My 14 would crank on 3 or 4 pulls 30 degrees or 100. I replaced the contact strip in the bottom of the coil box with an original one but never tried to start it. Well I tried to start it a week or so later and nothing. I took coils in and out turned the switch on and off and then hooked it to a battery and nothing. Last night I took the box off and tested what was going on with the switch. Turns out the brass nuts and contacts were too tarnished to make contact in one place where the electricity has to go from the wire, through a nut and to the brass contact. I took the switch (the kind that is on front of the coil box) completely apart and sanded all the parts shiny and it works perfect. It really had me puzzled and tired from a lot of cranking. I made a handy tester, cut the wires on an old cell phone charger and strip them. Put alligator clips on the wires.Plug it in, attach alligator clip to a wire or contact then the other to a test light end. Then you can use the test light to test if current is flowing from point a to b. I know you can do that with a multimeter but I don't know where mine went.
The hard part is getting the car into the house next to the phone.
I know, I know. I'm just having a little fun being silly.
Corey, a tester photo would help here.
Can You Hear Me Now????
3M "Scotchbrite" cloth (generally found in the paint department) is really a great product for burnishing up contacts and polishing up electrical connections. The bonus of this product is that any dust or shards from it are not conductive so you don't have to worry about leaving leakage paths inside of things when you use it to clean up electrical connection surfaces. For awhile Ford actually used a rivet to hold the bottom buss bar to the wood in the coil box and then soldered the wire into the hollow center of the rivet and this was NOT one of Ford's better ideas. The rivet gets loose and also corrodes and you end up with a nice connection between the wire and rivet but NO connection at all between the rivet and the bottom buss bar in the coil box. Better to pass the wire through the rivet and then solder the wire itself to the buss bar after cleaning up a nice shiny spot for it to reside. Only use Rosin Core solder for this purpose.
And where's Dennis when we need him? Good job there Steve!
Here is a photo of the solution to soldering John describes. The FunProjects coilbox wood replacement kit recommends this procedure.
One additional point; Model T ignition coils commonly have the problem John describes with the two piece rivets used as box contacts.
Ron the Coilman