Hi everyone, I am building a depot hack on a complete '27 chassis. I have a '27 scuttle available, but I think any depot hacks would have been built on a 'light commercial' chassis (as Ford called it) and therefore with an under seat tank and a flat firewall. I have a suitable firewall and want to know if anyone has done this or has any photos of a similar model to go by. I have a set of plans for the timber from Wagon Works, but these are supposed to be for up to '25. The rest of the body I can make and fit but I need info on the best arrangement for the front, ie firewall, dash and steering column mounting. Does a '27 column fit, or do I need to use an earlier - up to '25 - type? Can I still use the '27 hood too? Any help appreciated, and if possible photos to email.
Chris,first,Mike Perigo has built more depot hacks than anybody I know and I'm fairly certain he will advise you if you ask. I will say,if the firewall you have is a steel one you can use it with about any steering column. You will have to use a 25-27 steering block on the frame so holes will mount up. I would advise using a 1/4 inch masonite spacer between the wood firewall and the steel firewall,as it prevents the hood from scratching the wood every time you open it.Good luck.
Here are some pics of my 27 with 27 steel fire wall. With this sent up you need to space the wood and steel fire wall to get the hood to fit. I did not build this car. Joe.
Here are some photos of one of the hacks I built. Joe's hack has a firewall from a 26/27 roadster or touring which is the way I wanted to go. I used a 23-25 high firewall and basically encased it in wood. I used everything but a chain saw . As Jack mentioned, I moved the firewall out from the wooden front, so I could close the hood without damaging the wood. You can see the build-out from the inside. I did have trouble with the steering column. This hack was a learning experience, but I do like the look of it. It's loosely patterned after a Martin-Parry body style.
I can send more pics if you want.
Good luck with your project!
Joe & Mike; Nice jobs. I'm a total klutz when I try to work with wood. I haven't found a way to weld it or use a rose-bud to bend it.
Thanks, Jim, for the kind words. I really liked that body style because with the side curtains it was fairly weather proof.
The only thing I need to avoid in the future is overbuilding. I used red oak, and the body tends to be very heavy. Much of the wood is really too thick compared to the originals.
Next time, did I say that, I'm going for lighter!!
Man!! I'am drooling wishing I had one of ours back. I like them when the cowl from a tudor or a coupe are used. From the scrap bin of course.
Thanks for all the info so far. I am in Australia, so not so many hacks around to take measurements, hance my decision to go with Wagon Works plans. The drawings make sense, and the finished car looks like photos I have seen of the original 'Suburban' type, which is why I wanted to use a flat dash panel and firewall if possible. Anyone got one of these? Or gone the Wagon Works route? I will post back with progress.
Joe, not wanting to change the subject and/or sound like a dummy, but what carb is on that car?
actually, I meant to ask what kind of manifolds and carb is on it
It's a Kingston vaporizer: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/11083.html
It seems like Holley vaporizers are much more common?
Or was the Kingston system even harder than Holley's to keep in good running order?
Chris, HERE is some detailed pictures of our '26 Depot Hack that we did a few years ago.
A couple of things to note/add to what has been said above...
Originally the firewall as you made reference to was kinda unique unto it's own. With the help of Phil Mino who supplied the following photos to me, I realized it does take a special firewall to be fairly accurate or authentic if you choose to follow the thought process that your car would have been built from a "light commercial chassis". I was able to find a N.O.S. firewall to use and have since seen a couple of very nice firewalls at swap meets so they are still out there.
Jack and others have given you good advice with regard to spacing the hood outward however I found that if the proper leather hood corner protectors were used and after doing the following, this was not an issue on my car. I spent quite a bit of time using an English Wheel to "fit" my hood so it had the correct curvature and layed down on the cowl & radiator lacing properly in the front and the back. What I found was there is a huge difference when the hood gaps were set where they were supposed to be as originally manufactured. If the cowl is set too high in relation to the rad. shell, this compounds the interference issue quite substantially. Using the proper cowl likely has something to do with this also. Do understand that I am not saying this will eliminate all of the 'rub' from the hood but it was hardly an issue when I did all of the above. Hope this helps a little more and good luck with your project.
The 26/27 hood caused more of a problem for me than the early hood on my last hack. If you are careful and have hood corner protectors, you will have no problem. Brent is correct in that proper hood alignment will make all the difference.
I've seen Joe K's car at the annual All Ford car show in Louisville a few times. Its a beauty! I need to bring a T next time.
Search for this thread "Kinda' late notice.........". It has a picture of our depot Hack built from plans supplied by Wagon works. It's the York 803 depot hack. I was very pleased how well it turned out. Good luck and if you need any help just let me know.
I have made a few depot hack bodies myself and I know one thing you should be aware of. The hood lenght on the 26-27 is about 1.25 inches longer(as I recall)than the 1925 hood.Of course this pushes everything back that far on the body.On the bodies I made(and my father before me),this distance was cut off the frontof the body so the rear entry doors would still swing open without hitting the rear fenders.The depot hack kit we sold worked well on Ts up to 1925, but the 1926-27 chassis had some dimentional challenges with the different sheet metal and the higher and wider rear crossmember.You will want to use a dashboard thatfits up to the backside of your firewall with a 1/8 or 1/4 inch hood separator in between.You will want to make sure the seat-steering wheel fit is OK.You want to be sure any rear side doors will open OK with those 26-27 fenders in place. And that rear crossmember hump sticks up higher on the 26-27 so it might have to stick out above the rear floor somehow.The Wagon Works plans do make a nice body,but you very well may run into these problems if you are usins the 26-27 chassis and sheet metal. Check this stuff out before you get too involved. Switching to 1925 sheetmetal would likly solve a host of problems although it probably isn't as easy where you are. Ray.
Ray the carb is a Simmons Hot-Plate, I'm taking a NOS one to Richmond swap meet
The vaporizer carburetor set-up on Joe's depot hack is a Kingston B-1 Gasifier. The parts for that are shown in the Ford Service Bulletins. I think some late 1926 T's used this. Kingston also made a similiar vaporizer called the Regenerator which I think was sold as an accessory for aftermarket.
Thanks for all the helpful hints so far, I have a choice of an earlier flat firewall, a complete '27 cowl (not ideal for the right look) and another '27 firewall, that was cut out of a complete scuttle/cowl assembly. Unfortunately this was cut to make way for a big V8 as the complete rolling chassis I bought had been a '27 Coupe until a hot rodder bought it just to use the body. That is how I got it, and an ideal base for a 'depot hack'.
Anyway, what I am trying to find specifically are shots of firewall/dash assemblies and how best to fix one to the other. I may try to use my cut-up '27 panel but need to work out how to clean up the edges and make it a nice fit to the wood. It may not be original, but I would like the finished car to look as if it could be!
Any more info, or close-up shots of how others have done it appreciated.