My brother and I are trying to set the brass rivets that hold the quadrant to the steering column tube on my 1911 T. The problem we are having is the brass rivet gets hard before we can fully set and form it. We have annealed the rivet before we try to set it but this does not seem to help.
Has anyone done this before? If so, how did you do it?
Are you using a hammer or an air gun? The proper way to buck a rivet is to hold the bucking bar against the end of the rivet and tapping the head with the hammer or give it a little blast with the air impact gun. I have concave anvils for the air gun for different sizes rivet heads.
They do not need to be annealed. Just shoot them with a rivet gun. Done.
It takes two people. One to hold the column, the other to shoot the rivets.
You need two of the 1/8" (or 5/32" if the holes are oversized) rivet sets. Clamp one rivet set in the vise. Set the manufactured head against that set. Then shoot the tail with a rivet gun.
The rivets need to be cut to length. If the holes in the column and other parts are tight then you need a rivet that extends past the metal about 2 X diameter prior to shooting. Done right you end up with both the manufactured head and the shop head looking identical when completed.
Royce - "Clamp one rivet set in the vice."
You're assuming the steering column is out of the car. I don't think so, but Jim, you need to say if that is the case.
Royce,....I'm thinking that most often, when someone notices that the rivets need tightening, they don't immediately remove the steering column from the car, but rather, need to know how to "set" the loose rivets easily without removal of the steering column. So, is that possible?
It's important to me to form the rivet head to the shape of the original before installation. There are far too many T's out there with way too big rivets holding that quadrant on.