Just got my 1922 T roadster home. Inspection reveals missing rear brakes and brake rods. The car is otherwise quite original. I like the idea of rocky mountain brakes, but love my hassler springs.I understand can't use rocky mountains with Hasslers on the car. My drive ends on highway 101 and is quite steep! I'm looking for suggestions and opinions for rear brake remedy.
You could use new small drum AC type rear brakes. The Hassler mount should clear those small drum external brakes.
Dans' recommendation of the AC brakes is a very good one for your situation. Note in the lower photo how the brake band is anchored at the rear center. This design provides equal braking when moving both forward and backward. If you have a steep driveway that end/begins at a highway then obviously it'll be an uphill event in one direction and a downhill event in the other direction. Having brakes that hold equally well in both directions would be an invaluable advantage.
Just my $0.02 worth.
I have recommended the small drum AC brakes for years, and known Larry Sidmore since before he took over their manufacture. I knew one of the previous manufacturers of them also. Both are good model T people. I had a set on one of my cars and really liked them a lot.
A major advantage for the small drum AC brakes is that they work forwards AND backwards! The modern Rocky Mountain (also patterned after an AC design, not the original Rocky Mountain Brakes) have been modified for an advantage in the forward direction. The disadvantage with the RM is that they don't work backwards hardly at all!!! Not a good thing if you need to stop or hold the car headed up a hill forward, or anywhere in reverse. And you say you live on a hill?
The only real downsides I know of to the small drum AC brakes is that it takes a little more pressure to stop the car, but they are more than adequate! The other thing is that they do wear a little faster. I actually know of a few people that have had to have them relined during the life of their T. Not a big problem for most of us.
With either the AC or RM brakes, you have many operational options. They can be kept on the brake handle, used as a backup for the service brake. PRACTICE USING IT so that it will be easy and natural when (not if) you need it. You can choose to set the outside brakes up as the service brake. Lots of people do this and like it. I prefer to keep two independent systems whether the service brake is left in the transmission or on the outside brakes. The AC can be a much improved emergency brake, or the service brake. I think I got a bit redundant there. But that should be okay. Redundancy is good in safety systems.
Drive carefully, and enjoy! W2
Peter, all of the above information is very good, but, don't forget about the original internal emergency drum brakes. I would also install them with the lined brake shoes. You can't have too much braking on a T! JMHO. Dave
While you're back at that end of the car, I want to be sure you're aware of this: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG79.html.
And if you're new to T's: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html
My '15 came the same way - the brake shoes and rods missing. It did have a set of original AC brakes though, attached to the hand brake. I first acquired a set of rods and shoes, and restored the factory brakes. Then I put together a foot-brake linkage for the AC's similar to the original that you see in vintage ads:
Here's where the surprise happened. Moving the linkage from under the drive shaft to over it, it now collided with the Ruckstell shifter rod. I was planning a left-hand shifter for the car anyway, just not all on the same day.
The final thing to keep in mind is that small-drum AC brakes fade very quickly. Normal stop-and-go driving allows the thin drum to cool, but on a long downhill run, you need to fall back to standard Model T braking technique: pumping the brake and alternating pedals to keep both the AC's and the transmission drums from overheating.