27 touring sitting in my garage, not run in 2 mos. I started it up, and 3-5 minutes it shut down.car has been great, for 5 years! Car has NEVER run on mag, battery only. I install new battery,motor will not start. I put in 2 gals fresh gas, car will not start. Motor spins over very good. I looked at carb, all seems ok. timer and wires must be ok, because I get good spark. I suppose next is to look at valves and springs under side cover.any thoughts? Merry Christmas to all.
If it was running fine 2 months ago, started up and ran OK then just stopped, I'm thinking it's more likely to be something simple. Try wiggling the ignition switch a little. Check for loose wire to coil box. That sort of thing.
Did you turn on the gas valve? If it is on, and you choke the carburetor while cranking over, do you get some gas dripping from the air intake? You should get a drip if you choked for more than a turn of the crankshaft. It sounds like a fuel starvation problem to me. Maybe the float valve is stuck closed or some dirt got in the line. Anyway that's what I think if it ran for a little while and then stopped. Don't think it is a valve problem because it wouldn't effect all the cylinders. Most likely fuel or ignition problem. Are you running with coils? If so, when you turn on the ignition switch you should hear them buzz. With the spark lever all the way retarded (up) turn the key on and spin the crank slowly. You should hear two coils buzz per rotation of the crankshaft. If so you are getting ignition and since it was running and suddenly stopped most likely the coils and spark plugs are OK.
I get good spark, fuel line is new as of today, fresh gas,fresh plugs. Puzzled?
Do you have the stock needle valve and seat or one of those that uses a ball to shut off the gas? If a ball, it probably needs cleaned out. Can you take the bowl off and see what kind of gas flow you get. Probably not getting any or not very much.
One trouble shooting trick I have used: Shoot some starting fluid in the carb... Try to start it. If it goes chuff, chuff, chuff & dies, you have a fuel delivery problem & not an ignition problem.
And if it's a needle valve it could be hung up in the seat. Tap the side of the carb a few raps. It'll drop and you'll get gas into the float bowl and it should run again.
What Bill Harris said. My 21 ran just fine until I let it sit a month or so. I did the starting fluid thing, ruled out the ignition problem added more gas, got it started, but then it would only run a little bit and die. Something is clogged up somewhere more than likely.
I have changed out needle and seat, fuel pours out new fuel line .i do not use the ball type needle no seat. It does run momentarily with a shot of starter fluid. I'm going to enjoy the grandkids and their children today, and not let this problem ruin our Christmas. Merry Christmas to all.
If it kicks with starter fluid I'd guess fuel delivery is the problem. Choke open?
Sounds like its starving for fuel if it will run on starting fluid. I have had this happen to another t I had a few years ago. I also have model A Ford that I am finishing up that did this and it was trash in the fuel bulb. Once I got the tank cleaned and sealed and I haven't had this problem again. That's just my experience.
The only thing between the end of the fuel line (which by the way you said was open) and the float bowl is the needle and seat. Is, the float bowl filling with fuel?
I've had fuel starvation from three different things. One was dirt, trash, or water coming from the tank. Another was a bit of loose packing from one of the gas line fittings clogging the carburetor. And, of course, when a car runs OK for awhile then dies it may be that the valve needle is stuck and fails to drop when the float goes down. That last one is sometimes cured by just whacking the carb with a wrench. In any case, it's best to have the tank at least half full to supply plenty of pressure in the line. If it gets down to a gallon or less, it might as well be empty.
This happens to me often with my Model T's and A's. I drain the carb float bowls and the sediment bowls and they start right up. We can only get corn gas here.
Pretty much all gas nowadays is "corn gas" as it all has at least 10% ethanol made from corn. It slowly coats the interior of everything from the tank to the lines to the carb and of course needle valve. No wonder things start sticking. Draining the bowls for a long layup helps. If it weren't such a pain, we should do it after every run. FWIW I put StaBil ethanol treatment in all my tanks and FWIW I don't seem to have any problems. Only other real answer is if you can find ethanol free fuel, and can afford it, to use it.