a heavy hammer (I used a rubber-headed mallet) and about a 16-inch piece of wooden dowel (like the kind of dowel you hang your clothes on in your closet). _Put one end of the dowel to the bottom of the steering shaft and smack the other end of the dowel with the hammer. _
Of course, you'll have already removed the steering wheel and steering gear case cap._You'll also need the steering column bracket firmly affixed to the frame.
This time the army motor pool method worked: Hit it with a bigger hammer.
Steve you took the words right outa my keyboard...use a "BFH"!!
Big Forceful Hammer
heat the arm at the shaft till just before red hot, let it cool for five min. will tap right off with hammer, Bob
I hold a block of steel on one side of the arm after loosening the nut. Then hit the other side of the arm with a heavy brass hammer. It will pop right off.
I use a 2 arm puller and tighten it up as much as I can. I then heat the arm with a propane torch or, if it is particularly stubborn, a acetylene torch and when it gets hot enough it will just pop right off so I keep the nut on loose and work from the side so I don't wind up with the puller in my face. Never had one that wouldn't pop right off with enough heat. I also apply a very thin coating of anti-sieze compound on the taper before I put the arm back on and find that it will come off easily with just the puller next time.
I used a bearing puller I borrowed for George Clipner...I think he bought it at PEP Boys. Worked like a charm!
I'd Be surprised if you couldn't get it off with a bearing puller. A little judicious heat might help as well.
On the 1914 speedster I don;t think I have ever removed the arm, well when I changed the gears to 5:1 I did but not for all the engine work in the past 2-3 years. I leave the column and arm attached to the firewall but lift the firewall a few inches so I can get the motor arms out.
On later metal firewalls you can remove the motor, once the starter is removed, past the steering column. It takes a little playing but I have one in the barn right now which I have removed the motor and the steering is still in place.
So why Steve?
I figure since I'm taking it apart I might as well put together a proper 1915 steering column and install that while I'm at it. Maybe I'll change to a correct DS housing too.
The hammer/heavy bucking bar method works very well on iron pipe fittings too. Dave
Oh come on Steve thats a toy. Try a class 8 truck
someday..sam we work on trucks don't cha know
While we have a great photo of the steering lower bracket that Steve has posted....is it true to say that this bracket is secured UNDER the chassis rail
on all T's 09-27???
Alan: Yes, except for some homebuilt speedsters where fitting was easier on the top of the lower frame flange when the column was lowered - but that's not the way Ford built it.
Samuel, my late friend/mentor was a heavy equipment mechanic. He showed me that trick many years ago on a drag link from a Peterbilt that the owner had worked on for hours trying to get it apart with pullers. My friend had it laying on a pickup tailgate and hit it twice with a three pound hammer backed up with a sledge. Popped right off after the second hit. The owner just shook his head. Dave
This type puller works swell while the arm and shaft are on or off the car
(Message edited by Ken_Todd on December 16, 2015)
I always wondered if one of these would work. It might fit even with a little grinding. (Tie Rod Separator)
I would not recommend using a "Tie Rod Separator" as it would apply force to the gear head and possibly do some damage.
Steve, I've got the tool that Ken Todd posted, work's like a charm so I purchased it. Already loaned it to Martin Vowell for his . Worked great.
Were did you buy it at? I want to get one for the next time I have to do the job. That looks like a good tool box item. Is it strong enough for a "tough one" since it looks kinda thin at the end?
The tool is OEM 27175 Tie Rod End Remover. I bought mine from NAPA after reading about it on this list.
I had a very stubborn arm which had resisted every trick I could dream up or read about here. With this tool, the arm popped off after apply enough murphy to it. This tool did the job with equal ease on two other arms since.
John, yeah it's a pretty tough little tool. My pitman arm was really on there because I had tried other methods before George loaned me that little goodie. I think he got it at PEP Boys.
Honestly I have to give credit to "LOCO LARRY" A year ago somebody was having a prob here in SoKal.
And he posted the pics of Larry gettin' it off and posted a tool pic. Way to go Larry Blare !!
Yer a Wurlitzer !!
New shaft, new Pitman arm, new key.
A three jaw puller always works for me, but I did install the Pitman arm with Copper EZE.